Home Inspection Services

Monday, October 28, 2013

Fire Safety for the Home - www.onesourceinspection.com

Fire Safety for the Home - One Source Real Estate Inspection.

by Nick Gromicko and Kate Tarasenko
 
 
 
The U.S. Fire Administration reports that more than 403,000 home fires occurred in the U.S. in 2008, causing 2,780 deaths and more than 13,500 injuries.  Some fires are caused by issues related to the structure, such as lightning strikes, faulty wiring, furnace malfunctions, and other electrical and heating system-related mishaps. 
 
But most home fires are preventable.  According to an April 2010 report by the National Fire Protection Association, adults over the age of 75 are almost three times more likely to die in a home fire than the rest of the general public.  The NFPA’s fire prevention program promotes the following eight tips that elderly people – and people of all ages – can use.
1.  Plan and practice your escape from fire. 
We’ve heard this advice before, but you can’t be prepared to act in an emergency if you don’t have a plan and everybody knows what that plan is.  Panic and fear can spread as quickly as a fire, so map out an escape route and a meeting place outdoors, and involve even the youngest family members so that everyone can work as a unit to make a safe escape.
If you live in a condo or apartment building, make sure you read the signs posted on your floor advising you of the locations of stairways and other exits, as well as alarm pull stations and fire extinguishers.
2.  Plan your escape around your abilities. 

Keeping a phone by your bedside will allow you to call 911 quickly, especially if the exits of your home are blocked by smoke or flames.  Keep a pair of shoes near your bed, too.  If your home or building has a fire escape, take some time to practice operating it and climbing it.
3.  Smoke alarms save lives. 

If you don’t already have permanently installed smoke alarms hard-wired into your electrical system and located outside each bedroom and on each floor, purchase units and place them in those locations.  Install them using adhesive or screws, but be careful not to touch your screwdriver to any internal wiring, which can cause an electrostatic discharge and disable them. 
Also, install carbon monoxide detectors, which can protect family members from lethal poisoning even before a fire starts.
4.  Give space heaters space.

Whether saving on utility bills by using the furnace infrequently, or when using these portable units for spot heat, make sure you give them at least 3 feet of clearance.  Be sure to turn off and unplug them when you leave or go to bed.  Electrical appliances draw current even when they’re turned off, and a faulty one can cause a fire that can spread through the wires in the walls at a deadly pace.
5.  If you smoke, smoke outside. 

Not only will this keep your family members healthier and your home smelling fresher, it will minimize the chance that an errant ember from your cigarette will drop and smolder unnoticed until it causes damage.
6.  Be kitchen-wise. 

This means monitoring what you have on the stove and keeping track of what’s baking in the oven.  Don’t cook if you’re tired or taking medication that clouds your judgment or makes you drowsy.  Being kitchen-wise also means wearing clothing that will not easily catch on the handles of pots and pans, or graze open flames or heating elements. 
It also means knowing how to put out a grease fire; water will make it spread, but salt or baking soda will extinguish it quickly, as will covering the pot or pan with a lid and turning off the stove.  Always use your cooktop’s vent fan while cooking. 
Keep a small, all-purpose fire extinguisher in a handy place, such as under the sink.  These 3-pound lifesavers are rated “ABC” for their fire-suppressing contents:  “A” puts out ignited trash, wood and paper; “B” acts on grease and other flammable liquids; and “C” deals with small electrical fires.  Read the instructions on these inexpensive devices when you bring them home from the store so that you can act quickly, if the time comes.  If your fire extinguisher is somewhat old because you've yet to use it, turning the canister upside-down and tapping the bottom will help agitate the contents and prevent them from caking, and possibly clogging the nozzle at the time of use.  It's also a good idea to stow an extra fire extinguisher near the bedrooms.  If an emergency arises and you find yourself trapped by an uncooperative window, you can use the canister to smash through it.
7.  Stop, drop and roll. 

Fight the urge to panic and run if your clothes catch fire because this will only accelerate its spread, since fire needs oxygen to sustain and grow.  Tamping out the fire by rolling is effective, especially since your clothes may be on fire on your back or lower body where you may not be immediately aware of it.  If ground space is limited, cover yourself with a blanket to tamp out any flames, and douse yourself with water as soon as you can. 
Additionally, always stay close to the floor during a fire; heat and smoke rise, and breathable air will normally be found at the floor-level, giving you a greater chance of escape before being overcome by smoke and toxic fumes.
Also, before exiting a closed room, be sure to test the doorknob for heat before opening the door.  A very hot doorknob indicates that fire could be lurking just outside; opening the door will feed the fire an added surge of oxygen, potentially causing an explosive backdraft that can be fatal. 
8.  Know your local emergency number. 

People of all ages need to know their emergency number (usually, it’s 911).  Posting it near the phone and putting it on speed-dial will save precious moments when the ability to think clearly may be compromised.
More Tips
  • Make sure your electrical system is updated, and that you have appropriate AFCI and GFCI receptacles.  Have your system inspected by an InterNACHI inspector or a licensed electrician to make sure your electrical needs are not taxing your electrical system.
  • Make sure you have smoke alarms and carbon monoxide detectors installed.  Test them to make sure they’re working properly, and change their batteries at least annually.
  • Check to see that your house number is clearly visible from the street, and unobstructed by any tree branches or structural overhangs.  If first-responders are called to your home to put out a fire, make sure they can find you.
  • Be aware of lit candles.  Never leave them unattended, and always blow them out when leaving home or going to bed.  This is especially important during the holidays when candles are used as holiday decorations.  Also, keep them out of the way of drapes and plants, and out of reach of children and especially pets, whose tails can accidentally knock over a candle or come into contact with its flame.
  • Never use barbecue grills indoors, either for cooking or as a heat source.  The carbon monoxide they emit cannot be adequately vented, and their flammable materials pose safety hazards.  Also, do not use the oven to heat the indoors.  Space heaters are safer and more energy-efficient.  Ask your InterNACHI home inspector to perform an energy audit to find heat leaks, and to suggest low-cost ways to keep your home warm and comfortable during cold weather.
  • Consider getting rid of your electric blanket.  The fire hazards associated with them make the prospect of trading them in for a thick comforter or multiple blankets much less worrisome.  When their embedded cords become bent, the internal wiring can break, causing them to short out and start an electrical fire. This electric blanket shorted out and caught fire, burning the bedding and mattress.  Its user barely escaped serious injury.
  • Be extra-vigilant when using hot pads, hot plates, Bunsen burners and portable cooktops.  They can overheat and burn the surface they’re sitting on, or burn through a cup or pot sitting on top, which can lead to smoke and fire.  Never leave these unattended, and always unplug (or extinguish) them when not in use.
  • Unplug portable electronic devices and other small appliances when not in use.  Coffeemakers, blow dryers and other devices we use daily still draw current when they’re plugged in, even if they’re turned off.  A faulty device can cause an electrical fire that can be devastating.  One family in Boulder, Colo., returned home one day to discover their house burned to the ground; the fire marshal discovered that the cause was a switched-off curling iron that was left plugged into the wall's receptacle  Get into the habit of unplugging, just to be safe.
  • Use extension cords sparingly, and always unplug them when not in use.  Some electrical devices work best when plugged directly into the wall’s receptacle or outlet, especially if they have a ground wire (which you should never cut off).  Devices plugged into extension cords can easily overheat (themselves or the extension cords), damaging wires within walls and weakening your electrical system, potentially causing an electrical fire.  Always check for the UL-listed label on extension cords.  Remember that they also pose a tripping hazard, which is another reason to minimize their use.
  • Clean your clothes dryer’s lint trap after each use.  Your dryer should vent directly to the outdoors. Check to make sure that there are no obstructions in the vent hose, such as birds’ nests, foliage or other debris.  The vent should have a damper to keep wildlife and debris out, but it should not have a screen, which can trap combustibles, allowing them to accumulate, heat up, and possibly catch fire.
  • If you have a fireplace, remember to have it professionally inspected and cleaned periodically by a chimney sweep.  Creosote buildup can cause a fire that may unexpectedly back into the living space.  Make sure your damper is working properly, and that the chimney lining is in good condition.  The next time your InterNACHI inspector inspects your roof, s/he can check for adequate flashing around the chimney, as well as its structural integrity.  Make sure the fire is completely out before you leave the home.  Keep all kindling and combustibles a safe distance away from the mouth of the fireplace.  Make use of a screen at the hearth to prevent embers from escaping.  And avoid burning green wood, which doesn't burn as evenly or safely as dry wood.
Smoke Alarms
All new residential construction requires the installation of smoke alarms, usually on each floor of the home, as well as outside each sleeping area.  Many newer smoke alarms can also detect carbon monoxide.  This silent and odorless killer is one of the primary causes of accidental death because family members can be fatally poisoned while sleeping.
Smoke alarms come in two types.  Photoelectric alarms can sense smoky and smoldering fires.  Ionization alarms are quicker at detecting flames and fast-moving fire.  Dual-sensor smoke alarms combine both these features, and are recommended by the USFA because it’s impossible to predict the type of fire that may erupt in a home.  There are also smoke alarms that vibrate and/or flash strobe lights to alert home dwellers who are vision-impaired or hard of hearing.
The leading U.S. manufacturer of residential smoke alarms, as well as home fire extinguishers, is Kidde.  Their dual-sensor smoke alarms were the subject of a voluntary recall by the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission in the summer of 2009 because of a malfunction caused by an electrostatic discharge created during their installation, rendering them inoperable.  Make sure that you install any portable smoke alarms and carbon monoxide detectors safely, and test them after installation.  You can also ask your local fire department to do this for you.
Many smoke alarms are hard-wired into the home’s electrical system, but may still have batteries for backup in the event of a power outage.  They also typically have a test button. Make sure you test them once a month, and replace the batteries once a year.  If you hear a chirping noise, this is a signal that the batteries are weak and need replacing. 
Some smoke alarms have “nuisance” buttons.  If you burn something that you’re cooking and accidentally set off the alarm, you can press the nuisance button to turn it off.  Remember not to actually disable the alarm; you may forget to reset it later.  Simply clear the room of smoke instead.
 
Rebates and Discounts
Under most standard homeowners and even renters insurance policies today, having smoke alarms, carbon monoxide detectors and fire extinguishers in the home will qualify policyholders for rebates and discounts on their premiums.  Some newer homes now have sprinkler systems, and various municipalities around the U.S. are mandating their installation, depending on the square footage of the home.
 
In summary, installing dual-sensor smoke alarms and carbon monoxide detectors, as well as taking some common-sense precautions and performing regular household maintenance, will help keep your family safe from the destructive and potentially lethal effects of a house fire.  Schedule an inspection with your InterNACHI inspector to see where you can fortify your home against this threat.


From Fire Safety for the Home - InterNACHI http://www.nachi.org/fire-safety-home.htm#ixzz2j3YW7Qr7

Friday, October 18, 2013

Elements of an Energy-Efficient House - www,onesourceinspection.com

Elements of an Energy-Efficient House

Designing and building an energy-efficient home that conforms to the many considerations faced by home builders can be a challenge.  However, at InterNACHI, we believe that any house style can be made to require relatively minimal amounts of energy to heat and cool, and be comfortable. It's easier now to get your architect and builder to use improved designs and construction methods. Even though there are many different design options available, they all have several things in common: a high R-value; a tightly sealed thermal envelope; controlled ventilation; and lower heating and cooling bills.
 
Some designs are more expensive to build than others, but none of them needs to be extremely expensive to construct. Recent technological improvements in building components and construction techniques, and heating, ventilation, and cooling (HVAC) systems, allow most modern energy0saving ideas to be seamlessly integrated into any type of house design without sacrificing comfort, health or aesthetics. The following is a discussion of the major elements of energy-efficient home design and construction systems.
 
The Thermal Envelope

A "thermal envelope" is everything about the house that serves to shield the living space from the outdoors. It includes the wall and roof assemblies, insulation, windows, doors, finishes, weather-stripping, and air/vapor-retarders. Specific items to consider in these areas are described below.
 
Wall and Roof Assemblies

There are several alternatives to the conventional "stick" (wood-stud) framed wall and roof construction now available, and they're growing in popularity. They include:
  • Optimum Value Engineering (OVE)
    This is a method of using wood only where it does the most work, thus reducing costly wood use and saving space for insulation. However, workmanship must be of the highest order since, there is very little room for construction errors.
  • Structural Insulated Panels (SIP)
    These are generally plywood or oriented strand board (OSB) sheets laminated to a core of foam board. The foam may be 4 to 8 inches thick. Since the SIP acts as both the framing and the insulation, construction is much faster than OVE or its older counterpart, "stick-framing." The quality of construction is often superior, too, since there are fewer places for workers to make mistakes.
  • Insulating Concrete Forms (ICF)
    These often consist of two layers of extruded foam board (one inside the house and one outside the house) that act as the form for a steel-reinforced concrete center. This is the fastest and least likely technique to have construction mistakes. Such buildings are also very strong and easily exceed code requirements for tornado- and hurricane-prone areas.
 
Insulation

An energy-efficient house has much higher insulation R-values than required by most local building codes. For example, a typical house in New York state might contain haphazardly installed R-11 fiberglass insulation in the exterior walls and R-19 in the ceiling, while the floors and foundation walls may not be insulated at all. A similar but well-designed and constructed house's insulation levels would be in the range of R-20 to R-30 in the walls (including the foundation) and R-50 and R-70 in the ceilings. Carefully applied fiberglass batt or roll, wet-spray cellulose, or foam insulation will fill wall cavities completely.
 
Air / Vapor Retarders

These are two things that sometimes can do the same job. How to design and install them depend a great deal on the climate and what method of construction is chosen. No matter where you are building, water-vapor condensation is a major threat to the structure of a house. In cold climates, pressure differences can drive warm, moist indoor air into exterior walls and attics. It condenses as it cools. The same can be said for southern climates, just in reverse. As the humid outdoor air enters the walls to find cooler wall cavities, it condenses into liquid water. This is the main reason that some of the old buildings in the South that have been retrofitted with air conditioners now have mold and rotten wood problems.
 
Regardless of your climate, it is important to minimize water vapor migration by using a carefully designed thermal envelope and sound construction practices. Any water vapor that does manage to get into the walls or attics must be allowed to get out again. Some construction methods and climates lend themselves to allowing the vapor to flow towards the outdoors. Others are better suited to letting it flow towards the interior so that the house ventilation system can deal with it.
 
The "airtight drywall approach" and the "simple CS" system are other methods to control air and water-vapor movement in a residential building. These systems rely on the nearly airtight installation of sheet materials, such as drywall and gypsum board, on the interior as the main barrier, and carefully sealed foam board and/or plywood on the exterior.
 
Foundations and Slabs

Foundation walls and slabs should be at least as well-insulated as the living space walls. Uninsulated foundations have a negative impact on home energy use and comfort, especially if the family uses the lower parts of the house as living space. Also, appliances that supply heat as a by-product, such as domestic hot water heaters, washers, dryers and freezers, are often located in basements. By carefully insulating the foundation walls and floor of the basement, these appliances can assist in the heating of the house.
 
Windows

The typical home loses over 25% of its heat through windows. Since even modern windows insulate less than a wall, in general, an energy-efficient home in heating-dominated climates should have few windows on the north, east, and west exposures. A rule-of-thumb is that window area should not exceed 8% to 9% of the floor area, unless your designer is experienced in passive solar techniques. If this is the case, then increasing window area on the southern side of the house to about 12% of the floor area is recommended. In cooling-dominated climates, it's important to select east-, west- and south-facing windows with low solar heat-gain coefficients (these block solar heat gain). A properly designed roof overhang for south-facing windows is important to avoid overheating in the summer in most areas of the continental United States. At the very least, Energy Star-rated windows (or their equivalents) should be specified according to the Energy Star Regional Climatic Guidelines.
 
In general, the best-sealing windows are awning and casement styles, since these often close tighter than sliding types. Metal window frames should be avoided, especially in cold climates. Always seal the wall air/vapor diffusion-retarder tightly around the edges of the window frame to prevent air and water vapor from entering the wall cavities.
 
Air-Sealing

A well-constructed thermal envelope requires that insulating and sealing be precise and thorough. Sealing air leaks everywhere in the thermal envelope reduces energy loss significantly. Good air-sealing alone may reduce utility costs by as much as 50% when compared to other houses of the same type and age. Homes built in this way are so energy-efficient that specifying the correct sizing heating/cooling system can be tricky. Rules-of-thumb system-sizing is often inaccurate, resulting in oversizing and wasteful operation.
 
Controlled Ventilation

Since an energy-efficient home is tightly sealed, it's also important and fairly simple to deliberately ventilate the building in a controlled way. Controlled, mechanical ventilation of the building reduces air moisture infiltration and thus the health risks from indoor air pollutants. This also promotes a more comfortable atmosphere, and reduces the likelihood of structural damage from excessive moisture accumulation.
 
A carefully engineered ventilation system is important for other reasons, too. Since devices such as furnaces, water heaters, clothes dryers, and bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans exhaust air from the house, it's easier to depressurize a tight house, if all else is ignored. Natural-draft appliances, such as water heaters, wood stoves and furnaces may be "back-drafted" by exhaust fans, which can lead to a lethal build-up of toxic gases in the house. For this reason, it's a good idea to only use "sealed-combustion" heating appliances wherever possible, and provide make-up air for all other appliances that can pull air out of the building.
 
Heat-recovery ventilators (HRV) or energy-recovery ventilators (ERV) are growing in use for controlled ventilation in tight homes. These devices salvage about 80% of the energy from the stale exhaust air, and then deliver that energy to the entering fresh air by way of a heat exchanger inside the device. They are generally attached to the central forced-air system, but they may have their own duct system.
 
Other ventilation devices, such as through-the-wall and/or "trickle" vents may be used in conjunction with an exhaust fan. They are, however, more expensive to operate and possibly more uncomfortable to use, since they have no energy-recovery features to pre-condition the incoming air. Uncomfortable incoming air can be a serious problem if the house is in a northern climate, and it can create moisture problems in humid climates. This sort of ventilation strategy is recommended only for very mild to low-humidity climates.
 
Heating and Cooling Requirements

Houses incorporating the above elements should require relatively small heating systems (typically, less than 50,000 BTUs per hour, even for very cold climates). Some have nothing more than sunshine as the primary source of heat energy. Common choices for auxiliary heating include radiant in-floor heating from a standard gas-fired water heater, a small boiler, furnace, or electric heat pump. Also, any common appliance that gives off "waste" heat can contribute significantly to the heating requirements for such houses. Masonry, pellet and wood stoves are also options, but they must be operated carefully to avoid back-drafting.
 
If an air conditioner is required, a small (6,000 BTUs per hour) unit can be sufficient. Some designs use only a large fan and the cooler evening air to cool down the house. In the morning, the house is closed up and it stays comfortable until the next evening.
 
Beginning a Project

Houses incorporating the above features have many advantages. They feel more comfortable, since the additional insulation keeps the interior wall temperatures more stable. The indoor humidity is better controlled, and drafts are reduced. A tightly sealed air/vapor retarder reduces the likelihood of moisture and air seeping through the walls. Such houses are also very quiet because of the extra insulation and tight construction.
 
There are some potential drawbacks. They may cost more and take longer to build than a conventional home, especially if your builder and the contractors are not familiar with these energy-saving features. Even though the structure may differ only slightly from a conventional home, your builder and the contractors may be unwilling to deviate from what they've always done before. They may need education and training if they have no experience with these systems. Because some systems have thicker walls than a typical home, they may require a larger foundation to provide the same floor space.

Before beginning a home-building project, carefully evaluate the site and its climate to determine the optimum design and orientation. You may want to take the time to learn how to use some of the energy-related software programs that are available to assist you. Prepare a design that accommodates appropriate insulation levels, moisture dynamics, and aesthetics. Decisions regarding appropriate windows, doors, and HVAC appliances are central to an efficient design. Also evaluate the cost, ease of construction, the builder's limitations, and building code-compliance. Some schemes are simple to construct, while others can be extremely complex and thus more expensive.
 
An increasing number of builders are participating in the federal government's Building America and Energy Star Homes Programs, which promote energy-efficient houses. Many builders participate so that they can differentiate themselves from their competitors. Construction costs can vary significantly, depending on the materials, construction techniques, contractor profit margin, experience, and the type of HVAC chosen. However, the biggest benefits from designing and building an energy-efficient home are its superior comfort level and lower operating costs. This relates directly to an increase in its real-estate market value.
 
 


From Elements of an Energy-Efficient House - InterNACHI http://www.nachi.org/energyefficiency.htm#ixzz2i7sCiEhA

Tuesday, October 15, 2013

High-Performance Buildings - One Source Real Estate Inspection your InterNACHI Commercial Inspector

High-Performance Buildings - www.onesourceinspection.com

Americans spend most of their time inside buildings. We take for granted the shelter, protection, warmth, coolness, air and light that buildings provide, and rarely give a thought to the systems that deliver these services unless there’s a power interruption or other problem. In addition, few Americans understand the environmental consequences of maintaining indoor comfort levels.
 
Today’s buildings typically use mechanical equipment powered by electricity and fossil fuels for lighting, heating, cooling and maintaining air quality. Last year, buildings in the U.S. consumed more than one-third of the nation’s energy and contributed 36% of the carbon dioxide (CO2) emissions released into the atmosphere. Fossil fuels burned to generate electricity and condition buildings emit other pollutants that cost citizens and insurance companies millions of dollars in healthcare costs each year. Mining and extraction of fossil fuels also have environmental impacts, and instability in pricing causes concern among both business people and homeowners. Creating buildings that use less energy not only reduces and stabilizes costs, but also reduces environmental impact.
 
The good news is that we have the knowledge and technologies to reduce energy use in our homes and workplaces without compromising comfort and aesthetics. The bad news is that we are not taking full advantage of these advances—buildings are typically designed and operated without considering all their environmental impacts.
 
Whole-Building Design

For decades, researchers and innovative designers and builders have created buildings that treat the environment as a resource, rather than as an obstacle to be overcome. Over the years, building professionals have steadily refined the equipment and design strategies used in these environmentally responsive buildings. This evolutionary process and the resulting body of knowledge have led to the concept of “whole-building” design.
 
In the whole-building approach, designers create a computer model of a structure during the early stages of the design process. Using this model, together with improved communication among the various players in the design/build process, designers can integrate disparate building elements into the most energy-efficient, cost-effective and comfortable building possible. The goal is to minimize the building’s impact on the environment, and, quite often, the results are remarkable, resulting in dramatic savings in energy use without a substantial increase in design or construction costs. As a bonus, these buildings can improve the health, comfort and productivity of their occupants in measurable ways. In commercial buildings, dollar savings from increases in productivity
and reduced absenteeism can dwarf savings from reduced energy use.

In 1998, the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) began working with the commercial buildings industry to develop a 20-year plan for research and development of energy-efficient commercial buildings. More than 250 people from 150 building organizations worked together to create a technology roadmap report which recommends strategies for making commercial buildings more energy-efficient. The overall goal of the DOE’s High-Performance Buildings Program is better buildings that save energy and provide a quality, comfortable environment for workers. The program targets the building community, especially building owners, engineers and architects. Building professionals are encouraged to submit plans for new commercial buildings to be a part of the High-Performance Building program. To participate, you must start very early in the design phase—before any other work is done—and must anticipate a 70% or more energy cost-reduction.
 
The DOE High-Performance Buildings Program

Design Approach

Although there's no concrete definition of a high-performance building, InterNACHI defines it as a building with energy, economic and environmental performance that is substantially better than standard practice. It's energy-efficient, so it saves money and natural resources. It's a healthy place to live and work for its occupants, and has relatively low impact on the environment. All this is achieved through a process called whole-building design.

Design Guidelines

Whole-building commercial design considers all building components during the design phase. It integrates all the sub-systems and parts of the building to work together. Because all the pieces must fit together, it is essential that the design team be fully integrated from the beginning of the process. The building design team can include architects, engineers, building occupants and owners, and specialists in areas such as indoor air quality, materials, and energy use.
 
Whole-building design takes into consideration the building structure and systems as a whole, and examines how these systems work best together to save energy and reduce environmental impact. For example, a building that uses extensive daylighting techniques will reduce the amount of heat given off by lighting fixtures, thus allowing for a smaller air-conditioning system. This whole-building philosophy considers site, energy, materials, indoor air quality, acoustics, natural resources, and their interrelation.
 
This approach brings together building design, energy efficiency, and today's solar technologies to boost your energy savings and make the most of all your building's elements. It reduces the amount of energy required to operate a building compared to conventional buildings. It improves the comfort of building occupants by using aesthetically pleasing architectural designs to brighten up work areas using sunlight rather than electricity, without causing excess glare.

What are the benefits of whole-building design?
 
Commercial buildings consume 17% of the total energy consumed in the United States. By creating buildings that use less energy and have lower power demands, greater robustness of the buildings (as well as the power grid) is achieved. This reduces the need for fossil fuels and consequential environmental impact.
 
Benefits of whole-building design include:
  • reduced energy use by 50% or more;
  • reduced maintenance and capital costs;
  • reduced environmental impact;
  • increased occupant comfort and health; and 
  • increased employee productivity.
Employee productivity and business profitability are linked. Recent studies have shown an increase in employee productivity when buildings are designed with occupants in mind—natural light, comfortable temperatures, and a quiet work environment being their most important issues. Research suggests that a well-designed workplace can increase employee productivity by 20%. Furthermore, studies also show that a pleasant indoor building environment helps attract desirable tenants for building owners, increasing the number of potential renters for a building.

How much does it cost?

There is a growing interest today on the part of commercial building owners, facilities managers, architects, engineers, and builders to design and construct the best possible building for the allotted budget. Depending on the aggressiveness of the design, experience has shown that it costs no more than 10% more to build high-performance buildings. Some high-performance buildings cost less to construct. Sometimes, additional costs can be procured using cost-benefit ratios and life-cycle costing. The added cost (if any) of system investment each year is compared to the cost of fuel saved each year. Total energy costs are, on average, about 50% less than those for conventionally designed buildings. In many cases, the right-sizing of mechanical systems through passive solar design offsets the costs for additional windows and controls.

Design Approach: Frequently Asked Questions

1. Will the building look unusual?

Many owners want to make a statement with whole-building design and sustainable features. Many other owners, however, are creating these buildings at little or no additional cost that appear no different from conventional designs.
 
2. Is "whole-building" the same as energy-efficiency?
Energy-efficiency does figure prominently in our designs, but there are many other aspects to design. The whole-building concept looks to integrating all disciplines to meet a set of goals for a building.
 
3. Are these buildings just for large corporations?
Many of the early adopters were municipalities and government agencies that recognized the opportunities for life-cycle cost savings. Anyone can benefit from whole-building design.
 
4. Is there a market demand for whole-building design?
Yes. Corporations, universities, and government agencies are demonstrating that whole-building design can provide better working environments and cost less to operate. Students, employees, and non-profit community groups are all demanding and campaigning for the adoption of low-energy buildings.
 
5. If I decide to "go green," won't I have to come up with more money?
Not necessarily. Some prescriptive requirements, such as use of photovoltaics, may initially drive project costs somewhat higher, but several owners have published data demonstrating their success in procuring green buildings for less than the cost of a conventional building. Look around for incentives. These include incentives from local utility companies tied to energy-efficiency, grants for renewable energy installations, and various tax rebate programs.
 
6. Isn't whole-building design based on fringe technologies?
Most projects have achieved good performance using conventional building systems. In many instances, it is the effective integration of conventional systems, rather than the use of a new technology, that conserves resources and improves environmental quality. New technologies are used only after careful consultation with owners and the design team.
 
7. If it hasn't been done before, isn't it hard to do?
Whole-building projects are demonstrating that it's not hard. For example, the fact that very few commercial buildings employ natural ventilation does not mean that it cannot effectively deliver satisfactory comfort year-round in many climates. In many circumstances, the techniques were used extensively before widespread use of air conditioning.
 
8. How can you get high-quality materials and systems and good environmental performance at the same time?
Removing highly toxic chemicals from a product or designing a fixture to use less water does NOT mean that the product will be less effective or have a shorter life.

Design Guidelines

A high-performance commercial building design strategy requires a clear definition of goals and performance benchmarks from the owner, and an inter-disciplinary design and construction approach. Design criteria should be based on environmental and energy cost/benefit analyses and attention to whole-building and system performance

Pre-Design
Because all commercial building components must work together successfully long after project completion, it is essential that sufficient time be set aside in the beginning of a project for design team development, goal-setting, and project-planning. A sustainable building can only be accomplished when everyone (the building owner, future occupants, design team) have the same energy and environmental goals for the project from the start. In short, everyone who is affected by this building in a decision-making position should be involved at the project's beginning. Ultimately, the building owner is responsible for setting the goals and their implementation. It is the design team's responsibility to translate goals and budget for the project into measurable benchmarks for design, construction, and operations so the project will be successful.

Design
Traditionally, commercial building design choices are based on budget and/or time considerations. Single-building components are added or deleted to meet time or budget constraints without evaluating their impact on total building performance. Yet, basic design goals, such as minimizing energy consumption or maximizing daylight, cannot be done without understanding the impact of interrelations between the parts of the building, including window-glazing systems, the thermal envelope, mechanical system-integration, orientation, and floor-plate proportions. High-performance building design must ensure complete integration to achieve optimal building performance. These interrelations are very complex. As a result, computerized simulation studies are necessary to properly account for interrelationships. Water and resource conservation, along with recycled, reusable and non-toxic, sustainable materials should also be considered in the design stage.
 
Construction
Building construction is an act of creation than begins long before the first shovel pierces the ground. It begins with a statement of design intent, followed by creation of a performance program. Once these are approved, the process concludes with drawings and specifications, and then, finally, building commissioning during occupancy. Although simplified, below are some general guidelines:
 
Statement of Intent — A good statement of intent will clearly set forth the goals of the project, and current and possible future uses for the building, as well as a description of how building systems are to perform. Clearly defined goals and objectives here will help in the bidding process later on.
 
Performance Program — The performance program is the strategy for implementing the goals established by the statement of intent, such as budget, space planning, integrated building systems, and other specific needs. It will also set performance goals for systems, such as lighting wattage per square foot, and include such amendments as elimination of toxic materials. Several building rating systems exist that can be used to write the performance programs, such as the U.S. Green Building Council's Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design, or the LEED rating system.
 
Drawings and Specifications — These record the design intent. Most design firms use the format created by the Construction Specifiers Institute (CSI). However, keep in mind that for high-performance buildings, you will need to add "integrated systems drawings" and supporting documents that will illustrate how different building components relate to and impact each other. Specifications that accompany the drawings must clearly explain the design intent, especially if a project includes unusual or innovative practices or requirements.
 
Building Commissioning — This is the process of ensuring that building systems, such as air-handling equipment, security systems, and elevators, are designed, installed, functionally tested and capable of being operated and maintained according to the owner's operational needs. Commissioning begins in the design stage and extends at least one year into the initial occupancy of the building. This process ensures that the building is operating as designed. It also saves building owners money by keeping equipment and building systems compliant with warranties, prevents future excessive repairs, reconfiguration and replacement costs, employee absenteeism due to uncomfortable work environments with poor air quality, and frequent tenant turnover. 
 
In summary, the construction of high-performance buildings has numerous benefits, such as the dramatic reduction of greenhouse gas emissions and energy savings.


From High-Performance Buildings - InterNACHI http://www.nachi.org/highperformancebuilding.htm#ixzz2hriGMgQj

Sunday, October 13, 2013

Home Safety for the Elderly - One Source Real Estate Inspection your InterNACHI inspector.

Home Safety for the Elderly

Each year, according to estimates by the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), nearly 1 million people over age 65 are treated in hospital emergency rooms for injuries associated with the products they live with and use everyday. The death rate from accidental injuries in the home is approximately three times greater for older people than for the younger population. Specifically, there are 60 deaths per 100,000 persons 65 and older, while there are 20 deaths per 100,000 persons under 65.

Slips and falls are the main cause of injury for older people in the home. The CPSC recommends the use of grab-bars and non-slip mats in the bathtub, handrails on both sides of the stairs, and slip-resistant carpets and rugs. Burns occur from hot tap water and from open flame. The CPSC recommends that consumers turn down the temperature of their water heater to 120 degrees Fahrenheit to help prevent scalds. The CPSC also recommends the installation and maintenance of at least one smoke detector on every floor of the home. Older consumers should consider purchasing nightwear that is flame-resistant and choose garments made of tightly woven fabrics, such as 100% polyester, 100% nylon or 100% wool.
 
Home Safety Checklist for Older Consumers
 
The CPSC believes that many of injuries to elderly persons in their homes result from hazards that are easy to overlook, but also easy to fix. By spotting these hazards and taking some simple steps to correct them, many injuries might be prevented. Use this checklist to spot possible safety problems which may be present in your home. Keep this checklist as a reminder of safe practices, and use it periodically to re-check your home. This checklist is organized by areas in the home. However, there are some potential hazards that need to be checked in more than just one area of your home.
 
ALL AREAS OF THE HOME
 
In all areas of your home, check all electrical and telephone cords; rugs, runners and mats; telephone areas; smoke detectors; electrical outlets and switches; light bulbs; space heaters; woodburning stoves; and your emergency exit plan.
 
CHECK ALL CORDS


QUESTION: Are lamp, extension and telephone cords placed outside the flow of traffic?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: Cords stretched across walkways may cause someone to trip.
  • Arrange furniture so that outlets are available for lamps and appliances without the use of extension cords.
  • If you must use an extension cord, place it on the floor against a wall where people can not trip over it.
  • Move the phone so that telephone cords will not lie where people walk.
QUESTION: Are cords pulled out from beneath furniture and rugs or carpeting?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: Furniture resting on cords can damage them, creating fire and shock hazards. Electric cords which run under carpeting may cause a fire.
  • Remove cords from under furniture or carpeting.
  • Replace damaged and frayed cords.
QUESTION: Are cords attached to the walls, baseboards, etc., with nails or staples?

YES ___ NO ___

Nails and staples can damage cords, presenting fire and shock hazards.
  • Remove nails, staples, etc.
  • Check wiring for damage.
  • Use tape to attach cords to walls or floors.
QUESTION: Are electrical cords in good condition, and not frayed or cracked?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION:  Damaged cords may cause a shock or fire.
  • Replace frayed or cracked cords.
QUESTION: Do extension cords carry more than their proper load, as indicated by the ratings labeled on the cord and the appliance?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION:  Overloaded extension cords may cause fires. Standard 18-gauge extension cords can carry 1,250 watts.
  • If the rating on the cord is exceeded because of the power requirements of one or more appliances being used on the cord, change the cord to a higher-rated one, or unplug some appliances.
  • If an extension cord is needed, use one having a sufficient amp or wattage rating.
CHECK ALL RUGS, RUNNERS AND MATS


QUESTION: Are all small rugs and runners slip-resistant?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION:  The CPSC estimates that in 1982, over 2,500 people 65 and over were treated in hospital emergency rooms for injuries that resulted from tripping over rugs and runners. Falls are also the most common cause of fatal injury for older people.
  • Remove rugs and runners that tend to slide.
  • Apply double-faced adhesive carpet tape or rubber matting to the backs of rugs and runners.
  • Purchase rugs with slip-resistant backing.
  • Check rugs and mats periodically to see if backing needs to be replaced.
  • Place rubber matting under rugs. (Rubber matting that can be cut to size is available.)
  • Purchase new rugs with slip-resistant backing.

    NOTE: Over time, adhesive on tape can wear away. Rugs with slip- resistant backing also become less effective as they are washed. Periodically, check rugs and mats to see if new tape or backing is needed.

QUESTION: Are emergency numbers posted on or near the telephone?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: In case of emergency, telephone numbers for the police, fire department, and the local poison control center, along with a neighbor's number, should be readily available.
  • Write the numbers in large print and tape them to the phone, or place them near the phone where they can be seen easily.
QUESTION: Do you have access to a telephone if you fall, or experience some other emergency which prevents you from standing and reaching a wall phone?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION:
  • Have at least one telephone located where it would be accessible in the event of an accident which leaves you unable to stand.
CHECK SMOKE DETECTORS


QUESTION: Are smoke detectors properly located?

YES ___ NO___

RECOMMENDATION: At least one smoke detector should be placed on every floor of your home.
  • Read the instructions that come with the smoke detector for advice on the best place to install it.
  • Make sure detectors are placed near bedrooms, either on the ceiling or 6 to 12 inches below the ceiling on the wall.
  • Locate smoke detectors away from air vents.
QUESTION: Do you have properly working smoke detectors?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: Many fire injuries and deaths in homes are caused by smoke and toxic gases, rather than the fire itself. Smoke detectors provide an early warning and can wake you in the event of a fire.
  • Purchase a smoke detector if you do not have one.
  • Check and replace batteries and bulbs according to the manufacturer's instructions.
  • Vacuum the grillwork of your smoke detector periodically.
  • Replace any smoke detectors which can not be repaired.
NOTE: Some fire departments or local governments will provide assistance in acquiring or installing smoke detectors.
CHECK ELECTRICAL OUTLETS AND SWITCHES


QUESTION: Are any outlets or switches unusually warm or hot to the touch?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION:  Unusually warm or hot outlets or switches may indicate that an unsafe wiring condition exists.
  • Unplug cords from outlets and do not use the switches.
  • Have an electrician check the wiring as soon as possible. 
 
QUESTION: Do all outlets and switches have cover plates, so that no wiring is exposed? 
 
YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: Exposed wiring presents a shock hazard.
  • Add a cover plate.
 
QUESTION: Are light bulbs the appropriate size and type for the lamp or fixture?
 
 YES ___ NO ___
 
RECOMMENDATION: A bulb of too high a wattage or the wrong type may lead to fire through overheating. Ceiling fixtures, recessed lights, and "hooded" lamps will trap heat.
  • Replace with a bulb of the correct type and wattage. (If you do not know the correct wattage, use a bulb no larger than 60 watts.)

CHECK SPACE HEATERS
 

QUESTION: Are heaters which come with a three-prong plug being used in a three-hole outlet or with a properly attached adapter?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: The grounding feature provided by a three-hole receptacle or an adapter for a two-hole receptacle is a safety feature designed to lessen the risk of shock.

  • Never defeat the grounding feature.
  • If you do not have a three-hole outlet, use an adapter to connect the heater's three-prong plug. Make sure the adapter, ground wire or tab is attached to the outlet.
QUESTION: Are small stoves and heaters placed where they cannot be knocked over, and away from furnishings and flammable materials, such as curtains and rugs?  
 
YES ___ NO ___ 
 
RECOMMENDATION: Heaters can cause fires or serious burns if they cause you to trip or if they are knocked over. 
  • Relocate heaters away from passageways and flammable materials such as curtains, rugs, furniture, etc.
 
QUESTION: If your home has space heating equipment, such as a kerosene heater, a gas heater, or an LP gas heater, do you understand the installation and operating instructions thoroughly?
  
YES ___ NO ___
 
RECOMMENDATION: Unvented heaters should be used with the room door open or a window slightly open to provide ventilation. The correct fuel, as recommended by the manufacturer, should always be used. Vented heaters should have proper venting, and the venting system should be checked frequently. Improper venting is the most frequent cause of carbon monoxide poisoning, and older consumers are at particular risk.
  • Review the installation and operating instructions.
  • Call your local fire department if you have additional questions.


    CHECK WOODBURNING HEATING EQUIPMENT
QUESTION: Is woodburning equipment installed properly?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: Woodburning stoves should be installed by a qualified person, according to local building codes.

  • Local building code officials or fire marshals can provide requirements and recommendations for installation.

    NOTE: Some insurance companies will not cover fire losses if wood stoves are not installed according to local codes.


    CHECK THE EMERGENCY EXIT PLAN
QUESTION: Do you have an emergency exit plan and an alternate emergency exit plan in case of a fire?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: Once a fire starts, it spreads rapidly. Since you may not have much time to get out and there may be a lot of confusion, it is important that everyone knows what to do.

  • Develop an emergency exit plan.
  • Choose a meeting place outside your home so you can be sure that everyone is capable of escape quickly and safely.
  • Practice the plan from time to time to make sure everyone is capable of escape quickly and safely.
    Remember periodically to re-check your home.
 
KITCHEN

In the kitchen, check the range area, all electrical cords, lighting, the stool, all throw rugs and mats, and the telephone area.
CHECK THE RANGE AREA

QUESTION: Are towels, curtains, and other things that might catch fire located away from the range?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: Placing or storing non-cooking equipment, such as potholders, dish towels, and plastic utensils on or near the range may result in fires or burns.
  • Store flammable and combustible items away from the range and oven.
  • Remove any towels hanging on oven handles. If towels hang close to a burner, change the location of the towel rack.
  • If necessary, shorten or remove curtains which could brush against heat sources.
QUESTION: Do you wear clothing with short or close-fitting sleeves while you are cooking?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: The CPSC estimates that 70% of all people who die from clothing fires are over 65 years of age. Long sleeves are more likely to catch fire than are short sleeves. Long sleeves are also more apt to catch on pot handles, overturning pots and pans and causing scalds.
  • Roll back long, loose sleeves or fasten them with pins or elastic bands while you are cooking.
 
QUESTION: Are kitchen ventilation systems or range exhausts functioning properly, and are they in use while you are cooking?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: Indoor air pollutants may accumulate to unhealthful levels in a kitchen where gas or kerosene-fire appliances are in use.
  • Use ventilation systems or open windows to clear air of vapors and smoke.
 
QUESTION: Are all extension cords and appliance cords located away from the sink and range areas?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: Electrical appliances and power cords can cause shock or electrocution if they come in contact with water. Cords can also be damaged by excess heat.
  • Move cords and appliances away from sink areas and hot surfaces.
  • Move appliances closer to wall outlets or to different outlets so you won't need extension cords.
  • If extension cords must be used, install wiring guides so that cords will not hang near sink, range, or working areas.
  • Consider adding new outlets for convenience and safety; ask your electrician to install outlets equipped with ground-fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs) to protect against electric shock. A GFCI is a shock-protection device that will detect electrical fault and shut off electricity before serious injury or death occurs.
For more information on cords, refer to the beginning of the checklist.

QUESTION: Does adequate lighting exist over the stove, sink and countertop work areas, especially where food is sliced?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: Low lighting and glare can contribute to burns and cuts. Improve lighting by:
  • opening curtains and blinds (unless this causes too much glare).
  • using the maximum-wattage bulb allowed by the fixture. (If you do not know the correct wattage for the fixture, use a bulb no larger than 60 watts.)
  • reducing glare by using frosted bulbs, indirect lighting, shades and globes on light fixtures, and partially closing the blinds or curtains.
  • installing additional light fixtures under cabinets and over the countertop.
Make sure that the bulbs you use are the right type and wattage for the light fixture.

QUESTION: Do you have a step stool which is stable and in good repair?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: Standing on chairs, boxes or other makeshift items to reach high shelves can result in falls. The CPSC estimates that in 1982, 1,500 people over 65 were treated in hospital emergency rooms when they fell from chairs on which they were standing.
  • If you don't have a step stool, consider buying one. Choose one with a handrail that you can hold onto while standing on the top step.
  • Before climbing on any step stool, make sure it is fully opened and stable.
  • Tighten screws and braces on the step stool.
  • Discard step stools with broken parts.
Remember: Check all of the product areas mentioned at the beginning of the checklist.

LIVING ROOM/FAMILY ROOM

In the living room/family room, check all rugs and runners, electrical and telephone cords, lighting, the fireplace and chimney, the telephone area, and all passageways.

QUESTION: Are chimneys clear from accumulations of leaves, and other debris that can clog them?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: A clogged chimney can cause a poorly-burning fire to result in poisonous fumes and smoke coming back into the house.
  • Do not use the chimney until the blockage has been removed.
  • Have the chimney checked and cleaned by a registered or licensed professional.
QUESTION: Has the chimney been cleaned within the past year?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: Burning wood can cause a build up of creosote inside the chimney. This tar-like material can ignite and result in a serious chimney fire.
  • Have the chimney checked and cleaned by a registered or licensed professional.

CHECK THE TELEPHONE AREA

For information on the telephone area, refer to the beginning of the checklist.

CHECK PASSAGEWAYS

QUESTION: Are hallways, passageways between rooms, and other heavy traffic areas well lit?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: Shadowed or dark areas can hide tripping hazards.
  • Use the maximum wattage bulb allowed by the fixture. (If you do not know the correct wattage, use a bulb no larger than 60 watts.)
  • Install night lights.
  • Reduce glare by using frosted bulbs, indirect lighting, shades and globes on light fixtures, and by partially closing blinds and curtains.
  • Consider using additional lamps or light fixtures. Make sure that the bulbs you use are the right type and wattage for the light fixture.
QUESTION: Are exits and passageways kept clear?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION:  Furniture, boxes and other items could be an obstruction or tripping hazard, especially in the event of an emergency or fire.
  • Rearrange furniture to open passageways and walkways.
  • Remove boxes and clutter.
Remember: Check all of the product areas mentioned at the beginning of the checklist.
 
BATHROOM

In the bathroom, check bathtub and shower areas, water temperature, rugs and mats, lighting, small electrical appliances, and storage areas for medications.
CHECK BATHTUB AND SHOWER AREAS

QUESTION: Are bathtubs and showers equipped with non-skid mats, abrasive strips, or surfaces that are not slippery?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: Wet, soapy tile and porcelain surfaces are especially slippery and may contribute to falls.
  • Apply textured strips or appliques on the floors of tubs and showers.
  • Use non-skid mats in the tub and shower, and on the bathroom floor.
QUESTION: Do bathtubs and showers have at least one (preferably two) grab bars?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: Grab bars can help you get into and out of your tub or shower, and can help prevent falls.
  • Check existing bars for strength and stability, and repair, if necessary.
  • Attach grab bars, through the tile, to structural supports in the wall, or install bars specifically designed to attach to the sides of the bathtub. If you are not sure how it is done, get someone who is qualified to assist you.
QUESTION: Is the temperature 120 degrees Fahrenheit or lower?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: Water temperature above 120 degrees F can cause tap water scalds.
  • Lower the setting on your hot water heater to "low" or 120 degrees. If you are unfamiliar with the controls of your water heater, ask a qualified person to adjust it for you. If your hot water system is controlled by the landlord, ask the landlord to consider lowering the setting.
NOTE: If the water heater does not have a temperature setting, you can use a thermometer to check the temperature of the water at the tap.
  • Always check water temperature by hand before entering bath or shower.
  • Taking baths, rather than showers, reduces the risk of a scald from suddenly changing water temperatures.
CHECK LIGHTING

QUESTION: Is a light switch located near the entrance to the bathroom?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATIONS: A light switch near the door will prevent you from walking through a dark area.
  • Install a night light. Inexpensive lights that plug into outlets are available.
  • Consider replacing the existing switch with a "glow switch" that can be seen in the dark.
CHECK SMALL ELECTRICAL APPLIANCES

QUESTION: Are small electrical appliances, such as hair dryers, shavers, curling irons, etc., unplugged when not in use?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: Even an appliance that is not turned on, such as a hair dryer, can be potentially hazardous if it is left plugged in. If it falls into water in a sink or bathtub while plugged in, it could cause a lethal shock.
  • Unplug all small appliances when not in use.
  • Never reach into water to retrieve an appliance that has fallen in without being sure the appliance is unplugged.
  • Install a ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) in your bathroom outlet to protect against electric shock.
CHECK MEDICATIONS

QUESTION: Are all medicines stored in their original containers, and are they clearly marked?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: Medications that are not clearly and accurately labeled can be easily mixed up. Taking the wrong medicine, or missing a dosage of medicine you need, can be dangerous.
  • Be sure that all containers are clearly marked with the contents, doctor's instructions, expiration date, and patient's name.
  • Dispose of outdated medicines properly.
  • Request non-child-resistant closures from your pharmacist only when you cannot use child-resistant closures.
NOTE: Many poisonings occur when children visiting grandparents go through the medicine cabinet or grandmother's purse. In homes where grandchildren or other youngsters are frequent visitors, medicines should be purchased in containers with child-resistant caps, and the caps should be properly closed after each use. Store medicines beyond the reach of children.

Remember: Check all of the product areas mentioned at the beginning of the checklist.
 
BEDROOMS

In the bedroom, check all rugs and runners, electrical and telephone cords, and areas around beds.
CHECK AREAS AROUND BEDS

QUESTION: Are lamps and light switches within reach of each bed?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: Lamps or switches located close to each bed will enable people getting up at night to see where they are going.
  • Rearrange furniture closer to switches, or move lamps closer to beds.
  • Install night lights.
QUESTION: Are ash trays, smoking materials, and other fire sources (heaters, hot plates, teapots, etc.) located away from beds and bedding?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: Burns are a leading cause of accidental death among seniors. Smoking in bed is a major contributor to this problem. Among mattress and bedding fire-related deaths in a recent year, 42% were to persons 65 or older.
  • Remove sources of heatandflame from areas around beds.
  • Don't smoke in bed.
QUESTION: Is anything covering your electric blanket when in use?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: Tucking in electric blankets, or placing additional coverings on top of them can cause excessive heat buildup which can start a fire.

QUESTION: Do you avoid tucking in the sides or ends of your electric blanket?

RECOMMENDATION:
  • Use electric blankets according to the manufacturer's instructions.
  • Don't allow anything to be on top of the blanket while it is in use. This includes other blankets or comforters, and even pets sleeping on top of the blanket.
  • Don't set electric blankets so high that they could burn someone who falls asleep while they are on.
QUESTION: Do you ever go to sleep with a heating pad which is turned on?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: Never go to sleep with a heating pad if it is turned on because it can cause serious burns, even at relatively low settings.

QUESTION: Is there a telephone close to your bed?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: In case of an emergency, it is important to be able to reach the telephone without getting out of bed.

Remember: Check all of the product areas mentioned at the beginning of the checklist.

BASEMENT/GARAGE/WORKSHOP/STORAGE AREAS

In the basement, garage, workshop, and storage areas, check lighting, fuse boxes and circuit breakers, appliances and power tools, electrical cords, and flammable liquids.
CHECK LIGHTING

QUESTION: Are work areas, especially areas where power tools are used, well lit?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: Power tools were involved in more 5,200 injuries treated in hospital emergency rooms to people 65 and over in 1982. Three-fourths of these were finger injuries. Good lighting can reduce the chance that you will accidentally cut your finger.
  • Either install additional light, or avoid working with power tools in the area.
 
QUESTION: Can you turn on the lights without first having to walk through a dark area?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: Basements, garages and storage areas can contain many tripping hazards and sharp and pointed tools that can make a fall even more hazardous.
  • Keep an operating flashlight handy.
  • Have an electrician install switches at each entrance to a dark area.

     
  • CHECK THE FUSE BOX OR CIRCUIT BREAKERS
QUESTION: If fuses are used, are they the correct size for the circuit?
 
YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: Replacing a correct-size fuse with a larger size fuse can present a serious fire hazard. If the fuse in the box is rated higher than that intended for the circuit, excessive current will be allowed to flow and possibly overload the outlet and house wiring to the point that a fire can occur.
  • Be certain that correct-size fuses are used. (If you do not know the correct sizes, consider having an electrician identify and label the sizes to be used.)
NOTE: If all, or nearly all, fuses used are 30-amp fuses, there is a chance that some of the fuses are rated too high for the circuit.
 
CHECK APPLIANCES AND POWER TOOLS

QUESTION: Are power tools equipped with a three-prong plug or marked to show that they are double-insulated?
YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: These safety features reduce the risk of an electric shock.
  • Use a properly connected three-prong adapter for connecting a three-prong plug to a two-hole receptacle.
  • Consider replacing old tools that have neither a three-prong plug nor are double-insulated.
QUESTION: Are power tools guards in place?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: Power tools used with guards removed pose a serious risk of injury from sharp edges and moving parts.
  • Replace guards that have been removed from power tools.
 
QUESTION: Has the grounding feature on any three-prong plug been defeated by removal of the grounding pin or by improperly using an adapter?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: Improperly grounded appliances can lead to electric shock.
  • Check with your service person or an electrician if you are in doubt.
 
CHECK FLAMMABLE AND VOLATILE LIQUIDS

QUESTION: Are containers of volatile liquids tightly capped?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: If not tightly closed, vapors may escape that may be toxic when inhaled.
  • Check containers periodically to make sure they are tightly closed.
NOTE: The CPSC has reports of several cases in which gasoline, stored as much as 10 feet from a gas water heater, exploded. Many people are unaware that gas fumes can travel that far.

QUESTION: Are gasoline, paints, solvents and other products that give off vapors and fumes stored away from ignition sources?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: Gasoline, kerosene and other flammable liquids should be stored out of living areas in properly labeled, non-glass safety containers.
  • Remove these products from the areas near heat and flame such as heaters, furnaces, water heaters, ranges, and other gas appliances.
 
STAIRS

For all stairways, check lighting, handrails, and the condition of the steps and coverings.
 
CHECK LIGHTING
 
QUESTION: Are stairs well lit?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: Stairs should be lighted so that each step, particularly the step edges, can be clearly seen while going up and down stairs. The lighting should not produce glare or shadows along the stairway.
  • Use the maximum-wattage bulb allowed by the light fixture. (If you do not know the correct wattage, use a bulb no larger than 60 watts.)
  • Reduce glare by using frosted bulbs, indirect lighting, shades and globes on light fixtures, and by partially closing blinds and curtains.
  • Have a qualified person add additional light fixtures. Make sure that the bulbs you use are the right type and wattage for the light fixture.
QUESTION: Are light switches located at both the top and bottom of the stairs?

YES ___  NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: Even if you are very familiar with the stairs, lighting is an important factor in preventing falls. You should be able to turn on the lights before you use the stairway from either end.
  • If no other light is available, keep an operating flashlight in a convenient location at the top and bottom of the stairs.
  • Install night lights at nearby outlets.
  • Consider installing switches at the top and bottom of the stairs.
QUESTION: Do the steps allow secure footing?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: Worn treads and worn and loose carpeting can lead to insecure footing, resulting in slips and falls.
  • Try to avoid wearing only socks or smooth-soled shoes or slippers when using stairs.
  • Make certain the carpet is firmly attached to the steps all along the stairs.
  • Consider refinishing or replacing worn treads, or replacing worn carpeting.
  • Paint outside steps with paint that has a rough texture, or use abrasive strips.
QUESTION: Are the steps even and of the same size and height?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: Even a small difference in step surfaces or riser heights can lead to falls.
  • Mark any steps which are especially narrow or have risers that are higher or lower than the others. Be especially careful of these steps when using the stairs.
 
QUESTION: Are the coverings on the steps in good condition?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: Worn and torn coverings and nails sticking out from coverings could snag your foot and cause you to trip.
  • Repair coverings.
  • Remove coverings.
  • Replace coverings.
QUESTION: Can you clearly see the edges of the steps?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: Falls may occur if the edges of the steps are blurred or hard to see.
  • Paint edges of outdoor steps white to see them better at night.
  • Add extra lighting.
  • If you plan to carpet your stairs, avoid deep-pile carpeting, and patterned and dark-colored carpeting that can make it difficult to see the edges of the steps clearly.
QUESTION: Is anything stored on the stairway, even temporarily?

YES ___ NO ___

RECOMMENDATION: People can trip over objects left on stairs, particularly in the event of an emergency or fire.
  • Remove all objects from the stairway.
 
REMEMBER PERIODICALLY TO RE-CHECK YOUR HOME.
 
 
Remember, an InterNACHI inspector can answer many of your safety-related questions during your next scheduled inspection.

One Source Real Estate Inspection your InterNACHI inspector.

From Home Safety for the Elderly - InterNACHI http://www.nachi.org/elderlysafety.htm#ixzz2hd9ZMUCr

Saturday, October 12, 2013

Woodpecker Damage Prevention and Inspection - www.onesourceinspection.com

Woodpecker Damage Prevention and Inspection - www.onesourceinspection.com

by Nick Gromicko
 
 
While little is known or documented about the extent of woodpecker damageWoodpecker damage to homes nationwide, the states of Michigan, Louisiana and Wisconsin have estimated the cost of repair to their residences to be in the hundreds of thousands of dollars annually. One survey of woodpecker damage to homes reported an average loss of $300 per incident. Such destruction is rare in urban areas, but it can be extensive in suburban and wooded areas, even where woodpeckers seem to have plenty of natural alternatives to houses. InterNACHI inspectors can assist their clients with some tips to locate and address damage, as well as discourage these sometimes troublesome birds.
Distinctive Species
Woodpeckers are a subfamily of Picidae birds, known for their long, sticky tongues, which they use for extracting food, and their strong bills, which they use for drilling and drumming on trees. Twenty-one species are found in the United States and many others are found worldwide, with the exception of Australasia and Oceania. Woodpeckers are generally 7 to 15 inches (17 to 40 cm) long, have short legs, sharp-clawed toes and stiff tails. Most woodpeckers feed on wood-boring insects, insects on trees and the ground, vegetable matter, wild berries and tree sap.
Beyond Cosmetic Damage
Much of the damage inflicted to structures is caused specifically by the Northern Flicker (Colaptes auratus), Northern Flicker woodpeckerwhich can be identified in flight by a yellow or salmon tint under the wings and tail feathers, and a black or red mustache extending from the gape of the beak to below the eyes. The hairy woodpecker (Picoides villosus) and the downy woodpecker (Picoides pubescens) can also be destructive.
Woodpecker damage, in addition to being problematic in itself, also encourages infestation of insects and other wildlife by providing an entry point into the structure.  These same avenues allow rainwater to invade the structure, which can lead to mold growth and other damaging and hazardous conditions.
Wood is not the only building material at risk of attack by woodpeckers. The birds may even pierce plumbing and electrical lines behind a house’s siding. In addition to homes, inspectors and homeowners should be on the lookout for serious woodpecker damage to barns and other outbuildings that are not consistently inhabited or monitored, as well as summer and vacation homes that are vacant for part of the year.
Telltale Signs of Woodpecker Damage
Woodpecker attacks can be categorized into the following general types:
  • foraging holes, which may appear as small, deep holes in a nearly straight horizontal or vertical line, or in long trenches of 10 cm or more in length. foraging holesThe woodpecker drills these configurations in search of insects. New construction is typically more prone to insect infestation than well-seasoned wood at least two years old;
  • drumming holes, appearing as many small, shallow holes in a cluster, or in wider, cone-shaped depressions along the corners or fascia and trim boards of a house. Woodpeckers also drum on metallic surfaces, such as aluminum siding, metal downspouts, gutters, chimneys, vents and antennae poles. A male drums to signal a potential mate by loudly and rapidly tapping on a resonating material during the spring breeding season, although he may drum at other times of the year to announce his claim to a territory. While drumming damage is typically minimal, the noise can be bothersome for building occupants, especially in the early morning when they’re trying to sleep; andexcavation hole; photo courtesy of the U.S. Forest Service
  • excavation (nesting or roosting) holes, appearing as deep, round holes 3 to 5cm in diameter. Warm insulation and easily chiseled siding make houses attractive to woodpeckers in search of a place to create a nest for their young. To create its characteristic upside-down L-shaped den, the bird must first get through the siding, sheathing and plywood, creating large, deep holes that account for the most troublesome type of woodpecker damage. Woodpeckers often make several nesting attempts, beginning an excavation only to abandon it and renew the process in a more suitable location. In this fashion, a house may suffer a number of deep holes from the efforts of one determined bird. Nesting holes are excavated at the start of the breeding season, usually from late April into May. Roosting holes are usually built in the late summer and fall in preparation for winter.  
Preventing Woodpecker Damage
Fortunately, woodpecker damage can be mitigated through exclusion methods. These methods should be implemented as soon as the bird becomes a pest, as woodpecker behavior patterns are difficult to break once they’ve been allowed to establish.
Inspectors can pass along the following exclusion tips to their clients:
  • Place cavity-type nest boxes on buildings in the vicinity of damage. Not onTwo methods of attaching 3/4–inch bird netting to prevent woodpecker damage:  a) netting is stretched from the outer edge of the eaves and back to the building; b) a curtain of netting is stretched parallel to the side of the building. (Photo courtesy of UC-Davis)ly will this measure encourage woodpeckers to abandon houses for nest boxes, but once there, they will defend their territory and discourage other woodpeckers from approaching. Nest boxes should be shaped and sized for the species of woodpecker that is drilling holes, incorporating a front-sloping, hinged roof to shed rain. Fill the box with sawdust to encourage the bird to excavate it to the desired level. Note that while this measure will discourage woodpecker roosting and nesting, it will not prevent the birds from foraging or drumming on the house.
  • Install some netting. To control bird pests, the University of California's Agriculture and Natural Resources Integrated Pest Management Program recommends placing lightweight, 3/4-inch (1.9 cm) plastic mesh or screen material over the area that woodpeckers may be damaging.  Hang the netting from the outside edge of the eave down the side of the house to prevent woodpeckers from reaching the siding. Leave a gap of space of at least 3 inches (7.6 cm) between the mesh and the building's surface so that the birds cannot cause damage through the mesh (see diagrams above right).
  • Build with construction materials that do not attract woodpeckers, especially in wooded areas. Clapboard and non-wood siding are best. According to a study nest box; photo © 2009 American Artifacts and Richard Van Vleckconducted by Cornell University, the building material that is most prone to damage is grooved plywood siding, followed by shakes, tongue-and-groove, and board-and-batten.
  • Paint wood siding, rather than stain it. The Cornell University study found that stained-wood houses were significantly more prone to woodpecker attack (79% incidence) than painted wood (29%). In the wooded areas surveyed, 97% of the stained houses showed woodpecker damage. Researchers believe that paint is more effective because it fills in the small gaps in wooden siding that can harbor insects upon which woodpeckers feed, and paint is available in light colors, which woodpeckers tend to avoid.
  • If it doesn’t pose a safety hazard to people, structures or utility lines, allow dead branches to remain on trees. Branches provide woodpeckers with a place to build nests and forage, limiting their need to use a nearby house for such purposes.
  • Apply insecticides or wood preservatives to kill the insects that attract woodpeckers. They will not expend energy searching for insects in an uninfested building.
  • If it doesn’t cause structural damage, remove or fill in ledges, cracks and crevices near the site of the woodpecker holes, as these can be used as toeholds for woodpeckers to grasp the structure.
  • Deaden or dull the drumming sound caused by woodpeckers by placing insulation or other batting material behind the siding where they peck.
  • Cover holes with shiny aluminum flashing. Woodpeckers in search of food or a nesting location will not peck at metal, although they may use it to drum. Holes will also attract other woodpeckers. Do not cover an existing nest, as you will entrap and kill birds already inside.
  • Without physically harming them, try to harass or scare the woodpecker using one or more of the following methods:
    • a garden hose. You can set the hose at an angle so it can be quickly activated when you hear the drumming sound. The bird will leave immediately and might not return;
    • install one or two shaving mirrors attached flat on the wood with the enlarging lens pointing outward to frighten the woodpeckers. Mylar® tape, pie tins and other reflective devices may also be hung around the damage site so that they blow with the wind; 
    • hang hawk mobiles from the eaves near the damaged area. Construct them from dark cardboard, Styrofoam™ or plywood so that they have a wingspan of about 22 inches (55 cm) and a length of 11 inches (27 cm); and
    • make loud noises by banging pots and pans, yelling, or shooting cap guns.
Do Not Try This at Home
Homeowners should avoid the following common yet ineffective or even illegal woodpecker exclusion practices:
  • applying chemicals with objectionable tastes or smells. Woodpeckers do not ingest or taste the wood they chisel away with their bills, and they have bristle-like feathers over their nostrils to prevent wood particles from being inhaled. Various chemicals, such aCourtesy of U.S. Forest Services odorous and toxic creosote and pentachlorophenol, have been tested on utility poles to discourage woodpeckers with either no effect or no cost-effectiveness. Naphthalene (mothballs) is also ineffective in outdoor, unconfined settings;
  • installing owl effigies or rubber snakes, which provides only temporary relief, according to research conducted by Colorado State University. Note in the photo at right the ineffective owl decoy pictured to the left of a cluster of large woodpecker holes; and
  • shooting, poisoning, trapping or killing woodpeckers. Woodpeckers are a federally protected bird under the North American Migratory Bird Act, and lethal action against them requires state and/or federal permits issued by the Law Enforcement Division of the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service upon the recommendation of USDA-APHIS-Wildlife Services personnel. The unlawful killing of woodpeckers is punishable by fines and incarceration, especially for killing red-cockaded woodpeckers (Picoides borealis) or ivory-billed woodpeckers (Campephilus principalis), which are on the Endangered Species List.
In summary, woodpecker damage to houses in certain areas is common and inconvenient, but InterNACHI inspectors whose clients complain of problems from these birds can advise them of the benefits of using appropriate building materials, as well as effective (and legal) techniques to discourage pesky woodpeckers from causing future damage.


From Woodpecker Damage Prevention and Inspection - InterNACHI http://www.nachi.org/woodpecker-damage-prevention-inspection.htm#ixzz2hYzKQYOs