Home Inspection Services

Tuesday, December 17, 2013

Home Energy Report™ - WWW.ONESOURCEINSPECTION.COM or 1-888-340-6566. " HAPPY HOLIDAY'S"

Home Energy Report™

 
Did You Know?
 
It takes a lot of energy to heat, cool, and operate a home. Most home buyers purchase a home without first understanding what it will cost to operate it once they move in. 
 
The average homeowner can save over $500 every year on utility bills by following the prioritized recommendations within the Home Energy Report™.
The Report.
 
The Home Energy Report™ will give a home buyer a quick understanding of:
    • how much a home will cost to operate once they move in;
    • where energy (and, therefore, money) is being wasted in the home; and
    • what can be done to save energy and increase comfort.
     
    The Inspection.
     
    To produce a Home Energy Report™, your inspector will collect over 40 data points related to home energy, including:
    • number and age of new occupants;
    • local energy prices;
    • building design and orientation;
    • light bulbs, number and type;
    • insulation R-value at the foundation, ceiling and walls;
    • air tightness and air leakage rates;
    • skylights and window types and sizes;
    • appliances and equipment, size, age, capacities and efficiencies; and
    • heating, cooing and water heating data.
     
     Play the 1-minute video below:
     
     
     
     

    WWW.ONESOURCEINSPECTION.COM or  1-888-340-6566

     
     
     
     Play the 1-minute video below:
     
     

    One Source Real Estate Inspection your local CA Valley InterNACHI Home Inspector

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     


    From Home Energy Report™ - Int'l Association of Certified Home Inspectors (InterNACHI) http://www.nachi.org/energy.htm#ixzz2nmj96yzV

    Home Energy Report™ - One Source Real Estate Inspection your local Home Inspector

    Home Energy Report™

     
    Did You Know?
     
    It takes a lot of energy to heat, cool, and operate a home. Most home buyers purchase a home without first understanding what it will cost to operate it once they move in. 
     
    The average homeowner can save over $500 every year on utility bills by following the prioritized recommendations within the Home Energy Report™.
    The Report.
     
    The Home Energy Report™ will give a home buyer a quick understanding of:
      • how much a home will cost to operate once they move in;
      • where energy (and, therefore, money) is being wasted in the home; and
      • what can be done to save energy and increase comfort.
       
      The Inspection.
       
      To produce a Home Energy Report™, your inspector will collect over 40 data points related to home energy, including:
      • number and age of new occupants;
      • local energy prices;
      • building design and orientation;
      • light bulbs, number and type;
      • insulation R-value at the foundation, ceiling and walls;
      • air tightness and air leakage rates;
      • skylights and window types and sizes;
      • appliances and equipment, size, age, capacities and efficiencies; and
      • heating, cooing and water heating data.
       
       Play the 1-minute video below:
       
       


      www.onesourcenspection.com




      From Home Energy Report™ - Int'l Association of Certified Home Inspectors (InterNACHI) http://www.nachi.org/energy.htm#ixzz2nmBJho1k

      Monday, December 2, 2013

      Mold Inspection and Removal - www.onesourceinspection.com

      Mold Inspection and Removal
      IAC2 Mold Certified


      Mold is a severe health hazard that can exacerbate or cause allergies, breathing problems, headaches, and even medical conditions that require hospitalization. If you suspect mold in your home or business, The One Source Real Estate Inspection Team can spearhead the mold removal process.



      Contact Us

      Mold, Moisture and Your Home

       
      Mold Basics 
      The key to mold control is moisture control.
      • If mold is a problem in your home, you should clean up the mold promptly and fix the water problem.
      • It is important to dry water-damaged areas and items within 24 to 48 hours to prevent mold growth.
      Why is mold growing in my home?
       
      Molds are part of the natural environment.  Outdoors, molds play a part in nature by breaking down dead organic matter, such as fallen leaves and dead trees.  But indoors, mold growth should be avoided.  Molds reproduce by means of tiny spores; the spores are invisible to the naked eye and float through outdoor and indoor air.  Mold may begin growing indoors when mold spores land on surfaces that are wet.  There are many types of mold, and none of them will grow without water or moisture.
       
      Can mold cause health problems?
       
      Molds are usually not a problem indoors, unless mold spores land on a wet or damp spot and begin growing.  Molds have the potential to cause health problems.  Molds produce allergens (substances that can cause allergic reactions), irritants and, in some cases, potentially toxic substances (mycotoxins).  Inhaling or touching mold or mold spores may cause allergic reactions in sensitive individuals.  Allergic responses include hay fever-type symptoms, such as sneezing, runny nose, red eyes, and skin rash (dermatitis).  Allergic reactions to mold are common.  They can be immediate or delayed.  Molds can also cause asthma attacks in people with asthma who are allergic to mold.  In addition, mold exposure can irritate the eyes, skin, nose, throat and lungs of both mold-allergic and non-allergic people.  Symptoms other than the allergic and irritant types are not commonly reported as a result of inhaling mold.  Research on mold and health effects is ongoing.  This article provides a brief overview; it does not describe all potential health effects related to mold exposure.  For more detailed information, consult a health professional.  You may also wish to consult your state or local health department.

      How do I get rid of mold?  

      It is impossible to get rid of all mold and mold spores indoors.  Some mold spores will be found floating through the air and in house dust. Mold spores will not grow if moisture is not present.  Indoor mold growth can and should be prevented or controlled by controlling moisture indoors. If there is mold growth in your home, you must clean up the mold and fix the water problem. If you clean up the mold but don't fix the water problem, then, most likely, the mold problem will recur.
       
      Who should do the cleanup?
       This depends on a number of factors.  One consideration is the size of the mold problem.  If the moldy area is less than about 10 square feet (less than roughly a 3-foot by 3-foot patch), in most cases, you can handle the job yourself, following the guidelines below.  
      If there has been a lot of water damage, and/or mold growth covers more than 10 square feet, consult with an InterNACHI inspector.
      If you choose to hire a contractor (or other professional service provider) to do the cleanup, make sure the contractor has experience cleaning up mold.  Check references and ask the contractor to follow the recommendations of the EPA, the guidelines of the American Conference of Governmental Industrial Hygenists (ACGIH), or other guidelines from professional or government organizations.
      Do not run the HVAC system if you know or suspect that it is contaminated with mold.  This could spread mold throughout the building. 
      If the water and/or mold damage was caused by sewage or other contaminated water, then call in a professional who has experience cleaning and fixing buildings damaged by contaminated water. 
      If you have health concerns, consult a health professional before starting cleanup.


      From Mold, Moisture and Your Home - InterNACHI http://www.nachi.org/mold.htm#ixzz2lQwxLWQz

      Sunday, November 17, 2013

      Holiday Home Safety Tips - www.onesourceinspection.com

      Holiday Home Safety Tips

       
       
      The winter holidays are a time for celebration, and that means more cooking, home decorating, entertaining, and an increased risk of fire and accidents. InterNACHI recommends that you follow these guidelines to help make your holiday season safer and more enjoyable.
           
       
      Holiday Lighting
      • Use caution with holiday decorations and, whenever possible, choose those made with flame-resistant, flame-retardant and non-combustible materials.
      • Keep candles away from decorations and other combustible materials, and do not use candles to decorate Christmas trees.
      • Carefully inspect new and previously used light strings, and replace damaged items before plugging lights in. If you have any questions about electrical safety, ask an InterNACHI inspector during your next scheduled inspection. Do not overload extension cords.
      • Don't mount lights in any way that can damage the cord's wire insulation.  To hold lights in place, string them through hooks or insulated staples--don't use nails or tacks. Never pull or tug lights to remove them.
      • Keep children and pets away from light strings and electrical decorations.
      • Never use electric lights on a metallic tree. The tree can become charged with electricity from faulty lights, and a person touching a branch could be electrocuted.
      • Before using lights outdoors, check labels to be sure they have been certified for outdoor use.  
      • Make sure all the bulbs work and that there are no frayed wires, broken sockets or loose connections.
      • Plug all outdoor electric decorations into circuits with ground-fault circuit interrupters to avoid potential shocks.
      • Turn off all lights when you go to bed or leave the house. The lights could short out and start a fire.
       
       
       
      Decorations
      • Use only non-combustible and flame-resistant materials to trim a tree. Choose tinsel and artificial icicles of plastic and non-leaded metals.
      • Never use lighted candles on a tree or near other evergreens. Always use non-flammable holders, and place candles where they will not be knocked down.
      • In homes with small children, take special care to avoid decorations that are sharp and breakable, and keep trimmings with small removable parts out of the reach of children.
      • Avoid trimmings that resemble candy and food that may tempt a young child to put them in his mouth.
       
       
      Holiday Entertaining
       
      • Unattended cooking is the leading cause of home fires in the U.S.  When cooking for holiday visitors, remember to keep an eye on the range.
      • Provide plenty of large, deep ashtrays, and check them frequently. Cigarette butts can smolder in the trash and cause a fire, so completely douse cigarette butts with water before discarding.
      • Keep matches and lighters up high, out of sight and reach of children (preferably in a locked cabinet).
      • Test your smoke alarms, and let guests know what your fire escape plan is.
       


      Trees
      • When purchasing an artificial tree, look for the label "fire-resistant."
      • When purchasing a live tree, check for freshness. A fresh tree is green, needles are hard to pull from branches, and when bent between your fingers, needles do not break.
      • When setting up a tree at home, place it away from fireplaces, radiators and portable heaters. Place the tree out of the way of traffic and do not block doorways.
      • Cut a few inches off the trunk of your tree to expose the fresh wood. This allows for better water absorption and will help to keep your tree from drying out and becoming a fire hazard.
      • Be sure to keep the stand filled with water, because heated rooms can dry live trees out rapidly.
      • Make sure the base is steady so the tree won't tip over easily.
         


      Fireplaces
      • Before lighting any fire, remove all greens, boughs, papers and other decorations from fireplace area. Check to see that the flue is open.
      • Use care with "fire salts," which produce colored flames when thrown on wood fires. They contain heavy metals that can cause intense gastrointestinal irritation and vomiting if eaten.
      • Do not burn wrapping papers in the fireplace. A flash fire may result as wrappings ignite suddenly and burn intensely.
        


      Toys and Ornaments
      • Purchase appropriate toys for the appropriate age. Some toys designed for older children might be dangerous for younger children.
      • Electric toys should be UL/FM approved.
      • Toys with sharp points, sharp edges, strings, cords, and parts small enough to be swallowed should not be given to small children.
      • Place older ornaments and decorations that might be painted with lead paint out of the reach of small children and pets. 

       
      Children and Pets
      • Poinsettias are known to be poisonous to humans and animals, so keep them well out of reach, or avoid having them.
      • Keep decorations at least 6 inches above the child’s reach.
      • Avoid using tinsel. It can fall on the floor and a curious child or pet may eat it. This can cause anything from mild distress to death.
      • Keep any ribbons on gifts and tree ornaments shorter than 7 inches. A child could wrap a longer strand of ribbon around their neck and choke.
      • Avoid mittens with strings for children. The string can get tangled around the child’s neck and cause them to choke. It is easier to replace a mitten than a child.
      • Watch children and pets around space heaters or the fireplace. Do not leave a child or pet unattended.
      • Store scissors and any sharp objects that you use to wrap presents out of your child’s reach.
      • Inspect wrapped gifts for small decorations, such as candy canes, gingerbread men, and mistletoe berries, all of which are choking hazards.
       
       
      Security  
      • Use your home burglar alarm system.
      • If you plan to travel for the holidays, don’t discuss your plans with strangers. 
      • Have a trusted friend or neighbor to keep an eye on your home.

       
      YOUR NEIGHBORHOOD InterNACHI INSPECTOR WISHES YOU
      A SAFE & JOYOUS HOLIDAY SEASON!
       
       
       


      From Holiday Home Safety Tips - InterNACHI http://www.nachi.org/holidaysafety.htm#ixzz2kwe8U8HD

      Saturday, November 2, 2013

      Increasing Home Energy Efficiency - One Source Real Estate Inspection www.onesourceinspection.com

      Increasing Home Energy Efficiency - One Source Real Estate Inspection www.onesourceinspection.com

      by Nick Gromicko and Kenton Shepard
       
       
      InterNACHI advises that energy-efficient homes require less energy to perform household functions than homes that are less energy-efficient. There are many adjustments that homeowners can make to reduce the amount of energy required by their homes.

      Interesting facts about energy consumption in the United States and Canada:
      • The United States is the world’s largest consumer of energy, and the world’s seventh largest consumer of energy per capita.
      • Canada consumes more energy per capita than the United States.
      • Buildings account for 72% of all energy consumed in the United States.
      • 18% of all emissions in the United States comes from operating homes. 
      • In the average household, the TV is left on stand-by for 17 hours per day.
      Why make your home more energy-efficient?
      • Federal, state, utility and local jurisdictions' financial incentives, such as tax breaks, are very advantageous in most parts of the U.S.
      • It saves money. It costs less to power a home that has been converted to be more energy-efficient.
      • It increases indoor comfort levels.
      • It reduces our contributions to climate change. Many scientists now believe that excessive energy consumption contributes significantly to global warming. Programmable thermostat
      • It reduces pollution. Conventional power production introduces pollutants into the air that find their way into the soil and water supplies.
      Heating and Cooling
       
      As much as half of the energy used in homes goes toward heating and cooling. The following are a few ways that energy bills can be reduced through adjustments to the heating and cooling systems:
      • Add insulation to the building envelope (walls, floors and ceiling) to bring the home up to the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE)-recommended limits for the climate zone in which the home is located.
      • Insulate heating ducts. Up to 40% of energy can be lost in uninsulated heating ducts routed through unheated space. This means that up to 45 cents of every dollar spent on heating can be wasted.
      • Install a ceiling fan. Ceiling fans can be used in place of air conditioners, which require large amounts of energy.
      • Periodically replace air filters in air conditioners and heaters.
      • Set thermostats to an appropriate temperature. Specifically, they should be turned down at night and when no one is home. In most homes, about 2% of the heating bill will be saved for each degree that the thermostat is lowered for at least eight hours each day. Turning down the thermostat from 75°F to 70°F, for example, saves about 10% on heating costs.
      • Install a programmable thermostat. A programmable thermostat saves money by allowing heating and cooling appliances to be automatically turned down during times at which no one is home and at night. Programmable thermostats contain no mercury and, in some climate zones, can save up to $150 per year in energy costs.
      • Install a wood stoves or a pellet stove. These are more efficient sources of heat than furnaces.
      • At night, curtains drawn over windows will better insulate the room.
      Appliances and Electronics
       
      Appliances and electronics are responsible for about 20% of household energy bills in a typical U.S. home. The following are tips that will reduce the required energy of electronics and appliances:
      • Refrigerators and freezers should not be located near the stove, dishwasher or heat vents, or exposed to direct sunlight. Exposure to warm areas will force them to use more energy to remain cool.  
      • Computers should be shut off when not in use. If unattended computers must be left on, their monitors should be shut off. According to some studies, computers account for approximately 3% of all energy consumption in the United States.
      • Use efficient “Energy Star” -ated appliances and electronics. These devices, approved by the DOE and the EPA’s Energy Star program, range from TVs, home theater systems, DVD players, CD players, receivers, speakers and more. According to the EPA, if just 10% of homes used energy-efficient appliances, it would reduce carbon emissions by the equivalent of 1.7 million acres of trees.
      • Chargers, such as those for laptops and cell phones, consume energy when they are plugged in. When they are not connected to electronics, chargers should be unplugged.
      • Philips LED bulbLaptop computers consume considerably less electricity than desktop computers.
      Electric Lighting
       
      The average household dedicates 11% of its energy budget to lighting. Traditional incandescent lights convert approximately only 10% of the energy that they consume into light, while the rest becomes heat. The use of new lighting technologies, such as light-emitting diodes (LEDs) and compact fluorescent lamps (CFL), can reduce energy use required by lighting by 50% to 75%. Advances in lighting controls offer further energy savings by reducing the amount of time lights are on but not being used. Here are some facts about CFLs and LEDs:
      • CFLs use 75% less energy and last about 10 times longer than traditional incandescent bulbs.
      • LEDs last even longer than CFLs and consume less energy.
      • LEDs have no moving parts and, unlike CFLs, they contain no mercury
      Daylighting
       
      Daylighting is the practice of using natural light to illuminate the home's interior. It can be achieved using the following approaches:
      • skylights. It’s important that they be double-pane or they may not be cost-effective. Flashing skylights correctly is key to avoiding leaks.
      • light shelves. Light shelves are passive devices designed to bounce light deep into a building. They may be interior or exterior. Light shelves can introduce light into a space up to 2½ times the distance from the floor to the top of the window, and advanced light shelves may introduce four times that amount.
      • clerestory windows.  Clerestory windows are short, wide windows set high on the wall.  Protected from the summer sun by the roof overhang, they allow winter sun to shine through for natural lighting and warmth.
      • light tubes.  Light tubes use a special lens designed to amplify low-level light and reduce light intensity from the midday sun.  Sunlight is channeled through a tube coated with a highly relective material, then enters the living space through a diffuser designed to distribute light evenly.
      Cooking
       
      An enormous amount of energy is wasted while cooking. The following recommendations and statistics illustrate less wasteful ways of cooking:
      • Convection ovens are more efficient that conventional ovens. They use fans to force hot air to circulate more evenly, thereby allowing food to be cooked at a lower temperature. Convection ovens use approximately 20% less electricity than conventional ovens.
      • Microwave ovens consume approximately 80% less energy than conventional ovens.
      • Pans should be placed on the correctly-sized heating element or flame. 
      • Lids make food heat more quickly than pans that do not have lids.
      • Pressure cookers reduce cooking time dramatically.
      • When using conventional ovens, food should be placed on the top rack. The top rack is hotter and will cook food faster. 

      Leakage Through the Building Envelope
       
      Sealing holes and cracks in the home’s envelope helps reduce drafts, moisture, dust, pollen and noise. A tightly sealed home can improve comfort and indoor air quality while reducing utility bills. Tightening the home reduces the number of air changes per hour. The following are some common places where leakage may occur:
      • electrical outlets;
      • mail slots;
      • around pipes and wires;
      • wall- or window-mounted air conditioners;
      • attic hatches;
      • fireplace dampers;
      • weatherstripping around doors;
      • baseboards;
      • window frames; and
      • switch plates.
      Strategies for filling cracks:
      • Caulk can be used to fill small gaps. Caulk can be obtained at hardware stores.
      • Expandable foam can be used to fill larger gaps.
      • Foam gaskets can be used to seal electrical outlets.
      Windows and Doors
       
      About one-third of the home's total heat loss usually occurs through windows and doors. The following are ways to reduce energy lost through doors and windows.
      • Seal all window edges and cracks with rope caulk. This is the cheapest and simplest option.
      • Windows can be weatherstripped with a special lining that is inserted between the window and the frame. For doors, weatherstrip around the whole perimeter to ensure a tight seal when closed. Install quality door sweeps on the bottom of the doors, if they aren't already in place.
      • Install storm windows at windows with only single panes. A removable glass frame can be installed over an existing window.
      • If existing windows have rotted or damaged wood, cracked glass, missing putty, poorly fitting sashes, or locks that don't work, they should be repaired or replaced.
      Indoor Water Conservation
       
      The following systems can be installed to conserve water usage in homes:
      • low-flow shower heads. They are available in different flow rates, and some have a pause button which shuts off the water while the bather lathers up.
      • low-flow toilets. Toilets consume 30% to 40% of the total water used in homes, making them the biggest water users. Replacing an older 3.5-gallon toilet with a modern, low-flow 1.6-gallon toilet can reduce usage an average of two gallons-per-flush (GPF), saving 12,000 gallons of water per year. Low-flow toilets usually have "1.6 GPF" marked on the bowl behind the seat or inside the tank.
      • vacuum-assist toilets. These types of toilets have a vacuum chamber, which uses a siphon action to suck air from the trap beneath the bowl, allowing it to quickly fill with wFlat-plate solar collector ater to clear waste. Vacuum toilets are relatively quiet.
      • dual-flush toilets. Dual-flush toilets have been used in Europe and Australia for years, and are now gaining in popularity in the U.S. Dual-flush toilets let you choose between a 1-gallon (or less) flush for liquid waste, and a 1.6-gallon flush for solid waste. Dual-flush 1.6-GPF toilets reduce water consumption by an additional 30%.
      Solar-Thermal Heating
       
      Solar water heating first became popular in the 1970s when federal, state and utility incentives encouraged their installation, as is happening again now. Inspectors will see many of these older systems still in place but no longer working. In practice, inspectors will encounter a wide variety of system configurations and components, and recommending a specialist inspection is a good idea in order to pass on liability. These systems can be expensive. The idea is fairly simple. Solar insolation heats a circulating fluid which transfers its heat to a storage tank from which home hot water can be drawn, either directly to plumbing fixtures, or to supply pre-heated water to boilers or hot water heaters.

      Various types of solar-thermal heating can be installed, such as:
      • evacuated tube collectors;
      • flat-plate collectors; and 
      • parabolic through-collectors.
      In summary, there are a variety of adjustments to the home that homeowners can make to increase the energy-efficiency of their homes. 


      From Increasing Home Energy Efficiency - InterNACHI http://www.nachi.org/increasing-home-energy-efficiency.htm#ixzz2jVy0J2gK

      Friday, November 1, 2013

      Grease Trap Inspection - One Source Real Estate Inspection

      Grease Trap Inspection - One Source Real Estate Inspection 1-888-340-6566.

      by Nick Gromicko

      Commercial property inspectors, especially those who inspect food-handling establishments, can assist their clients in understanding the operation of grease traps so that their maintenance is not neglected.  An inoperable or clogged grease trap can cause serious problems not only for the inspected establishment, but also for neighbors and even the entire local community.
      Grease traps are plumbing devices designed to intercept fats, oils and grease -- collectively known as FOG -- before they enter a wastewater disposal system. FOG originates from the cleaning process of pots, pans, plates and silverware that contain food products such as deep-fried foods, meats, sauces, gravy, dressings, baked goods, cheese and butter.FOG pipe
      The terms “grease traps” and “grease interceptors” are often used interchangeably, but they are distinctly different technologies. While they both remove grease from water and operate by similar principles, here are some of their differences:
      • Grease traps have a small capacity and are installed indoors and near the location where the grease is generated. They can be monitored and cleaned by restaurant employees and require no special equipment to clean.
      • Grease interceptors are large, underground units (some having a capacity of several thousand gallons) that typically serve high-flow applications, such as larger restaurants, factories and grocery stores. To install a grease interceptor, a large trench must first be excavated and a cement footing built for support. The interceptor is placed into the trench where gravel is then poured to fill the space between the interceptor and the earth. An extension collar connects the buried interceptor with a manhole cover at ground level, approximately 30 inches above. Grease interceptors must be cleaned by licensed grease haulers who use specialized pumps and hoses.
      Grease Traps vs. Removal or Converter UnitsThis photo of a new grease trap converter unit was provided by InterNACHI inspector Linas Dapkus.
      Grease traps and interceptors merely trap grease, so they should not be confused with automatic grease-removal units or grease converters. The former device employs hydrostatic pressure or a skimmer to clean itself, has more moving parts, and relies on motors, heaters and timers. Grease converters trap grease in a tank that contains bacteria and enzymes that digest the grease and convert it into a water-soluble biodegradable product that can be safely discharged into the drainage system.
       
      How Do Grease Traps Work?
       
      Most grease traps are passive, which means that they operate without any moving or mechanical parts. Greasy wastewater entering the trap passes through a vented flow control that regulates the flow of the wastewater. The wastewater passes over a series of baffles that separate the grease and oil from the water by slowing the flow to allow enough detention time for lighter fats, oils and greases to rise. The clean water rests at the bottom, where it may leave the unit through an exit valve, retaining the FOG within the trap until it is cleaned out. Baffles on a commercial grease trap
      Without these devices, grease will enter sanitary sewer systems to create economic, safety and environmental hazards by clogging and damaging pipes and interfering with water-treatment plant operations. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency estimates that nearly half of all the 400,000 sewer blockages that occur annually are caused by grease, and many of these contribute to the 40,000 annual sewer overflows. Even accumulated FOG that does not lead to an overflow or blockage may increase public maintenance and costs. Homeowners, business owners and municipalities are burdened by cleanup costs that can exceed $100,000 per incident. People may be responsible for overflows that are not their fault, as was the case in 2007 when the city of Fort Worth, Texas, declared immunity to severe damage caused to three residences when effluent from the public sewer system flooded their homes.
      Restaurants are the most common source of FOG that causes backups, and they're particularly vulnerable to the resulting damage, often in the form of lost business during temporary closure, spoiled food, and injured reputation. The use of adequately sized and regularly inspected grease traps is thus mandated by local jurisdictions in restaurants, along with hotels, food-processing establishments, supermarkets, factories, and other places that routinely generate significant amounts of grease that would otherwise wind up in public sewers.
      Inspection Checklist
      InterNACHI commercial inspectors and business operators can use the following checklist for inspecting grease traps:
      • proper capacity. If the traps are too small, they will not be able to prevent some of the FOG from entering the sewer system. If they are too large, they can promote the creation of hydrogen sulfide gas, which may be converted into hydrochloric acid, which can damage metal and concrete structures downstream. Traps are sized based on the combined flow rate of the connected fixtures, including the sink, dishwasher and mop drain. As a rough guide, the city of Newton, Massachusetts, requires that grease traps have a retention capacity of at least 2 pounds of grease for each gallon-per- minute of water flow. The type of food served may also be a factor in sizing, as especially greasy or fried foods will require a larger grease trap;
      • the presence of a flow-control valve. These T-shaped metal fittings control the rate of flow of wastewater into the trap and protect against sudden surges from the sink or other fixtures from overloading the system. They should be placed beyond the last connection from the fixtures and as close as possible to the underside of the lowest fixture. When two or more sinks or fixtures are combined and served by one trap, a single flow-control fitting can be used;
      • the presence of an air intake for the flow-control valve. The flow-control device must be properly vented to permit air to mix with the fluid entering the interceptor to maintain adequate pressure. A vent will prevent a vacuum from forming within the trap, which can force water to enter the trap too quickly;
      • proper clearance. Traps should be accessible for cleaning and inspection, whether located inside the kitchen, outside the building, or above or below ground;
      • adequate distance from fixtures. Sources disagree over the proper distance that a grease trap should be installed from the fixtures being served. Some experts say that high temperatures may cause FOG to dissolve and exit the trap only to re-congeal once it cools in the sewer system, so traps should be installed some distance from dishwashers and other hot-water fixtures to allow time for the water to cool. Other sources, however, warn that placing the trap too far from fixtures will expose the building’s piping to grease buildup. Inspectors and restaurant owners can consult their authority having jurisdiction (AHJ) for local ordinances concerning appropriate water temperature and distance from fixtures of the grease trap;
      • intact construction of the trap.  It should be free of cracks in any part of the trap, including the baffles;
      • whether the garbage disposal empties into the grease trap, which is not desirable.  Ground food scraps will overload the trap and reduce its efficiency. Solid food scraps will also decay in the trap, creating unpleasant odors and unsanitary conditions;
      • watertightness. Underground interceptors must be watertight to prevent the infiltration of groundwater or the escape of grease into groundwater or public sewers. Cracks should not be visible and the lid should be tight-fitting; and
      • whether the grease trap has been re-purposed to serve multiple functions.  Grease traps should never serve toilets or other sanitary systems.
      Cleaning the Grease Trap
      It is important to understand that the grease trap’s efficiency diminishes as the trap fills with FOG, and when it is filled to capacity, it will no longer separate any FOG from water. The operator may not realize that the trap is full, however, as it will continue to accept water even after it fills, sending the unfiltered FOG directly into the sewer system. And because grease fills the trap from the top down (combined with variations in grease load), it can be difficult to know when the trap needs to be cleaned. And, unfortunately, cleaning grease traps, especially large units, is an unpleasant undertaking that may require restaurant operations to temporarily cease, so this important maintenance task is often neglected. Sometimes, too, amidst the hustle and bustle of a restaurant environment, the chore of cleaning the grease trap is simply forgotten.
      The plumbing industry standard states that grease traps should be cleaned when 25% of the volume is occupied by grease (and 75% by water). Traps may need to be cleaned before hitting this threshold, however, so the operator will need to monitor the trap, particularly grease accumulation on the outlet baffle, to determine an appropriate cleaning schedule for the commercial enterprise. Hosing out a grease interceptor as part of proper maintenance
      After disassembling the trap, the layer of FOG should be placed into a watertight bag or container and placed in the trash. Unlike “yellow grease” collected from deep-fat fryers that can be used in the production of biodiesel, soap and rubber, FOG is not recyclable and it must be placed in the trash. The interior sides, baffles and lid should then be scraped of FOG and cleaned. Rubber gloves should be worn and soap and antibacterial substances should be avoided during the cleaning process. When the trap is re-assembled, care should be taken to align the parts properly as, once flow is resumed, misaligned parts may allow overflowing and contamination of grease into the restaurant. While cleaning grease interceptors, care should be taken to avoid pinch points created by heavy manhole covers and to avoid damaging the rubber lining that prevents odors from escaping above ground. Any large items found at the bottom of the interceptor tank should be removed.  One company reported having discovered a tricycle in their tank.
      To reduce the need for cleaning the grease trap, unfinished food, fats, cooking oil and grease remaining in pots and pans should be dry-wiped or scraped out and into the trash prior to wet-washing. This measure can substantially reduce FOG discharged into the grease trap and prevent the release of foul sulfur gases into the commercial establishment.
      In summary, grease traps and grease interceptors are plumbing devices required in food service facilities that prevent fats, oils and grease from entering the public sewer system. InterNACHI inspectors and business operators should learn how these devices work and how they are cleaned, maintained and inspected.


      From Grease Trap Inspection - InterNACHI http://www.nachi.org/grease-trap-inspection.htm#ixzz2jRdikhbU

      Monday, October 28, 2013

      Fire Safety for the Home - www.onesourceinspection.com

      Fire Safety for the Home - One Source Real Estate Inspection.

      by Nick Gromicko and Kate Tarasenko
       
       
       
      The U.S. Fire Administration reports that more than 403,000 home fires occurred in the U.S. in 2008, causing 2,780 deaths and more than 13,500 injuries.  Some fires are caused by issues related to the structure, such as lightning strikes, faulty wiring, furnace malfunctions, and other electrical and heating system-related mishaps. 
       
      But most home fires are preventable.  According to an April 2010 report by the National Fire Protection Association, adults over the age of 75 are almost three times more likely to die in a home fire than the rest of the general public.  The NFPA’s fire prevention program promotes the following eight tips that elderly people – and people of all ages – can use.
      1.  Plan and practice your escape from fire. 
      We’ve heard this advice before, but you can’t be prepared to act in an emergency if you don’t have a plan and everybody knows what that plan is.  Panic and fear can spread as quickly as a fire, so map out an escape route and a meeting place outdoors, and involve even the youngest family members so that everyone can work as a unit to make a safe escape.
      If you live in a condo or apartment building, make sure you read the signs posted on your floor advising you of the locations of stairways and other exits, as well as alarm pull stations and fire extinguishers.
      2.  Plan your escape around your abilities. 

      Keeping a phone by your bedside will allow you to call 911 quickly, especially if the exits of your home are blocked by smoke or flames.  Keep a pair of shoes near your bed, too.  If your home or building has a fire escape, take some time to practice operating it and climbing it.
      3.  Smoke alarms save lives. 

      If you don’t already have permanently installed smoke alarms hard-wired into your electrical system and located outside each bedroom and on each floor, purchase units and place them in those locations.  Install them using adhesive or screws, but be careful not to touch your screwdriver to any internal wiring, which can cause an electrostatic discharge and disable them. 
      Also, install carbon monoxide detectors, which can protect family members from lethal poisoning even before a fire starts.
      4.  Give space heaters space.

      Whether saving on utility bills by using the furnace infrequently, or when using these portable units for spot heat, make sure you give them at least 3 feet of clearance.  Be sure to turn off and unplug them when you leave or go to bed.  Electrical appliances draw current even when they’re turned off, and a faulty one can cause a fire that can spread through the wires in the walls at a deadly pace.
      5.  If you smoke, smoke outside. 

      Not only will this keep your family members healthier and your home smelling fresher, it will minimize the chance that an errant ember from your cigarette will drop and smolder unnoticed until it causes damage.
      6.  Be kitchen-wise. 

      This means monitoring what you have on the stove and keeping track of what’s baking in the oven.  Don’t cook if you’re tired or taking medication that clouds your judgment or makes you drowsy.  Being kitchen-wise also means wearing clothing that will not easily catch on the handles of pots and pans, or graze open flames or heating elements. 
      It also means knowing how to put out a grease fire; water will make it spread, but salt or baking soda will extinguish it quickly, as will covering the pot or pan with a lid and turning off the stove.  Always use your cooktop’s vent fan while cooking. 
      Keep a small, all-purpose fire extinguisher in a handy place, such as under the sink.  These 3-pound lifesavers are rated “ABC” for their fire-suppressing contents:  “A” puts out ignited trash, wood and paper; “B” acts on grease and other flammable liquids; and “C” deals with small electrical fires.  Read the instructions on these inexpensive devices when you bring them home from the store so that you can act quickly, if the time comes.  If your fire extinguisher is somewhat old because you've yet to use it, turning the canister upside-down and tapping the bottom will help agitate the contents and prevent them from caking, and possibly clogging the nozzle at the time of use.  It's also a good idea to stow an extra fire extinguisher near the bedrooms.  If an emergency arises and you find yourself trapped by an uncooperative window, you can use the canister to smash through it.
      7.  Stop, drop and roll. 

      Fight the urge to panic and run if your clothes catch fire because this will only accelerate its spread, since fire needs oxygen to sustain and grow.  Tamping out the fire by rolling is effective, especially since your clothes may be on fire on your back or lower body where you may not be immediately aware of it.  If ground space is limited, cover yourself with a blanket to tamp out any flames, and douse yourself with water as soon as you can. 
      Additionally, always stay close to the floor during a fire; heat and smoke rise, and breathable air will normally be found at the floor-level, giving you a greater chance of escape before being overcome by smoke and toxic fumes.
      Also, before exiting a closed room, be sure to test the doorknob for heat before opening the door.  A very hot doorknob indicates that fire could be lurking just outside; opening the door will feed the fire an added surge of oxygen, potentially causing an explosive backdraft that can be fatal. 
      8.  Know your local emergency number. 

      People of all ages need to know their emergency number (usually, it’s 911).  Posting it near the phone and putting it on speed-dial will save precious moments when the ability to think clearly may be compromised.
      More Tips
      • Make sure your electrical system is updated, and that you have appropriate AFCI and GFCI receptacles.  Have your system inspected by an InterNACHI inspector or a licensed electrician to make sure your electrical needs are not taxing your electrical system.
      • Make sure you have smoke alarms and carbon monoxide detectors installed.  Test them to make sure they’re working properly, and change their batteries at least annually.
      • Check to see that your house number is clearly visible from the street, and unobstructed by any tree branches or structural overhangs.  If first-responders are called to your home to put out a fire, make sure they can find you.
      • Be aware of lit candles.  Never leave them unattended, and always blow them out when leaving home or going to bed.  This is especially important during the holidays when candles are used as holiday decorations.  Also, keep them out of the way of drapes and plants, and out of reach of children and especially pets, whose tails can accidentally knock over a candle or come into contact with its flame.
      • Never use barbecue grills indoors, either for cooking or as a heat source.  The carbon monoxide they emit cannot be adequately vented, and their flammable materials pose safety hazards.  Also, do not use the oven to heat the indoors.  Space heaters are safer and more energy-efficient.  Ask your InterNACHI home inspector to perform an energy audit to find heat leaks, and to suggest low-cost ways to keep your home warm and comfortable during cold weather.
      • Consider getting rid of your electric blanket.  The fire hazards associated with them make the prospect of trading them in for a thick comforter or multiple blankets much less worrisome.  When their embedded cords become bent, the internal wiring can break, causing them to short out and start an electrical fire. This electric blanket shorted out and caught fire, burning the bedding and mattress.  Its user barely escaped serious injury.
      • Be extra-vigilant when using hot pads, hot plates, Bunsen burners and portable cooktops.  They can overheat and burn the surface they’re sitting on, or burn through a cup or pot sitting on top, which can lead to smoke and fire.  Never leave these unattended, and always unplug (or extinguish) them when not in use.
      • Unplug portable electronic devices and other small appliances when not in use.  Coffeemakers, blow dryers and other devices we use daily still draw current when they’re plugged in, even if they’re turned off.  A faulty device can cause an electrical fire that can be devastating.  One family in Boulder, Colo., returned home one day to discover their house burned to the ground; the fire marshal discovered that the cause was a switched-off curling iron that was left plugged into the wall's receptacle  Get into the habit of unplugging, just to be safe.
      • Use extension cords sparingly, and always unplug them when not in use.  Some electrical devices work best when plugged directly into the wall’s receptacle or outlet, especially if they have a ground wire (which you should never cut off).  Devices plugged into extension cords can easily overheat (themselves or the extension cords), damaging wires within walls and weakening your electrical system, potentially causing an electrical fire.  Always check for the UL-listed label on extension cords.  Remember that they also pose a tripping hazard, which is another reason to minimize their use.
      • Clean your clothes dryer’s lint trap after each use.  Your dryer should vent directly to the outdoors. Check to make sure that there are no obstructions in the vent hose, such as birds’ nests, foliage or other debris.  The vent should have a damper to keep wildlife and debris out, but it should not have a screen, which can trap combustibles, allowing them to accumulate, heat up, and possibly catch fire.
      • If you have a fireplace, remember to have it professionally inspected and cleaned periodically by a chimney sweep.  Creosote buildup can cause a fire that may unexpectedly back into the living space.  Make sure your damper is working properly, and that the chimney lining is in good condition.  The next time your InterNACHI inspector inspects your roof, s/he can check for adequate flashing around the chimney, as well as its structural integrity.  Make sure the fire is completely out before you leave the home.  Keep all kindling and combustibles a safe distance away from the mouth of the fireplace.  Make use of a screen at the hearth to prevent embers from escaping.  And avoid burning green wood, which doesn't burn as evenly or safely as dry wood.
      Smoke Alarms
      All new residential construction requires the installation of smoke alarms, usually on each floor of the home, as well as outside each sleeping area.  Many newer smoke alarms can also detect carbon monoxide.  This silent and odorless killer is one of the primary causes of accidental death because family members can be fatally poisoned while sleeping.
      Smoke alarms come in two types.  Photoelectric alarms can sense smoky and smoldering fires.  Ionization alarms are quicker at detecting flames and fast-moving fire.  Dual-sensor smoke alarms combine both these features, and are recommended by the USFA because it’s impossible to predict the type of fire that may erupt in a home.  There are also smoke alarms that vibrate and/or flash strobe lights to alert home dwellers who are vision-impaired or hard of hearing.
      The leading U.S. manufacturer of residential smoke alarms, as well as home fire extinguishers, is Kidde.  Their dual-sensor smoke alarms were the subject of a voluntary recall by the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission in the summer of 2009 because of a malfunction caused by an electrostatic discharge created during their installation, rendering them inoperable.  Make sure that you install any portable smoke alarms and carbon monoxide detectors safely, and test them after installation.  You can also ask your local fire department to do this for you.
      Many smoke alarms are hard-wired into the home’s electrical system, but may still have batteries for backup in the event of a power outage.  They also typically have a test button. Make sure you test them once a month, and replace the batteries once a year.  If you hear a chirping noise, this is a signal that the batteries are weak and need replacing. 
      Some smoke alarms have “nuisance” buttons.  If you burn something that you’re cooking and accidentally set off the alarm, you can press the nuisance button to turn it off.  Remember not to actually disable the alarm; you may forget to reset it later.  Simply clear the room of smoke instead.
       
      Rebates and Discounts
      Under most standard homeowners and even renters insurance policies today, having smoke alarms, carbon monoxide detectors and fire extinguishers in the home will qualify policyholders for rebates and discounts on their premiums.  Some newer homes now have sprinkler systems, and various municipalities around the U.S. are mandating their installation, depending on the square footage of the home.
       
      In summary, installing dual-sensor smoke alarms and carbon monoxide detectors, as well as taking some common-sense precautions and performing regular household maintenance, will help keep your family safe from the destructive and potentially lethal effects of a house fire.  Schedule an inspection with your InterNACHI inspector to see where you can fortify your home against this threat.


      From Fire Safety for the Home - InterNACHI http://www.nachi.org/fire-safety-home.htm#ixzz2j3YW7Qr7

      Friday, October 18, 2013

      Elements of an Energy-Efficient House - www,onesourceinspection.com

      Elements of an Energy-Efficient House

      Designing and building an energy-efficient home that conforms to the many considerations faced by home builders can be a challenge.  However, at InterNACHI, we believe that any house style can be made to require relatively minimal amounts of energy to heat and cool, and be comfortable. It's easier now to get your architect and builder to use improved designs and construction methods. Even though there are many different design options available, they all have several things in common: a high R-value; a tightly sealed thermal envelope; controlled ventilation; and lower heating and cooling bills.
       
      Some designs are more expensive to build than others, but none of them needs to be extremely expensive to construct. Recent technological improvements in building components and construction techniques, and heating, ventilation, and cooling (HVAC) systems, allow most modern energy0saving ideas to be seamlessly integrated into any type of house design without sacrificing comfort, health or aesthetics. The following is a discussion of the major elements of energy-efficient home design and construction systems.
       
      The Thermal Envelope

      A "thermal envelope" is everything about the house that serves to shield the living space from the outdoors. It includes the wall and roof assemblies, insulation, windows, doors, finishes, weather-stripping, and air/vapor-retarders. Specific items to consider in these areas are described below.
       
      Wall and Roof Assemblies

      There are several alternatives to the conventional "stick" (wood-stud) framed wall and roof construction now available, and they're growing in popularity. They include:
      • Optimum Value Engineering (OVE)
        This is a method of using wood only where it does the most work, thus reducing costly wood use and saving space for insulation. However, workmanship must be of the highest order since, there is very little room for construction errors.
      • Structural Insulated Panels (SIP)
        These are generally plywood or oriented strand board (OSB) sheets laminated to a core of foam board. The foam may be 4 to 8 inches thick. Since the SIP acts as both the framing and the insulation, construction is much faster than OVE or its older counterpart, "stick-framing." The quality of construction is often superior, too, since there are fewer places for workers to make mistakes.
      • Insulating Concrete Forms (ICF)
        These often consist of two layers of extruded foam board (one inside the house and one outside the house) that act as the form for a steel-reinforced concrete center. This is the fastest and least likely technique to have construction mistakes. Such buildings are also very strong and easily exceed code requirements for tornado- and hurricane-prone areas.
       
      Insulation

      An energy-efficient house has much higher insulation R-values than required by most local building codes. For example, a typical house in New York state might contain haphazardly installed R-11 fiberglass insulation in the exterior walls and R-19 in the ceiling, while the floors and foundation walls may not be insulated at all. A similar but well-designed and constructed house's insulation levels would be in the range of R-20 to R-30 in the walls (including the foundation) and R-50 and R-70 in the ceilings. Carefully applied fiberglass batt or roll, wet-spray cellulose, or foam insulation will fill wall cavities completely.
       
      Air / Vapor Retarders

      These are two things that sometimes can do the same job. How to design and install them depend a great deal on the climate and what method of construction is chosen. No matter where you are building, water-vapor condensation is a major threat to the structure of a house. In cold climates, pressure differences can drive warm, moist indoor air into exterior walls and attics. It condenses as it cools. The same can be said for southern climates, just in reverse. As the humid outdoor air enters the walls to find cooler wall cavities, it condenses into liquid water. This is the main reason that some of the old buildings in the South that have been retrofitted with air conditioners now have mold and rotten wood problems.
       
      Regardless of your climate, it is important to minimize water vapor migration by using a carefully designed thermal envelope and sound construction practices. Any water vapor that does manage to get into the walls or attics must be allowed to get out again. Some construction methods and climates lend themselves to allowing the vapor to flow towards the outdoors. Others are better suited to letting it flow towards the interior so that the house ventilation system can deal with it.
       
      The "airtight drywall approach" and the "simple CS" system are other methods to control air and water-vapor movement in a residential building. These systems rely on the nearly airtight installation of sheet materials, such as drywall and gypsum board, on the interior as the main barrier, and carefully sealed foam board and/or plywood on the exterior.
       
      Foundations and Slabs

      Foundation walls and slabs should be at least as well-insulated as the living space walls. Uninsulated foundations have a negative impact on home energy use and comfort, especially if the family uses the lower parts of the house as living space. Also, appliances that supply heat as a by-product, such as domestic hot water heaters, washers, dryers and freezers, are often located in basements. By carefully insulating the foundation walls and floor of the basement, these appliances can assist in the heating of the house.
       
      Windows

      The typical home loses over 25% of its heat through windows. Since even modern windows insulate less than a wall, in general, an energy-efficient home in heating-dominated climates should have few windows on the north, east, and west exposures. A rule-of-thumb is that window area should not exceed 8% to 9% of the floor area, unless your designer is experienced in passive solar techniques. If this is the case, then increasing window area on the southern side of the house to about 12% of the floor area is recommended. In cooling-dominated climates, it's important to select east-, west- and south-facing windows with low solar heat-gain coefficients (these block solar heat gain). A properly designed roof overhang for south-facing windows is important to avoid overheating in the summer in most areas of the continental United States. At the very least, Energy Star-rated windows (or their equivalents) should be specified according to the Energy Star Regional Climatic Guidelines.
       
      In general, the best-sealing windows are awning and casement styles, since these often close tighter than sliding types. Metal window frames should be avoided, especially in cold climates. Always seal the wall air/vapor diffusion-retarder tightly around the edges of the window frame to prevent air and water vapor from entering the wall cavities.
       
      Air-Sealing

      A well-constructed thermal envelope requires that insulating and sealing be precise and thorough. Sealing air leaks everywhere in the thermal envelope reduces energy loss significantly. Good air-sealing alone may reduce utility costs by as much as 50% when compared to other houses of the same type and age. Homes built in this way are so energy-efficient that specifying the correct sizing heating/cooling system can be tricky. Rules-of-thumb system-sizing is often inaccurate, resulting in oversizing and wasteful operation.
       
      Controlled Ventilation

      Since an energy-efficient home is tightly sealed, it's also important and fairly simple to deliberately ventilate the building in a controlled way. Controlled, mechanical ventilation of the building reduces air moisture infiltration and thus the health risks from indoor air pollutants. This also promotes a more comfortable atmosphere, and reduces the likelihood of structural damage from excessive moisture accumulation.
       
      A carefully engineered ventilation system is important for other reasons, too. Since devices such as furnaces, water heaters, clothes dryers, and bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans exhaust air from the house, it's easier to depressurize a tight house, if all else is ignored. Natural-draft appliances, such as water heaters, wood stoves and furnaces may be "back-drafted" by exhaust fans, which can lead to a lethal build-up of toxic gases in the house. For this reason, it's a good idea to only use "sealed-combustion" heating appliances wherever possible, and provide make-up air for all other appliances that can pull air out of the building.
       
      Heat-recovery ventilators (HRV) or energy-recovery ventilators (ERV) are growing in use for controlled ventilation in tight homes. These devices salvage about 80% of the energy from the stale exhaust air, and then deliver that energy to the entering fresh air by way of a heat exchanger inside the device. They are generally attached to the central forced-air system, but they may have their own duct system.
       
      Other ventilation devices, such as through-the-wall and/or "trickle" vents may be used in conjunction with an exhaust fan. They are, however, more expensive to operate and possibly more uncomfortable to use, since they have no energy-recovery features to pre-condition the incoming air. Uncomfortable incoming air can be a serious problem if the house is in a northern climate, and it can create moisture problems in humid climates. This sort of ventilation strategy is recommended only for very mild to low-humidity climates.
       
      Heating and Cooling Requirements

      Houses incorporating the above elements should require relatively small heating systems (typically, less than 50,000 BTUs per hour, even for very cold climates). Some have nothing more than sunshine as the primary source of heat energy. Common choices for auxiliary heating include radiant in-floor heating from a standard gas-fired water heater, a small boiler, furnace, or electric heat pump. Also, any common appliance that gives off "waste" heat can contribute significantly to the heating requirements for such houses. Masonry, pellet and wood stoves are also options, but they must be operated carefully to avoid back-drafting.
       
      If an air conditioner is required, a small (6,000 BTUs per hour) unit can be sufficient. Some designs use only a large fan and the cooler evening air to cool down the house. In the morning, the house is closed up and it stays comfortable until the next evening.
       
      Beginning a Project

      Houses incorporating the above features have many advantages. They feel more comfortable, since the additional insulation keeps the interior wall temperatures more stable. The indoor humidity is better controlled, and drafts are reduced. A tightly sealed air/vapor retarder reduces the likelihood of moisture and air seeping through the walls. Such houses are also very quiet because of the extra insulation and tight construction.
       
      There are some potential drawbacks. They may cost more and take longer to build than a conventional home, especially if your builder and the contractors are not familiar with these energy-saving features. Even though the structure may differ only slightly from a conventional home, your builder and the contractors may be unwilling to deviate from what they've always done before. They may need education and training if they have no experience with these systems. Because some systems have thicker walls than a typical home, they may require a larger foundation to provide the same floor space.

      Before beginning a home-building project, carefully evaluate the site and its climate to determine the optimum design and orientation. You may want to take the time to learn how to use some of the energy-related software programs that are available to assist you. Prepare a design that accommodates appropriate insulation levels, moisture dynamics, and aesthetics. Decisions regarding appropriate windows, doors, and HVAC appliances are central to an efficient design. Also evaluate the cost, ease of construction, the builder's limitations, and building code-compliance. Some schemes are simple to construct, while others can be extremely complex and thus more expensive.
       
      An increasing number of builders are participating in the federal government's Building America and Energy Star Homes Programs, which promote energy-efficient houses. Many builders participate so that they can differentiate themselves from their competitors. Construction costs can vary significantly, depending on the materials, construction techniques, contractor profit margin, experience, and the type of HVAC chosen. However, the biggest benefits from designing and building an energy-efficient home are its superior comfort level and lower operating costs. This relates directly to an increase in its real-estate market value.
       
       


      From Elements of an Energy-Efficient House - InterNACHI http://www.nachi.org/energyefficiency.htm#ixzz2i7sCiEhA

      Tuesday, October 15, 2013

      High-Performance Buildings - One Source Real Estate Inspection your InterNACHI Commercial Inspector

      High-Performance Buildings - www.onesourceinspection.com

      Americans spend most of their time inside buildings. We take for granted the shelter, protection, warmth, coolness, air and light that buildings provide, and rarely give a thought to the systems that deliver these services unless there’s a power interruption or other problem. In addition, few Americans understand the environmental consequences of maintaining indoor comfort levels.
       
      Today’s buildings typically use mechanical equipment powered by electricity and fossil fuels for lighting, heating, cooling and maintaining air quality. Last year, buildings in the U.S. consumed more than one-third of the nation’s energy and contributed 36% of the carbon dioxide (CO2) emissions released into the atmosphere. Fossil fuels burned to generate electricity and condition buildings emit other pollutants that cost citizens and insurance companies millions of dollars in healthcare costs each year. Mining and extraction of fossil fuels also have environmental impacts, and instability in pricing causes concern among both business people and homeowners. Creating buildings that use less energy not only reduces and stabilizes costs, but also reduces environmental impact.
       
      The good news is that we have the knowledge and technologies to reduce energy use in our homes and workplaces without compromising comfort and aesthetics. The bad news is that we are not taking full advantage of these advances—buildings are typically designed and operated without considering all their environmental impacts.
       
      Whole-Building Design

      For decades, researchers and innovative designers and builders have created buildings that treat the environment as a resource, rather than as an obstacle to be overcome. Over the years, building professionals have steadily refined the equipment and design strategies used in these environmentally responsive buildings. This evolutionary process and the resulting body of knowledge have led to the concept of “whole-building” design.
       
      In the whole-building approach, designers create a computer model of a structure during the early stages of the design process. Using this model, together with improved communication among the various players in the design/build process, designers can integrate disparate building elements into the most energy-efficient, cost-effective and comfortable building possible. The goal is to minimize the building’s impact on the environment, and, quite often, the results are remarkable, resulting in dramatic savings in energy use without a substantial increase in design or construction costs. As a bonus, these buildings can improve the health, comfort and productivity of their occupants in measurable ways. In commercial buildings, dollar savings from increases in productivity
      and reduced absenteeism can dwarf savings from reduced energy use.

      In 1998, the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) began working with the commercial buildings industry to develop a 20-year plan for research and development of energy-efficient commercial buildings. More than 250 people from 150 building organizations worked together to create a technology roadmap report which recommends strategies for making commercial buildings more energy-efficient. The overall goal of the DOE’s High-Performance Buildings Program is better buildings that save energy and provide a quality, comfortable environment for workers. The program targets the building community, especially building owners, engineers and architects. Building professionals are encouraged to submit plans for new commercial buildings to be a part of the High-Performance Building program. To participate, you must start very early in the design phase—before any other work is done—and must anticipate a 70% or more energy cost-reduction.
       
      The DOE High-Performance Buildings Program

      Design Approach

      Although there's no concrete definition of a high-performance building, InterNACHI defines it as a building with energy, economic and environmental performance that is substantially better than standard practice. It's energy-efficient, so it saves money and natural resources. It's a healthy place to live and work for its occupants, and has relatively low impact on the environment. All this is achieved through a process called whole-building design.

      Design Guidelines

      Whole-building commercial design considers all building components during the design phase. It integrates all the sub-systems and parts of the building to work together. Because all the pieces must fit together, it is essential that the design team be fully integrated from the beginning of the process. The building design team can include architects, engineers, building occupants and owners, and specialists in areas such as indoor air quality, materials, and energy use.
       
      Whole-building design takes into consideration the building structure and systems as a whole, and examines how these systems work best together to save energy and reduce environmental impact. For example, a building that uses extensive daylighting techniques will reduce the amount of heat given off by lighting fixtures, thus allowing for a smaller air-conditioning system. This whole-building philosophy considers site, energy, materials, indoor air quality, acoustics, natural resources, and their interrelation.
       
      This approach brings together building design, energy efficiency, and today's solar technologies to boost your energy savings and make the most of all your building's elements. It reduces the amount of energy required to operate a building compared to conventional buildings. It improves the comfort of building occupants by using aesthetically pleasing architectural designs to brighten up work areas using sunlight rather than electricity, without causing excess glare.

      What are the benefits of whole-building design?
       
      Commercial buildings consume 17% of the total energy consumed in the United States. By creating buildings that use less energy and have lower power demands, greater robustness of the buildings (as well as the power grid) is achieved. This reduces the need for fossil fuels and consequential environmental impact.
       
      Benefits of whole-building design include:
      • reduced energy use by 50% or more;
      • reduced maintenance and capital costs;
      • reduced environmental impact;
      • increased occupant comfort and health; and 
      • increased employee productivity.
      Employee productivity and business profitability are linked. Recent studies have shown an increase in employee productivity when buildings are designed with occupants in mind—natural light, comfortable temperatures, and a quiet work environment being their most important issues. Research suggests that a well-designed workplace can increase employee productivity by 20%. Furthermore, studies also show that a pleasant indoor building environment helps attract desirable tenants for building owners, increasing the number of potential renters for a building.

      How much does it cost?

      There is a growing interest today on the part of commercial building owners, facilities managers, architects, engineers, and builders to design and construct the best possible building for the allotted budget. Depending on the aggressiveness of the design, experience has shown that it costs no more than 10% more to build high-performance buildings. Some high-performance buildings cost less to construct. Sometimes, additional costs can be procured using cost-benefit ratios and life-cycle costing. The added cost (if any) of system investment each year is compared to the cost of fuel saved each year. Total energy costs are, on average, about 50% less than those for conventionally designed buildings. In many cases, the right-sizing of mechanical systems through passive solar design offsets the costs for additional windows and controls.

      Design Approach: Frequently Asked Questions

      1. Will the building look unusual?

      Many owners want to make a statement with whole-building design and sustainable features. Many other owners, however, are creating these buildings at little or no additional cost that appear no different from conventional designs.
       
      2. Is "whole-building" the same as energy-efficiency?
      Energy-efficiency does figure prominently in our designs, but there are many other aspects to design. The whole-building concept looks to integrating all disciplines to meet a set of goals for a building.
       
      3. Are these buildings just for large corporations?
      Many of the early adopters were municipalities and government agencies that recognized the opportunities for life-cycle cost savings. Anyone can benefit from whole-building design.
       
      4. Is there a market demand for whole-building design?
      Yes. Corporations, universities, and government agencies are demonstrating that whole-building design can provide better working environments and cost less to operate. Students, employees, and non-profit community groups are all demanding and campaigning for the adoption of low-energy buildings.
       
      5. If I decide to "go green," won't I have to come up with more money?
      Not necessarily. Some prescriptive requirements, such as use of photovoltaics, may initially drive project costs somewhat higher, but several owners have published data demonstrating their success in procuring green buildings for less than the cost of a conventional building. Look around for incentives. These include incentives from local utility companies tied to energy-efficiency, grants for renewable energy installations, and various tax rebate programs.
       
      6. Isn't whole-building design based on fringe technologies?
      Most projects have achieved good performance using conventional building systems. In many instances, it is the effective integration of conventional systems, rather than the use of a new technology, that conserves resources and improves environmental quality. New technologies are used only after careful consultation with owners and the design team.
       
      7. If it hasn't been done before, isn't it hard to do?
      Whole-building projects are demonstrating that it's not hard. For example, the fact that very few commercial buildings employ natural ventilation does not mean that it cannot effectively deliver satisfactory comfort year-round in many climates. In many circumstances, the techniques were used extensively before widespread use of air conditioning.
       
      8. How can you get high-quality materials and systems and good environmental performance at the same time?
      Removing highly toxic chemicals from a product or designing a fixture to use less water does NOT mean that the product will be less effective or have a shorter life.

      Design Guidelines

      A high-performance commercial building design strategy requires a clear definition of goals and performance benchmarks from the owner, and an inter-disciplinary design and construction approach. Design criteria should be based on environmental and energy cost/benefit analyses and attention to whole-building and system performance

      Pre-Design
      Because all commercial building components must work together successfully long after project completion, it is essential that sufficient time be set aside in the beginning of a project for design team development, goal-setting, and project-planning. A sustainable building can only be accomplished when everyone (the building owner, future occupants, design team) have the same energy and environmental goals for the project from the start. In short, everyone who is affected by this building in a decision-making position should be involved at the project's beginning. Ultimately, the building owner is responsible for setting the goals and their implementation. It is the design team's responsibility to translate goals and budget for the project into measurable benchmarks for design, construction, and operations so the project will be successful.

      Design
      Traditionally, commercial building design choices are based on budget and/or time considerations. Single-building components are added or deleted to meet time or budget constraints without evaluating their impact on total building performance. Yet, basic design goals, such as minimizing energy consumption or maximizing daylight, cannot be done without understanding the impact of interrelations between the parts of the building, including window-glazing systems, the thermal envelope, mechanical system-integration, orientation, and floor-plate proportions. High-performance building design must ensure complete integration to achieve optimal building performance. These interrelations are very complex. As a result, computerized simulation studies are necessary to properly account for interrelationships. Water and resource conservation, along with recycled, reusable and non-toxic, sustainable materials should also be considered in the design stage.
       
      Construction
      Building construction is an act of creation than begins long before the first shovel pierces the ground. It begins with a statement of design intent, followed by creation of a performance program. Once these are approved, the process concludes with drawings and specifications, and then, finally, building commissioning during occupancy. Although simplified, below are some general guidelines:
       
      Statement of Intent — A good statement of intent will clearly set forth the goals of the project, and current and possible future uses for the building, as well as a description of how building systems are to perform. Clearly defined goals and objectives here will help in the bidding process later on.
       
      Performance Program — The performance program is the strategy for implementing the goals established by the statement of intent, such as budget, space planning, integrated building systems, and other specific needs. It will also set performance goals for systems, such as lighting wattage per square foot, and include such amendments as elimination of toxic materials. Several building rating systems exist that can be used to write the performance programs, such as the U.S. Green Building Council's Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design, or the LEED rating system.
       
      Drawings and Specifications — These record the design intent. Most design firms use the format created by the Construction Specifiers Institute (CSI). However, keep in mind that for high-performance buildings, you will need to add "integrated systems drawings" and supporting documents that will illustrate how different building components relate to and impact each other. Specifications that accompany the drawings must clearly explain the design intent, especially if a project includes unusual or innovative practices or requirements.
       
      Building Commissioning — This is the process of ensuring that building systems, such as air-handling equipment, security systems, and elevators, are designed, installed, functionally tested and capable of being operated and maintained according to the owner's operational needs. Commissioning begins in the design stage and extends at least one year into the initial occupancy of the building. This process ensures that the building is operating as designed. It also saves building owners money by keeping equipment and building systems compliant with warranties, prevents future excessive repairs, reconfiguration and replacement costs, employee absenteeism due to uncomfortable work environments with poor air quality, and frequent tenant turnover. 
       
      In summary, the construction of high-performance buildings has numerous benefits, such as the dramatic reduction of greenhouse gas emissions and energy savings.


      From High-Performance Buildings - InterNACHI http://www.nachi.org/highperformancebuilding.htm#ixzz2hriGMgQj