One Source, Real Estate Inspection: Happy Holiday's Home Safety Tips - One Source Real...

One Source, Real Estate Inspection: Happy Holiday's Home Safety Tips - One Source Real...: Happy Holiday's Home Safety Tips 11/19/2014 0 Comments   Holiday Home Safety Tips   The winter holidays are a time for celeb...

Happy Holiday's Home Safety Tips - One Source Real Estate Inspection

Happy Holiday's Home Safety Tips

11/19/2014

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Holiday Home Safety Tips  

The winter holidays are a time for celebration, and that means more cooking, home decorating, entertaining, and an increased risk of fire and accidents. One Source Real Estate Inspection recommends that you follow these guidelines to help make your holiday season safer and more enjoyable.
     


Holiday Lighting

• Use caution with holiday decorations and, whenever possible, choose those made with flame-resistant, flame-retardant and non-combustible materials.
• Keep candles away from decorations and other combustible materials, and do not use candles to decorate Christmas trees.
• Carefully inspect new and previously used light strings, and replace damaged items before plugging lights in. If you have any questions about electrical safety, ask an InterNACHI inspector during your next scheduled inspection. Do not overload extension cords.
• Don't mount lights in any way that can damage the cord's wire insulation.  To hold lights in place, string them through hooks or insulated staples--don't use nails or tacks. Never pull or tug lights to remove them.
• Keep children and pets away from light strings and electrical decorations.
• Never use electric lights on a metallic tree. The tree can become charged with electricity from faulty lights, and a person touching a branch could be electrocuted.
• Before using lights outdoors, check labels to be sure they have been certified for outdoor use.  
• Make sure all the bulbs work and that there are no frayed wires, broken sockets or loose connections.
• Plug all outdoor electric decorations into circuits with ground-fault circuit interrupters to avoid potential shocks.
• Turn off all lights when you go to bed or leave the house. The lights could short out and start a fire.

Decorations

• Use only non-combustible and flame-resistant materials to trim a tree. Choose tinsel and artificial icicles of plastic and non-leaded metals.
• Never use lighted candles on a tree or near other evergreens. Always use non-flammable holders, and place candles where they will not be knocked down.
• In homes with small children, take special care to avoid decorations that are sharp and breakable, and keep trimmings with small removable parts out of the reach of children.
• Avoid trimmings that resemble candy and food that may tempt a young child to put them in his mouth.

Holiday Entertaining

• Unattended cooking is the leading cause of home fires in the U.S.  When cooking for holiday visitors, remember to keep an eye on the range.
• Provide plenty of large, deep ashtrays, and check them frequently. Cigarette butts can smolder in the trash and cause a fire, so completely douse cigarette butts with water before discarding.
• Keep matches and lighters up high, out of sight and reach of children (preferably in a locked cabinet).
• Test your smoke alarms, and let guests know what your fire escape plan is.

Trees

• When purchasing an artificial tree, look for the label "fire-resistant."
• When purchasing a live tree, check for freshness. A fresh tree is green, needles are hard to pull from branches, and when bent between your fingers, needles do not break.
• When setting up a tree at home, place it away from fireplaces, radiators and portable heaters. Place the tree out of the way of traffic and do not block doorways.
• Cut a few inches off the trunk of your tree to expose the fresh wood. This allows for better water absorption and will help to keep your tree from drying out and becoming a fire hazard.
• Be sure to keep the stand filled with water, because heated rooms can dry live trees out rapidly.
• Make sure the base is steady so the tree won't tip over easily.

  

Fireplaces

• Before lighting any fire, remove all greens, boughs, papers and other decorations from fireplace area. Check to see that the flue is open.
• Use care with "fire salts," which produce colored flames when thrown on wood fires. They contain heavy metals that can cause intense gastrointestinal irritation and vomiting if eaten.
• Do not burn wrapping papers in the fireplace. A flash fire may result as wrappings ignite suddenly and burn intensely.

 

Toys and Ornaments

• Purchase appropriate toys for the appropriate age. Some toys designed for older children might be dangerous for younger children.
• Electric toys should be UL/FM approved.
• Toys with sharp points, sharp edges, strings, cords, and parts small enough to be swallowed should not be given to small children.
• Place older ornaments and decorations that might be painted with lead paint out of the reach of small children and pets. 

Children and Pets

• Poinsettias are known to be poisonous to humans and animals, so keep them well out of reach, or avoid having them.
• Keep decorations at least 6 inches above the child’s reach.
• Avoid using tinsel. It can fall on the floor and a curious child or pet may eat it. This can cause anything from mild distress to death.
• Keep any ribbons on gifts and tree ornaments shorter than 7 inches. A child could wrap a longer strand of ribbon around their neck and choke.
• Avoid mittens with strings for children. The string can get tangled around the child’s neck and cause them to choke. It is easier to replace a mitten than a child.
• Watch children and pets around space heaters or the fireplace. Do not leave a child or pet unattended.
• Store scissors and any sharp objects that you use to wrap presents out of your child’s reach.
• Inspect wrapped gifts for small decorations, such as candy canes, gingerbread men, and mistletoe berries, all of which are choking hazards.

Security 

• Use your home burglar alarm system.
• If you plan to travel for the holidays, don’t discuss your plans with strangers. 
• Have a trusted friend or neighbor to keep an eye on your home.

One Source Real Estate Inspection your InterNACHI INSPECTOR WISHES YOU
A SAFE & JOYOUS HOLIDAY SEASON!

 

One Source, Real Estate Inspection: Water Heater Expansion Tanks

One Source, Real Estate Inspection: Water Heater Expansion Tanks: Water Heater Expansion Tanks by Nestor Garcia, One Source Real Estate Inspection   What is an expansion tank?   An expansion t...

Water Heater Expansion Tanks

by Nestor Garcia, One Source Real Estate Inspection

 

What is an expansion tank?

 

An expansion tank is a metal tank connected to a building’s water heating appliance designed to accommodate fluctuations in the volume of a building’s hot water supply system. These fluctuations occur because water expands in volume as it gets hot and loses volume as it cools.

 

Expanding water volume in a closed system can create dangerously high water pressure. As water is forced into the tank by expansion, it compresses air contained inside of a rubber bladder. Air is used as a cushion because it exerts less force on its container than water, which cannot be compressed.

 

The function of this bladder is to prevent air from becoming absorbed into the water, a process that could cause the expansion tank to lose its ability to act as a sort of shock absorber. If, over time, the bladder begins to leak some air, a Schrader valve, identical to the fill valve found on bicycle and car tires, can be used to add more air.

 

What does it look like, inside and out?

 

Expansion tanks are considerably smaller than water heaters, usually holding about two gallons in residential systems, although tank sizes vary in relation to the water volume of the hot water supply system they serve. The design pressure for which a tank is rated is marked on a label on the tank, commonly 150 pounds per square inch (PSI) for a residential tank.

 

InterNACHI inspectors should check that tanks are positioned high enough above the water heater that water will easily drain back down into the water heater tank.  It is best positioned near the water heater and may be installed vertically, either above or below the horizontal supply pipe, but can also be positioned horizontally. Horizontally-hung tanks will need additional support to reduce the stress on the copper piping.

 

The expansion tank should be inspected for proper location and support, corrosion and leakage. Although many jurisdictions now require an expansion tank to be installed at the same time that a water heater is installed, an expansion tank has not always been required in the past and may still not be required in some regions.

Not a Substitute for a Temperature Pressure Relief (TPR) Valve

If water heater controls fail and pressure in the system exceeds 150 PSI, or temperature exceeds 210° F, a temperature and pressure relief valve (TPR valve) installed on the side of the water heater tank will open, safely discharging water from the system. TPR valves are capable of reducing water pressure at a rate greater than the capacity of the water heater to raise it, thus eliminating the possibility that water will become superheated (greater than 212 degrees) and pose a serious threat. The importance of this valve cannot be overstated, and it is crucial that it is examined periodically for rust or corrosion, and the release lever should be exercised monthly by the homeowner, not by the inspector.

 

If a TPR valve fails to operate when it’s needed, the result can be catastrophic. Pressure will continue to build in the water heater tank as water temperature rises past the boiling point and water becomes superheated. Eventually, pressure in the tank will exceed the ability of the weakest part of the water heater to contain it and the tank will rupture, exposing the superheated water to air and causing an instantaneous and explosive expansion of steam. This situation can propel the water heater like a rocket or make it explode like a bomb, causing extensive property damage, personal injury or death.

 

In summary, the expansion tank should be inspected for proper location and support, corrosion and leakage. Although not required in every jurisdiction, they are quite crucial to the successful and safe operation of residential potable water systems.

 

 One Source Real Estate Inspection @ www.onesourceinspection.com.

One Source, Real Estate Inspection: Air Sampling for Mold Inspections

One Source, Real Estate Inspection: Air Sampling for Mold Inspections: Air Sampling for Mold Inspections by Nestor Garcia, One Source Real Estate Inspection.     Taking air samples during a mold inspect...

Air Sampling for Mold Inspections

by Nestor Garcia, One Source Real Estate Inspection.

 

 

Taking air samples during a mold inspection is important for several reasons.  Mold spores are not visible to the naked eye, and the types of mold present can often be determined through laboratory analysis of the air samples.  Having samples analyzed can also help provide evidence of the scope and severity of a mold problem, as well as aid in assessing human exposure to mold spores.  After remediation, new samples are typically taken to help ensure that all mold has been successfully removed.

 

Air samples can be used to gather data about mold spores present in the interior of a house.  These samples are taken by using a pump that forces air through a collection device which catches mold spores.  The sample is then sent off to a laboratory to be analyzed.  InterNACHI inspectors who perform mold inspections often utilize air sampling to collect data, which has become commonplace.

Air-Sampling Devices

There are several types of devices used to collect air samples that can be analyzed for mold.  Some common examples include:

• impaction samplers that use a calibrated air pump to impact spores onto a prepared microscope slide;
• cassette samplers, which may be of the disposable or one-time-use type, and also employ forced air to impact spores onto a collection media; and
• airborne-particle collectors that trap spores directly on a culture dish.  These may be utilized to identify the species of mold that has been found.

When and When Not to Sample

Samples are generally best taken if visual, non-invasive examination reveals apparent mold growth or conditions that could lead to growth, such as moisture intrusion or water damage.  Musty odors can also be a sign of mold growth.  If no sign of mold or potential for mold is apparent, one or two indoor air samples can still be taken, at the discretion of the inspector and client, in the most lived-in room of the house and at the HVAC unit.  

Outdoor air samples are also typically taken as a control for comparison to indoor samples.  Two samples -- one from the windward side and one from the leeward side of the house -- will help provide a more complete picture of what is in the air that may be entering the house through windows and doors at times when they are open.  It is best to take the outdoor samples as close together in time as possible to the indoor samples that they will be compared with.

InterNACHI inspectors should avoid taking samples if a resident of the house is under a physician’s care for mold exposure, if there is litigation in progress related to mold on the premises, or if the inspector’s health or safety could be compromised in obtaining the sample.  Residential home inspectors also should not take samples in a commercial or public building.

Where to Sample and Ideal Conditions

In any areas of a house suspected or confirmed to have mold growth, air samples can be taken to help verify and gather more information.  Moisture intrusion, water damage, musty odors, apparent mold growth, or conditions conducive to mold growth are all common reasons to gather an air sample.  Samples should be taken near the center of the room, with the collection device positioned 3 to 6 feet off the ground.

Ten minutes is an adequate amount of time for the air pump to run while taking samples, but this can be reduced to around five minutes if there is a concern that air movement from a lot of indoor activity could alter the results.  The sampling time can be reduced further if there is an active source of dust, such as from ongoing construction.

Sampling should take place in livable spaces within the house under closed conditions in order to help stabilize the air and allow for reproducibility of the sampling and measurement.  While the sample is being collected, windows and exterior doors should be kept shut other than for normal entry and exit from the home.  It is best to have air exchangers (other than a furnace) or fans that exchange indoor-outdoor air switched off during sampling.

Weather conditions can be an important factor in gathering accurate data. Severe thunderstorms or unusually high winds can affect the sampling and analysis results.  High winds or rapid changes in barometric pressure increase the difference in air pressure between the interior and exterior, which can increase the variability of airborne mold-spore concentration.  Large differences in air pressure between the interior and exterior can cause more airborne spores to be sucked inside, skewing the results of the sample. 

Difficulties and Practicality of Air Sampling

It is helpful to think of air sampling as just one tool in the tool belt when inspecting a house for mold problems.  An air sample alone is not enough to confirm or refute the existence of a problem, and such testing needs to be accompanied by visual inspection and other methods of data collection, such as a surface sample.  Indoor airborne spore levels can vary according to several factors, and this can lead to skewed results if care is not taken to set up the sampling correctly.  Also, since only spores are collected with an air sample and may actually be damaged during collection, identification of the mold type can be more difficult than with a sample collected with tape or a cultured sample.

Air samples are good for use as a background screen to ensure that there isn’t a large source of mold not yet found somewhere in a home.  This is because they can detect long chains of spores that are still intact.  These chains normally break apart quickly as they travel through the air, so a sample that reveals intact chains can indicate that there is mold nearby, possibly undiscovered during other tests and visual examination. 

In summary, when taken under controlled conditions and properly analyzed, air samples for mold are helpful in comparing relative particle levels between a problem and a control area.  They can also be crucial for comparing particle levels and air quality in an area before and after mold remediation.  

 

Air Sampling for Mold Inspections @ www.onesourceinspection.com. 

One Source, Real Estate Inspection: Sewer Gases in the Home - www.onesourceinspection....

One Source, Real Estate Inspection: Sewer Gases in the Home - www.onesourceinspection....: Sewer Gases in the Home by Nick Gromicko     Decomposing waste materials in public and private sewer and septic systems create se...

Sewer Gases in the Home - www.onesourceinspection.com.

Sewer Gases in the Home

by Nestor Garcia, One Source Real Estate Inspection 

Decomposing waste materials in public and private sewer and septic systems create sewer gases. Methane is the largest single constituent of sewer gas, which includes an assortment of toxic and non-toxic gases, such as hydrogen sulfide, carbon dioxide, ammonia, nitrogen oxides, and sulfur dioxide. Improperly disposed gasoline and mineral spirits may also contribute to sewer gases.

Sewer gases pose the following risks to building occupants:

• hydrogen sulfide poisoning. Hydrogen sulfide is an explosive and extremely toxic gas that can impair several different systems in the body at once, most notably the nervous system. So potent that it can be smelled at 0.47 parts per billion by half of human adults, the gas will begin to cause eye irritation at 10 parts per million (ppm) and eye damage at 50 ppm. Other low-level symptoms include nervousness, dizziness, nausea, headache and drowsiness. Exposure to higher concentrations can lead to pulmonary edema, and still higher levels (800 to 1,000 ppm) will cause almost immediate loss of consciousness and death;  
• asphyxiation. When sewer gases diffuse into household air, they gradually displace oxygen and suffocate occupants. The effects of oxygen deficiency include headache, nausea, dizziness and unconsciousness. At very low oxygen concentrations (less than 12%), unconsciousness and death will occur quickly and without warning. Oxygen will be at its lowest concentrations in the basement, which is where heavy sewer gases, principally methane, are likely to collect;
• fire or explosion. Methane and hydrogen sulfide are explosive components of sewer gas. Vapors from improperly disposed fuel can further increase the risk of fire or explosion; and
• odor. Hydrogen sulfide is responsible for sewer gas’s characteristic rotten-egg smell, which can be overbearing even at extremely low concentrations. The gas’s odor is a safeguard, however, because it alerts building occupants to the leak long before they’re in any serious danger. It is important to note that at roughly 100 ppm, the olfactory nerve becomes paralyzed, removing the victim’s sense of smell and, subsequently, their awareness of the danger. Another "warning smell" comes from ammonia, which will sear the nostrils and progressively irritate the mucous membranes and respiratory tract. This gas, unlike hydrogen sulfide, is sufficiently irritating that building occupants are likely to vacate before its concentration rises to toxic levels.

If you suspect that any odors might be caused by sewer gases, contact a qualified plumber. Be sure to mention the smell to an InterNACHI inspector during your next scheduled inspection.

The design of the plumbing system relies on a connection between household fixtures and the sewer system, which is why a great deal of effort is spent to ensure that waste products -- and the gases that result from their decay -- flow in one direction.

The following failures in the plumbing system may allow sewer gases to flow back into a building:

• dried-out piping and plumbing fixtures. In most cases, intruding sewer gases are caused by a loss of the water barrier where traps have gone dry. Especially in dry weather, infrequent use of a toilet, shower or floor drain can allow for rapid evaporation and entry of sewer gases into the living space. Particularly common culprits are floor drains placed in locations where they are likely to dry out, such as near water heaters or furnaces, as well as seldom-used drains, such as those in janitor’s closets, workshop areas and mechanical rooms. Homeowners can maintain the water barriers by using the fixtures more often or by pouring water down the drains. Automatic drain-trap primers may also be installed so that a small amount of water is periodically delivered;
• cracks in the plumbing drain line or vent pipes. A water leak typically accompanies a crack in the drain line, but vent pipe cracks are more difficult to diagnose, and they can vent a large quantity of sewer gases into the home. Plumbers can locate these cracks by using a special machine that generates artificial smoke and pumps it into the plumbing drain system. The smoke pressurizes the system and exits through any cracks or loose fittings;
• diffusion from a leach field septic system;
• through cracks in a building’s foundation; and
• plumbing vents installed too close to air intakes or windows in homes equipped with HVAC air handlers that admit outside air for ventilation. Wind and air flow around the building can allow for sewer gas to enter the building even where plumbing vents and air intakes are appropriately placed. Homeowners can add vent pipe filters or alter the height of vents to alleviate the problem.

In summary, the intrusion of sewer gases into the living space should be discovered and fixed before occupants suffer ill health.

One Source, Real Estate Inspection: Inspecting Solar Water Heaters - One Source Real E...

One Source, Real Estate Inspection: Inspecting Solar Water Heaters - One Source Real E...: Inspecting Solar Water Heaters  by Nick Gromicko     Solar water heaters are a cost-effective way to heat water in almost any clim...

Inspecting Solar Water Heaters - One Source Real Estate Inspection your certified home inspector.

Inspecting Solar Water Heaters 

by Nick Gromicko

 

 

Solar water heaters are a cost-effective way to heat water in almost any climate. Water heated in this manner can be used for myriad home, business and industrial applications.

 

Solar Thermal Worldwide

While solar thermal systems have only recently become popular in the United States, they have been in use since as early as the 1890s. Israel began pioneering work in the 1950s in response to fuel shortages and, today, solar water heating is exploited by 85% of that country's population. In this way, Israel saves an astonishing 2 million barrels of oil per year – 3% of their total energy consumption – making it the highest user, per capita, of solar energy of any form worldwide.

Spain was the second country (after Israel) to require the installation of solar thermal systems. In China, systems are much cheaper than similar models sold in Western nations, and an estimated 30 million Chinese households make use of them. Solar thermal technologies have seen tremendous growth in Australia, Japan, and many other countries that receive abundant sunshine. 

Components and Operation

Unlike photovoltaic solar panels, solar water heaters generate no electricity; rather, they directly heat water through sunlight. These systems are generally composed of solar thermal collectors, a water storage tank, interconnecting pipes, and a fluid to move the heat from the collector to the tank.

Solar thermal collectors are fastened to a roof or a wall that faces the sun, heating fluid that can be pumped (in an active system), or driven by convection (in a passive system). Collectors are made from a glass-topped insulated box with a flat solar absorber made of sheet metal attached to copper pipes, and then painted black, or a set of metal tubes surrounded by an evacuated (near-vacuum) glass cylinder. Solar water heating systems are usually supplemented by conventional backup systems for cloudy days and times of increased demand.

Types

 

There are three types of solar thermal systems used for residential applications:

• flat-plate collector. These are weatherproofed boxes that contain a dark absorber plate beneath one (or more) glass or plastic cover. Solar pool heating systems use unglazed flat-plate collectors, which lack a cover or enclosure.
• integral collector-storage or batch systems. These feature black tanks or tubes in an insulated, glazed box. Cold water first passes through the solar collector, which warms the water before it is sent to a conventional backup water heater, which then fully heats the water. Batch systems should be installed only in milder climates because the exterior pipes can freeze in cold weather; and
• evacuated-tube solar collectors. These systems feature rows of parallel, transparent glass tubes, each containing a glass outer tube and metal absorber tube attached to a fin. The fin's coating absorbs solar energy but prevents radiative heat loss. While occasionally used in residences, this design is more common in commercial applications.

Inspection and Maintenance

Solar water heaters require periodic inspections and routine maintenance to ensure efficient operation. Inspectors can recommend that the homeowner or a qualified solar technician perform certain tasks. The owner’s manual should also be consulted for maintenance and inspection tips. The following components should be inspected:

• dampers. If equipped, ensure that the dampers open and close properly;
• mineral buildup. If circulated in the system, mineral-rich water known as hard water can lead to mineral buildup in the pipes. This can be removed by adding an acidic de-scaling solution to the water every few years;
• seals and glazing. Make sure the seals are in good condition, and check for cracks in the glazing. Plastic glazing that has become excessively yellowed may need to be replaced;
• shading. Both new construction and vegetation can reduce the performance of the collector, so check to make sure that neither of these things interferes with the path of sunlight. While inspectors can check for shade once, they can recommend to their clients to check the collector three times (annually) – morning, noon and afternoon – to be on the safe side;
• piping, duct and wiring insulation. Look for degradation or other damage to these components;
• plumbing, ductwork and wiring connections. Check duct connections and seals to make sure there are no leaks where pipes connect. Ducts should be sealed with a mastic (plant resin) compound. Wiring connections should not be loose;
• pressure-relief valve. If equipped, ensure the valve is not stuck open or closed;
• pumps or blowers. The distribution pumps or blowers should activate when the sun is shining on the collectors after mid-morning. Listen to verify that they have turned on. If you cannot hear anything, then it’s likely that either the pumps/blowers or the controller has malfunctioned;
• roof penetrations. Roof penetrations require flashing and sealant, which should be in good condition;
• soiling. Soiled or dirty collectors will perform weakly. Homeowners in dry, dusty environments may have to clean their collectors periodically;
• storage tanks. Check storage tanks for leaks, cracks, rust and other signs of damage; and 
• support structures. If the collector has a support structure, make sure all nuts, bolts and other connections are tight.

In summary, solar water heaters heat water by using sunlight, but, just as with conventional water heaters, they require some maintenance to ensure optimum performance.

Schedule your Home Inspection online @ www.onesourceinspection.com

From Inspecting Solar Water Heaters - InterNACHI http://www.nachi.org/solar-water-heaters.htm#ixzz35JBUrmZ6

One Source, Real Estate Inspection: Barbeque Safety - One Source Real Estate Inspectio...

One Source, Real Estate Inspection: Barbeque Safety - One Source Real Estate Inspectio...: Barbeque Safety by Nick Gromicko With barbeque season already here, homeowners should heed the following safety precautions in or...

Barbeque Safety - One Source Real Estate Inspection @ www.onesourceinspection.com

Barbeque Safety

by Nick Gromicko

With barbeque season already here, homeowners should heed the following safety precautions in order to keep their families and property safe.

• Propane grills present an enormous fire hazard, as the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) is aware of more than 500 fires that result annually from their misuse or malfunction. The following precautions are recommended specifically when using propane grills:
  • Store propane tanks outdoors and never near the grill or any other heat source. In addition, never store or transport them in your car’s trunk.
  • Make sure to completely turn off the gas after you have finished, or when you are changing the tank. Even a small gas leak can cause a deadly explosion. 
  • Check for damage to a tank before refilling it, and only buy propane from reputable suppliers.
  • Never use a propane barbecue grill on a terrace, balcony or roof, as this is dangerous and illegal.
  • No more than two 20-pound propane tanks are allowed on the property of a one- or two-family home.
  • To inspect for a leak, spray a soapy solution over the connections and watch for bubbles. If you see evidence of a leak, reconnect the components and try again. If bubbles persist, replace the leaking parts before using the grill.
  • Make sure connections are secure before turning on the gas, especially if the grill hasn’t been used in months. The most dangerous time to use a propane grill is at the beginning of the barbeque season.
  • Ignite a propane grill with the lid open, not closed. Propane can accumulate beneath a closed lid and explode.
  • When finished, turn off the gas first, and then the controls. This way, residual gas in the pipe will be used up.

• Charcoal grills pose a serious poisoning threat due to the venting of carbon monoxide (CO). The CPSC estimates that 20 people die annually from accidentally ingesting CO from charcoal grills.  These grills can also be a potential fire hazard. Follow these precautions when using charcoal grills:
  • Never use a charcoal grill indoors, even if the area is ventilated. CO is colorless and odorless, and you will not know you are in danger until it is too late.
  • Use only barbeque starter fluid to start the grill, and don’t add the fluid to an open flame. It is possible for the flame to follow the fluid’s path back to the container as you're holding it.
  • Let the fluid soak into the coals for a minute before igniting them to allow explosive vapors to dissipate.
  • Charcoal grills are permitted on terraces and balconies only if there is at least 10 feet of clearance from the building, and a water source immediately nearby, such as a hose (or 4 gallons of water).
  • Be careful not to spill any fluid on yourself, and stand back when igniting the grill. Keep the charcoal lighter fluid container at a safe distance from the grill.
  • When cleaning the grill, dispose of the ashes in a metal container with a tight lid, and add water. Do not remove the ashes until they have fully cooled.
  • Fill the base of the grill with charcoal to a depth of no more than 2 inches.

• Electric grills are probably safer than propane and charcoal grills, but safety precautions need to be used with them as well. Follow these tips when using electric grills:
  • Do not use lighter fluid or any other combustible materials. 
  • When using an extension cord, make sure it is rated for the amperage required by the grill. The cord should be unplugged when not in use, and out of a busy foot path to prevent tripping.
  • As always, follow the manufacturer's instructions.

Safety Recommendations for General Grill Use

• Always make sure that the grill is used in a safe place, where kids and pets won't touch or bump into it. Keep in mind that the grill will still be hot after you finish cooking, and anyone coming into contact with it could be burned.
• If you use a grill lighter, make sure you don't leave it lying around where children can reach it. They will quickly learn how to use it.
• Never leave the grill unattended, as this is generally when accidents happen.
• Keep a fire extinguisher or garden hose nearby.
• Ensure that the grill is completely cooled before moving it or placing it back in storage.
• Ensure that the grill is only used on a flat surface that cannot burn, and well away from any shed, trees or shrubs.
• Clean out the grease and other debris in the grill periodically. Be sure to look for rust or other signs of deterioration.
• Don't wear loose clothing that might catch fire while you're cooking.
• Use long-handled barbecue tools and flame-resistant oven mitts.
• Keep alcoholic beverages away from the grill; they are flammable!

In summary, homeowners should exercise caution when using any kind of grill, as they can harm life and property in numerous ways. 

One Source Real Estate Inspection your local certified professional home inspector @ www.onesourceinspection.com. (24hr online request home inspection)

From Barbeque Safety - Int'l Association of Certified Home Inspectors (InterNACHI) http://www.nachi.org/barbeque-safety.htm#ixzz310TdAog2

Your Monthly Maintenance Minute Lawn Care - One Source Real Estate Inspection

Your Monthly Maintenance Minute

Lawn Care

• May is the month to start your weed control. If you pull small weeds you will not get big weeds. Weeds can ruin the look of any lawn or garden. Now is the time to apply a pre-emergent herbicide to gardens and beds. Pull weeds and spade the soil before applying a pre-emergent, because once the chemical is in the ground, it works longer if the soil is left undisturbed. Always pull weeds when the soil is moist, as it is easier to get the roots. Get in the habit of pulling a few weeds after every rain.

• As long as the weather remains cool, you can continue mowing your lawn short (about 2"). Mow often, it is stressful to the plant to remove more than a third of the blade when cutting. Keep your lawn mower blades sharp, this also will reduce stress on the grass plants. Continue your fertilization program, lawns should be fed four times a year.
  
  1. After you've mowed for the first time
  2. Late May or early June before the temps hit 90
  3. Late August
  4. Late September or early October

Building Cavities Used as Supply or Return Ducts - One Source Real Estate Inspection your certified home inspector @ www.onesourceinspection.com

Building Cavities Used as Supply or Return Ducts

by Nick Gromicko and Ben Gromicko

Nearly all building codes restrict the use of cavity spaces as supply ducts. However, it has been common practice to use cavity spaces as return-air pathways. Building cavities used as return-air plenums is one of the leading causes of duct leakage in homes today. Inspectors can learn how air leakage from ductwork may cause home energy loss, increase utility bills, lower comfort levels, and make the HVAC system less efficient. 

 

Still commonly used is the panned floor joist. Using floor joists as return ducts by panning can cause leakage because negative pressure in the cavity will draw air from the outside into the cavity through the construction joints of the rim area at the end of the joist cavity.

The illustration above shows a floor joist cavity used as a return-air duct by nailing material, such as gypsum board, sheet metal, foil insulation or OSB, to the bottom of the floor joists. There are manufacturers that advertise “insulating” panning sheet products that aid in this practice; however, using panned floor joists as an HVAC air pathway is highly discouraged because air leakage will be very difficult, if not impossible, to prevent.

Some builders create pan joists by attaching a solid panning sheet material to the bottom of a floor joist to create a return-air pathway. Using panned joists is not the best practice because the return-air pathways cannot be air-sealed properly. 

Wall Cavities

Cavities (or interstitial spaces) within walls are also sometimes used as supply- or return-air pathways. These cavities often create a connection of inside air with outside air from an attic or crawlspace. It is very difficult to make such cavity spaces airtight. When cavity spaces are used as return-air pathways or supply-air ducts, a few issues will arise.

Because cavity spaces are leaky, building pressure imbalances across the building envelope will occur, driving air infiltration into the building. A cavity space used as a return-air pathway will pull pollutants into the building from unknown sources. Another issue with using cavity spaces as return-air pathways is fire safety. Building materials, such as wood products, do not meet the flame- and smoke-spread criteria as do approved duct materials. Using cavities as return or supply ducts is not a fire hazard in itself, but it will encourage a fire to spread throughout the building. In humid climates, a cavity space used as a return-air pathway will pull humid air into the cavity space, possibly encouraging mold growth or the deterioration of building materials.

Other common framing cavities used as return-air pathways or plenums are air-handler platforms, open-floor truss cavities, and dropped ceilings. Open-floor trusses used as return-air plenums can draw air from any place connected to that floor. Air-handler platforms used as return-air plenums can draw air from vented attics and crawlspaces through other connected framing cavities. While none of these spaces makes an acceptable air pathway on its own, some building cavities, such as floor joists, can make acceptable duct chases to contain an insulated, air-sealed, metal, or flex supply or return duct.

How to Use Building Cavities as Duct Chases for Supply and Return Pathways

1. The builder must plan the duct layout at the design stage. Floor joist cavities, dropped-ceiling soffits, or other building cavities that will be used as duct chases should be indicated. Required duct sizes using ACCA Manual D (ACCA 2009) must be calculated. The cavity spaces must be free of obstructions and large enough to hold the duct plus insulation.

 Floor joist cavities can make acceptable duct chases for insulated, air-sealed metal, flex, or fiberboard ducts. See the illustration by the U.S. Department of Energy below.
2. Only approved duct materials, such as galvanized steel, aluminum, fiberglass duct board, and flexible duct, that meet local code smoke- and flame-spread criteria must be used. 
3. All supply- and return-duct connections should be sealed with mastic or approved tape.
4. Because ductwork in cavity spaces is likely to be inaccessible, the duct system for airtightness should be tested with a duct-blaster test before installing the drywall.

Duct Distribution Quality Installation

Building cavities used as supply or return ducts should be avoided because of the difficulty of properly air sealing and insulating them.

If building cavities are used, insulation should be installed without misalignments, compressions, gaps, or voids in all cavities used for ducts. If non-rigid insulation is used, a rigid air barrier or other supporting material should be installed to hold insulation in place. All seams, gaps and holes of the air barrier should be sealed with caulk or foam.

According to the U.S. Department of Energy's ENERGY STAR program, if building cavities are used as supply and return ducts, then:

• Supply ducts in an unconditioned attic must have insulation equal to or greater than R-8.
• Supply ducts in an unconditioned attic must have insulation equal to or greater than R-6.
• All other supply ducts and all return ducts in unconditioned spaces must have insulation equal to or greater than R-6.
• Total rater-measured duct leakage must be equal to or less than 8 CFM25 per 100 square feet of conditioned area.
• Rater-measured duct leakage to the exterior must be equal to or less than 4 CFM25 per 100 square feet of conditioned floor area.
• Duct leakage shall be determined and documented by a rater using RESNET-approved testing protocol only after all components of the system have been installed (e.g., air handler and register grilles). Leakage limits shall be assessed on a per-system (rather than per-home) basis.
• For homes that have 1,200 square feet or less of conditioned floor area, measured duct leakage to the outdoors shall be equal to or less than 5 CFM25 per 100 square feet of conditioned floor area. Testing of duct leakage to the outside can be waived if all ducts and air-handler equipment are located within the home’s air and thermal barriers, and envelope leakage has been tested to be less than or equal to half of the Prescriptive Path infiltration limit for the Climate Zone where the home is to be built. Alternatively, testing of duct leakage to the outside can be waived if total duct leakage is equal to or less than 4 CFM25 per 100 square feet of conditioned floor area, or equal to or less than 5 CFM25 per 100 square feet of conditioned floor area for homes that have less than 1,200 square feet of conditioned floor area.

Duct Installation Tips

ENERGY STAR requires that all ducts in exterior walls must be within the air barrier as well as the thermal boundary. It is important for the framer and HVAC contractor to coordinate on the location of a return duct. This allows for proper spacing of the floor or roof structure for installation of the return. If installing supply ducts within the walls, verify that the duct is capable of outputting the necessary air flow. Typically, only double-wall assemblies will have enough depth to allow for proper insulation and duct size. If installing return ducts using the floor or ceiling structure, ENERGY STAR recommends sealing both the exterior and the interior of all return boxes to prevent air leakage.

2009 IECC

Section 403.2.3 Building cavities (Mandatory). Building framing cavities cannot be used as supply ducts. Section 403.2.1 Insulation (Prescriptive). Supply ducts in attics are insulated to a minimum of R-8. All other ducts in unconditioned spaces or outside the building envelope are insulated to at least R-6.

2009 IRC

Section M1601.1.1 Above-ground duct systems. Stud wall cavities and spaces between solid floor joists cannot be used as supply-air plenums.

2012 IECC

Section R403.2.3 Building cavities (Mandatory). Building framing cavities cannot be used as supply ducts or plenums. Section R403.2.1 Insulation (Prescriptive). Supply ducts in attics are insulated to a minimum of R-8. All other ducts in unconditioned spaces or outside the building envelope are insulated to at least R-6.

2012 IRC

Section M1601.1.1 Above-ground duct systems. Stud-wall cavities and spaces between solid floor joists cannot be used as supply-air plenums. Stud-wall cavities in building envelope exterior walls cannot be used as air plenums.

 

Here's a joist cavity being used as a supply duct.

Here's a joist cavity with a disconnected duct. It has dropped down from the floor.

 

Here's the interior of an insulated duct.

 

Here's the interior of a joist cavity being used as a supply duct.

Here's a joist cavity being used as the main return duct. This is also the location of the air filter.

This is a panned floor joist cavity being used as supply duct.

 

Drainpipes should not pass through ductwork. 

 

This ceiling register was part of a return duct that used the floor joist cavity above.

 

This is a panned floor joist cavity being used as a return duct.

 

Here are two joist cavities above the central I-beam being used as part of a main supply duct to the second floor.

Here's a floor joist cavity being used as a return duct.

 

Here's a floor joist cavity being used as a return duct. The rest of the duct was never installed and connected to the HVAC system.

Here's a floor joist cavity being used as a supply duct.

Summary

Minimizing air leakage from ductwork can help reduce home energy loss, lower utility bills, increase comfort levels, and make the HVAC system operate more efficiently. Recognized and acceptable duct materials should be used for all HVAC airways. Acceptable duct materials include galvanized steel, aluminum, fiberglass duct board, and flexible duct. The duct layout should be considered in the initial framing design stage. Building cavity space alone should not be used as a supply- or return-air pathway. For the cavity to serve as a supply- or return-air pathway, it must contain a sealed, insulated duct made of approved duct materials. A duct-blaster test can be used to detect duct leakage and to confirm proper air flow at each duct supply outlet.

From Building Cavities Used as Supply or Return Ducts - InterNACHI http://www.nachi.org/building-cavities-supply-return-ducts.htm#ixzz30PKc8vRS

Non-Conforming Bedrooms

by Nick Gromicko

 

 

A room must conform to specific requirements in order for it to be considered a bedroom or sleeping room. The reason for this law is that the inhabitant must be able to quickly escape in case of fire or another emergency.

 

Why would a homeowner use a non-conforming room as a bedroom?  Some of the reasons include:

• to earn money from it as a rental. While they run the risk of being discovered by the city, landlords will profit by renting out rooms that are not legally bedrooms;
• to increase the value of the home. All other considerations being equal, a four-bedroom house will usually sell for more than a three-bedroom house; and
• lack of knowledge of code requirements. To the untrained eye, there is little obvious difference between a conforming bedroom and non-conforming bedroom. When an emergency happens, however, the difference will be more apparent. If you have any questions about safety requirements, ask your InterNACHI inspector during your next scheduled inspection.

Homeowners run serious risks when they use a non-conforming room as a bedroom. An embittered tenant, for instance, may bring their landlord to court, especially if the tenant was forced out when the faux bedroom was exposed. The landlord, upon being exposed, might choose to adjust the bedroom to make it code-compliant, but this can cost thousands of dollars. Landlords can also be sued if they sell the home after having advertised it as having more bedrooms than it actually has. And the owner might pay more than they should be paying in property tax if they incorrectly list a non-conforming bedroom as a bedroom. Perhaps the greatest risk posed by rooms that unlawfully serve as bedrooms stems from the reason these laws exist in the first place:  rooms lacking egress can be deadly in case of an emergency. For instance, on January 5, 2002, four family members sleeping in the basement of a Gaithersburg, Maryland, townhome were killed by a blaze when they had no easy escape.

The following requirements are taken from the 2006 International Residential Code (IRC), and they can be used as a general guide, but bear in mind that the local municipality determines the legal definition of a bedroom. Such local regulations can vary widely among municipalities, and what qualifies as a bedroom in one city might be more properly called a den in a nearby city. In some municipalities, the room must be above grade, be equipped with an AFCI or smoke alarm to be considered a conforming bedroom, for instance. Ceiling height and natural lighting might also be factors. The issue can be extremely complex, so it’s best to learn the code requirements for your area. Nevertheless, the IRC can be useful, and it reads as follows:

• EMERGENCY ESCAPE AND RESCUE REQUIRED SECTION: R 310.1 Basements and every sleeping room shall have at least one operable emergency and rescue opening. Such opening shall open directly into a public street, public alley, yard or court. Where basements contain one or more sleeping rooms, emergency egress and rescue openings shall be required in each sleeping room, but shall not be required in adjoining areas of the basement. Where emergency escape and rescue openings are provided, they shall have a sill height of not more than 44 inches (1,118mm) above the floor. Where a door opening having a threshold below the adjacent ground elevation serves as an emergency escape and rescue opening and is provided with a bulkhead enclosure, the bulkhead enclosure shall comply with SECTION R310.3. The net clear opening dimensions required by this section shall be obtained by the normal operation of the emergency escape and rescue opening from the inside. Emergency escape and rescue openings with a finished sill height below the adjacent ground elevation shall be provided with a window well, in accordance with SECTION R310.2.  
  • MINIMUM OPENING AREA: SECTION: R 310.1.1 All emergency escape and rescue openings shall have a minimum net clear opening of 5.7 square feet (0.530 m2). Exception: Grade floor openings shall have a minimum net clear opening of 5 square feet (0.465 m2).
  • MINIMUM OPENING HEIGHT: R 310.1.2 The minimum net clear opening height shall be 24 inches (610mm).
  • MINIMUM OPENING WIDTH: R 310.1.3 The minimum net clear opening width shall be 20 inches (508mm).
  • OPERATIONAL CONSTRAINTS: R 310.1.4 Emergency escape and rescue openings shall be operational from the inside of the room without the use of keys or tools or special knowledge.
    
• WINDOW WELLS: SECTION: R310.2 The minimum horizontal area of the window well shall be 9 square feet (0.9 m2), with a minimum horizontal projection and width of 36 inches (914mm). The area of the window well shall allow the emergency escape and rescue opening to be fully opened. Exception: The ladder or steps required by SECTION R 310.2.1 shall be permitted to encroach a maximum of 6 inches (152mm) into the required dimensions of the window well.
  
• LADDER AND STEPS: SECTION: R 310.2.1 Window wells with a vertical depth greater than 44 inches (1,118mm) shall be equipped with a permanently affixed ladder or steps usable with the window in the fully open position. Ladders or steps required by this section shall not be required to comply with SECTIONS R311.5 and R311.6. Ladders or rungs shall have an inside width of at least 12 inches (305 mm), shall project at least 3 inches (76mm) from the wall, and shall be spaced not more than 18 inches (457mm) on-center vertically for the full height of the window well.

• BULKHEAD ENCLOSURES: SECTION: R 310.3 Bulkhead enclosures shall provide direct access to the basement. The bulkhead enclosure with the door panels in the fully open position shall provide the minimum net clear opening required by SECTION R 310.1.1. Bulkhead enclosures shall also comply with SECTION R 311.5.8.2.

• BARS, GRILLS, COVERS, AND SCREENS: SECTION: R 310.3 Bars, grilles, covers, screens or similar devices are permitted to be placed over emergency escape and rescue openings, bulkhead enclosures, or window wells that serve such openings, provided the minimum net clear opening size complies with SECTIONS R 310.1.1 to R 310.1.3, and such devices shall be releasable or removable from the inside without the use of a key, tool, special knowledge, or force greater than that which is required for normal operation of the escape and rescue opening.

• EMERGENCY ESCAPE WINDOWS UNDER DECKS AND PORCHES: SECTION: R 310.5 Emergency escape windows are allowed to be installed under decks and porches, provided the location of the deck allows the emergency escape window to be fully opened and provides a path not less than 36 inches (914 mm) in height to a yard or court.

In summary, non-conforming bedrooms are rooms that unlawfully serve as bedrooms, as the occupant would lack an easy escape in case of emergency.

 

One Source Real Estate Inspection your local certified home inspector @ www.onesourceinspection.com.

From Non-Conforming Bedrooms - InterNACHI http://www.nachi.org/non-conforming-bedrooms.htm#ixzz2z7SlkDM7