Termite Control in the Home - One Source Home Inspection your CA InterNACHI Certified Home Inspector

Termite Control in the Home - http://www.onesourceinspection.com/

Wood-destroying insects and other organisms can cause serious problems in the wooden structural components of a house, and may go undetected for a long period of time.

 

New Construction

 

All chemical soil treatments, bait systems, and chemical wood treatment must be approved by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and applied in accordance with the EPA label's instructions. In some cases, it is not feasible for a builder to arrange for soil treatment. In this regard, the International Residential Code (IRC) by the International Code Council allows a builder to utilize pressure-treated wood as a measure of termite protection. If pressure-treated wood is used, however, it must be used in all framing members up to and including the top plate of the first floor's level wall. This includes the sub-floor and floor joists of the first floor. The use of pressure-treated wood in only the sill plate is not acceptable. In such cases, the builder must provide the lender with a letter stating that the house is protected from termites by the use of pressure-treated wood. The builder must also provide the home buyer with a one-year warranty against termites. The use of post-construction soil treatment where the chemicals are applied only around the perimeter of the foundation is NOT acceptable in new construction.

 

Appraiser’s Observations

 

Appraisers are to observe all areas of the house and other structures/areas within the legal boundaries of the property that have potential for infestation by termites and other wood-destroying organisms, including the bottoms of exterior doors and frames, wood siding in contact with the ground, and crawlspaces. Mud tunnels running from the ground up the side of the house may indicate termite infestation. Observe the eaves and gable vents and wood window sills for indication of the entrance of swarming termites, and note excessive dampness or large areas where the vegetation is dead. Evidence of active termite infestation must be noted.

 

Termites
 

Subterranean termites are the most damaging insects of wood. Their presence is hard to notice, and damage usually is found before the termites are seen. Prevent infestations because if they occur, they will almost always need professional pest-control service.

 

Signs of Infestation

 

Hire a qualified InterNACHI inspector to inspect for termites or other wood-destroying organisms. Generally, the first sign of infestation is the presence of swarming termites on the window or near indoor light. If they are found inside the house, it almost always means that they have infested. Other signs that may be found are termite wings on window sills or in cobwebs, and shelter tubes, which are tunnels constructed by the termites from soil or wood and debris. Usually, wood damage is not found at first, but when it is found, it definitely reveals a termite infestation. Anywhere wood touches soil is a possible entry into a home for termites. Examine wood which sounds dull or hollow when struck by a screwdriver or hammer. Inspect suspected areas with a sharp, pointed tool, such as an ice pick, to find termite galleries or their damage.

 

Control

 

Control measures include reducing the potential infestation, preventing termite entry, and applying chemicals for remedial treatment.

 

Inspection

 

Inspect thoroughly to determine if there is an infestation, damage, and/or conditions that could invite a termite attack, or the need for remedial control measures. The tools and equipment needed for an inspection include a flashlight, ice pick or sharp-pointed screwdriver, ladder, and protective clothing. Always hire an InterNACHI inspector for your inspection needs, as they are trained by the highest standards in the inspection industry.

 

Outdoors

 

Check the foundation of the house, garage and other buildings for shelter tubes coming from the soil. Look closely around porches, connecting patios, sidewalks, areas near kitchens and bathrooms, and hard-to-see places. Check window and door frames, and where utility services enter the house for termite infestation or wood decay. Also, look behind shrubbery and plants near walls. Pay special attention to areas where earth and wood meet, such as fences, stair carriages and trellises. Open and check any exterior electrical meter or fuse box set into the wall, a common point of infestation.

 

Indoors

 

Carefully check all doors, window facings, baseboards, and hardwood flooring. Discoloration or stains on walls or ceilings may mean that water is leaking and can decay wood, and this can aid termite infestation. It is very important to inspect where plumbing and utility pipes enter the foundation and flooring. Also, examine the attic for shelter tubes, water leakage, and wood damage.

.

Prevention  Many termite problems can be prevented. The most important thing to do is to deny termites access to food (wood), moisture and shelter. Follow these suggestions: have at least a 2-inch clearance between the house and planter boxes, or soil-filled porches; eliminate all wood-to-soil contact, such as trellises, fence posts, stair casings and door facings (they can be put on masonry blocks or on treated wood); separate shrubbery from the house to help make it easier to inspect the foundation line; use wolmanized wood (pressure-treated wood) so that rain will not rot it; seal openings through the foundation; remove wood scraps and stumps from around the foundation; have at least 12 to 18 inches of clearance between floor beams and the soil underneath.

 

Chemical Treatment

 

Termite treatment often requires specialized equipment. Therefore, it is recommended that you always use the services of a pest control operator because he is familiar with construction principles and practices, has the necessary equipment, and knows about subterranean termites.

 

Exterminating Termites

If you think you have a termite infestation in your house, you need to call a structural pest control company to conduct a professional inspection. To find a company, ask friends or coworkers for recommendations, or check the Yellow Pages. If the inspection finds evidence of drywood termites, you have several options, depending on the degree of infestation. Fumigation and heating of the entire house are the only options that ensure eradication in the entire structure. If the infestation is contained in a small area, local or spot control may be effective. However, hidden infestations in other parts of the structure will not be eradicated.

 

Total (Whole-House) Eradication 

 

For the heat method, pets, plants, and other items that might be damaged by high temperatures must be removed. The house is then covered with tarps, and hot air is blown into the tarp until the inside temperature reaches 140° F to 150° F, and the temperature of the structural timbers reaches 120° F. The time to complete this procedure varies greatly from one structure to another, depending on factors such as the building's construction and the weather conditions. The procedure may not be practical for structures that cannot be heated evenly.

 

Local or Spot Control

 

Local or spot-control methods include the use of pesticides, electric current, extreme cold, localized heat, microwave energy, or any combination of these methods. Local or spot control also includes the removal and replacement of infested structural timber. These methods are intended to remove or kill termites only within the specific targeted area, leaving open the possibility of other undetected infestations within the structure. These treatments are NOT designed for whole-house eradication. Any pest control company that claims whole-house results with local or spot control methods is guilty of false advertising and should be reported.

 

Local or spot treatment with pesticides involves drilling and injecting pesticides into infested timbers, as well as the topical application of toxic chemicals. The electric-current method involves delivering electric energy to targeted infestations. For the extreme cold method, liquid nitrogen is pumped into wall voids adjacent to suspected infestation sites, reducing the area to -20° F. The localized heat method involves heating infested structural timbers to 120° F. The microwave method kills termites by directing microwaves into termite-infested wood.

 

If you see the following signs in your house, you might have termites:

 
• sawdust-like droppings;
• dirt or mud-like tubes or trails on the structure;
• damaged wood members (like window sills); and
• swarming winged insects within the structure, especially in the spring or fall

 

Zip Code Coverage Area:

 

95301, 93602, 93204, 93604, 93669, 93605, 93606, 93725, 93745, 93208, 93609, 95307, 93610, 93611, 93612, 93613, 93619, 93210, 93620, 95317, 93622, 93623, 93701, 93702, 93703, 93704, 93705, 93706,  93707, 93708, 93709, 93710, 93711, 93712, 93714, 93715, 93716, 93717, 93718, 93720, 93721, 93722, 93723, 93724, 93725, 93726, 93727, 93728, 93829, 03730, 93740, 93741, 93744, 93745, 93747, 93750, 93755, 93760, 93761, 93764, 93765, 93771, 93772, 93773, 93774, 93775, 93776, 93777, 93778, 93779, 93780, 93784, 93786, 93790, 93791, 93792, 93793, 93794, 93844, 93888, 93626, 95020, 95021, 95023, 95023 93230, 93232, 95324, 93628, 93234, 93630, 95328, 93631, 93242, 95333, 93245, 93246, 94550, 94551, 93635, 93636, 93637, 93638, 93639, 93725, 95338, 93640, 95340, 95341, 95343, 95344, 95348, 95350, 95351, 95352, 95353, 95354, 95355, 95356, 95357, 95358, 95397, 93642, 93643, 93645, 93644, 93648, 95363, 95365, 93651, 93653, 93654, 93667, 93274, 93275, 95380, 95381, 95382,

 

Attic Pull-Down Ladders - One Source Real Estate Inspection your CA InterNACHI Certified Home Inspector

Attic Pull-Down Ladders - http://www.onesourceinspection.com/

by Nick Gromicko

 

 

Attic pull-down ladders, also called attic pull-down stairways, are collapsible ladders that are permanently attached to the attic floor. Occupants can use these ladders to access their attics without being required to carry a portable ladder.

 

Common Defects

 

Homeowners, not professional carpenters, usually install attic pull-down ladders. Evidence of this distinction can be observed in consistently shoddy and dangerous work that rarely meets safety standards. Some of the more common defective conditions observed by inspectors include:

• cut bottom cord of structural truss. Often, homeowners will cut through a structural member in the field while installing a pull-down ladder, unknowingly weakening the structure. Structural members should not be modified in the field without an engineer’s approval;
• fastened with improper nails or screws. Homeowners often use drywall or deck screws rather than the standard 16d penny nails or ¼” x 3” lag screws. Nails and screws that are intended for other purposes may have reduced shear strength and they may not support pull-down ladders;
• fastened with an insufficient number of nails or screws. Manufacturers provide a certain number of nails with instructions that they all be used, and they probably do this for a good reason. Inspectors should be wary of “place nail here” notices that are nowhere near any nails;
• lack of insulation. Hatches in many houses (especially older ones) are not likely to be weather-stripped and/or insulated. An uninsulated attic hatch allows air from the attic to flow freely into the home, which may cause the heating or cooling system to run overtime. An attic hatch cover box can be installed to increase energy savings;
• loose mounting bolts. This condition is more often caused by age rather than installation, although improper installation will hasten the loosening process;
• attic pull-down ladders are cut too short. Stairs should reach the floor; 
• attic pull-down ladders are cut too long. This causes pressure at the folding hinge, which can cause breakage;
• improper or missing fasteners;
• compromised fire barrier when installed in the garage;
• attic ladder frame is not properly secured to the ceiling opening;
• closed ladder is covered with debris, such as blown insulation or roofing material shed during roof work. Inspectors can place a sheet on the floor beneath the ladder to catch whatever debris may fall onto the floor; and
• cracked steps. This defect is a problem with wooden ladders.
• In sliding pull-down ladders, there is a potential for the ladder to slide down quickly without notice. Always pull the ladder down slowly and cautiously. 

Safety tip for inspectors: Place an "InterNACHI Inspector at work!" stop sign nearby while mounting the ladder.

  Relevant Codes
The 2009 edition of the International Building Code (IBC) and the 2006 edition of the International Residential Code (IRC) offer guidelines regarding attic access, although not specifically pull-down ladders. Still, the information might be of some interest to inspectors.

2009 IBC (Commercial Construction):
1209.2 Attic Spaces. An opening not less than 20 inches by 30 inches (559 mm by 762 mm) shall be provided to any attic area having a clear height of over 30 inches (762 mm). A 30-inch (762 mm) minimum clear headroom in the attic space shall be provided at or above the access opening.
2006 IRC (Residential Construction):
R807.1 Attic Access. Buildings with combustible ceiling or roof construction shall have an attic access opening to attic areas that exceed 30 square feet (2.8m squared) and have a vertical height of 30 inches (762 mm) or more. The rough-framed opening shall not be less than 22 inches by 30 inches, and shall be located in a hallway or readily accessible location. A 30-inch (762 mm) minimum unobstructed headroom in the attic space shall be provided at some point above the access opening.

Tips that inspectors can pass on to their clients:

• Do not allow children to enter the attic through an attic access. The lanyard attached to the attic stairs should be short enough that children cannot reach it. Parents can also lock the attic ladder so that a key or combination is required to access it.
• If possible, avoid carrying large loads into the attic. While properly installed stairways may safely support an adult man, they might fail if he is carrying, for instance, a bag full of bowling balls. Such trips can be split up to reduce the weight load.
• Replace an old, rickety wooden ladder with a new one. Newer aluminum models are often lightweight, sturdy and easy to install.

In summary, attic pull-down ladders are prone to a number of defects, most of which are due to improper installation.

 

Zip Code Coverage Area:

 

95301, 93602, 93204, 93604, 93669, 93605, 93606, 93725, 93745, 93208, 93609, 95307, 93610, 93611, 93612, 93613, 93619, 93210, 93620, 95317, 93622, 93623, 93701, 93702, 93703, 93704, 93705, 93706,  93707, 93708, 93709, 93710, 93711, 93712, 93714, 93715, 93716, 93717, 93718, 93720, 93721, 93722, 93723, 93724, 93725, 93726, 93727, 93728, 93829, 03730, 93740, 93741, 93744, 93745, 93747, 93750, 93755, 93760, 93761, 93764, 93765, 93771, 93772, 93773, 93774, 93775, 93776, 93777, 93778, 93779, 93780, 93784, 93786, 93790, 93791, 93792, 93793, 93794, 93844, 93888, 93626, 95020, 95021, 95023, 95023 93230, 93232, 95324, 93628, 93234, 93630, 95328, 93631, 93242, 95333, 93245, 93246, 94550, 94551, 93635, 93636, 93637, 93638, 93639, 93725, 95338, 93640, 95340, 95341, 95343, 95344, 95348, 95350, 95351, 95352, 95353, 95354, 95355, 95356, 95357, 95358, 95397, 93642, 93643, 93645, 93644, 93648, 95363, 95365, 93651, 93653, 93654, 93667, 93274, 93275, 95380, 95381, 95382,

 

How To Get the Most Value Out of your Home Inspection - Use One Source Real Estate Inspection your CA InterNACHI Certified Home Inspector

How To Get The Most Value Out Of Your Home Inspection - http://www.onesourceinspection.com/

Zillow, Contributor

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Once an offer on a property is accepted, most buyers hire a professional home inspector to assess the condition of the home. The inspector will write a detailed report for the buyer to use in deciding how to proceed with the purchase. Should the buyer cancel the contract and terminate the purchase; ask for the seller to complete repairs; or request a price reduction or purchase credit from the seller to cover repairs?

Unfortunately, many buyers fail to realize the importance of the home inspection. Keeping the factors below in mind can help ensure that you get the most value from the process.

Attend the inspection

Many buyers let their real estate agent handle the process and don’t even attend the inspection. This is a huge mistake. Most real estate sales professionals are going to do a great job for you, but if you rely on them to handle this process alone, then you aren’t going to hear the inspector point out any issues that might cause you to think again about whether it is the right property for you.

Check the inspector’s credentials

In many states an inspector doesn’t need any formal inspection education and may not have to be licensed or bonded. In order to make sure your inspector is a competent professional, you should do a little research on your state’s requirements, certifications and professional designations. Then question, and verify, the experience and knowledge of your inspector. If you don’t, you might get a really bad inspection report that fails to find important issues.

Inspect the home for yourself

Most of the time a home inspection is only the second or third time a buyer has walked through the property — and probably the first time with a few hours to really look around. This is the most expensive purchase you will ever make. Doesn’t it make sense to do many detailed reviews of the property before you make the final decision to proceed forward with your purchase? Bring a friend or family member along for an additional set of eyes. If you discover something that makes you second guess whether it is the right property for you, you’ll be glad you found it before you closed escrow.

Make a list of costs

At the home inspection, separately from the inspector, you should add up all the costs of items you want to repair, replace, paint, improve, landscape, etc. Adding up all those costs, plus getting bids and estimates to make those repairs and upgrades, will give you a better feel for how much you will be spending on the property once you take ownership.

Negotiate repairs

With your inspection report in hand — plus your list of needed improvements and the assistance of your real estate sales professional — you can request that the seller make repairs. The seller may say no, give you a purchase credit or repair some items. But the more detailed your list, the better the chances the seller will at least give a little — and maybe a lot.

 

Zip Code Coverage Area:

 

95301, 93602, 93204, 93604, 93669, 93605, 93606, 93725, 93745, 93208, 93609, 95307, 93610, 93611, 93612, 93613, 93619, 93210, 93620, 95317, 93622, 93623, 93701, 93702, 93703, 93704, 93705, 93706,  93707, 93708, 93709, 93710, 93711, 93712, 93714, 93715, 93716, 93717, 93718, 93720, 93721, 93722, 93723, 93724, 93725, 93726, 93727, 93728, 93829, 03730, 93740, 93741, 93744, 93745, 93747, 93750, 93755, 93760, 93761, 93764, 93765, 93771, 93772, 93773, 93774, 93775, 93776, 93777, 93778, 93779, 93780, 93784, 93786, 93790, 93791, 93792, 93793, 93794, 93844, 93888, 93626, 95020, 95021, 95023, 95023 93230, 93232, 95324, 93628, 93234, 93630, 95328, 93631, 93242, 95333, 93245, 93246, 94550, 94551, 93635, 93636, 93637, 93638, 93639, 93725, 95338, 93640, 95340, 95341, 95343, 95344, 95348, 95350, 95351, 95352, 95353, 95354, 95355, 95356, 95357, 95358, 95397, 93642, 93643, 93645, 93644, 93648, 95363, 95365, 93651, 93653, 93654, 93667, 93274, 93275, 95380, 95381, 95382,

 

Evaluating Homes Built Using Alternative Building Methods - One Source Real Estate Inspection your CA InterNACHI Certified Home Inspector

Evaluating Homes Built Using Alternative Building Methods - http://www.onesourceinspection.com/

by Nick Gromicko and Kenton Shepard

 

 

What do you say when you get a call to inspect a home built using a method with which you’re not familiar, such as rammed-earth, earth-berm, "earthship" or strawbale? How about structural insulated panels (SIPs) or insulating concrete forms (ICFs)?
What do you charge to inspect something you don’t know how to inspect?
Do you charge less because you don’t know about this construction method, or do you charge more because you charge according to your level of fear?
The advantage you have in this situation is that when it comes to homes built using these unusual methods, few other inspectors know how to inspect them, as well. Once you’ve learned the secrets of these homes, you’ve added another niche to your business.
Pricing
You should charge more -- considerably more, even double. Explain to the client that inspecting unusual homes means taking on additional liability. We’ll talk more about that in a moment.
You can also explain that research requirements are greater, which is true.
Lastly, once you’ve done an inspection like this, you’ve usually done more than anyone else around, and so you’ve suddenly become the most experienced inspector in dealing with these unusual homes.
Liability
Although, at first, it might seem that inspecting a home built using a method with which you’re not familiar would present high liability, in almost all of these types of homes, understanding them and finding key problems would require you to have been there during construction.
You can’t tell what forming methods were used to form and tamp the walls of a rammed earth home once it’s complete. You don’t know what soil mixture was used.
You can’t tell by looking at the interior wall coverings of a strawbale home whether plumbing pipes were routed through the bales, or installed in a chase beneath the lowest course of bales.
You can’t tell by looking what structural and waterproofing methods were used to seal a concrete dome covered with 3 feet of soil.
These are the reasons that you disclaim those parts of the building that are hidden or which require specialized knowledge. In wanting to provide our clients with good service and value for their money, some of us are hesitant to disclaim important home systems.
You have to be honest with your client and with yourself. Trying to guess your way through an inspection can cost your client a lot of money if you make a mistake -- and maybe not just your client.
Research
When you inspect a home built using unusual methods, give yourself as much time as possible before the inspection. You are going to do some research, and you should include your time in your fee.
Most inspectors do little or no research when they prepare to inspect a conventional home.  Here are some ways to proceed.

• Do some online research. No matter how unusual the home is, you can usually find information about their construction online. In addition to articles about their construction, you may find contractors willing to discuss the ways that they can fail.

Explain to these specialized contractors that people are hesitant to buy homes built using methods for which there are no qualified inspectors. Educating inspectors can actually increase the contractor’s business.

• You may get lucky and find information on how to inspect them. InterNACHI has a well-researched article on inspecting strawbale homes.

• People who build these homes are proud of them and often take photographs during construction. Try to get copies of those photographs, and a set of plans, if possible. Even better is being able to find and speak with the original builder while looking together at the photos and plans.

Ask about any unforeseen problems they had to solve. They often remember the major ones, especially if the success of their solution might not be apparent over the short term.

• Ask the local building department how they deal with homes built using this method.

• Some of these homes were sold as kits. Try to find out if the company who manufactured the kits is still in business. If they are, contact them and ask what to look for. They’ll have the same motivation as contractors to talk to you.

Contractors and sales people are so used to talking about how great their methods are that it’s sometimes difficult to get them to understand that you need to learn how these homes are most likely to fail. Even when they understand, they often just can’t bring themselves to admit to any types of failure. Sometimes, you have to talk to three or four people before you get someone who can really be helpful.

Most home buyers will know next to nothing about these homes, but they like the idea of these unusual homes, and that some types can be interesting, comfortable places to live. Sometimes, you’ll have a client who has done some research, and they may have good information, or they may know just enough to be dangerous.
The goal is for you to do enough research that you know more than your client. You want to know more than enough to be dangerous!
If your client is especially knowledgeable, they’ll appreciate the fact that you’ve taken the time to learn the basics. If your client is not especially knowledgeable, it won’t take much to make you look like an expert.
The Inspection
You may want to consider having a specialist contractor accompany you on the inspection. Remember, in addition to the unusual part of the home, there are still the typical systems -- the electrical, plumbing, heating, kitchen, interior, exterior, and so on -- that need to be inspected.
Contractors are not trained as inspectors, so, although you’ll have help with an unusual component, you still need to complete the majority of the inspection yourself.
As you move through the home, also bear in mind that the laws of physics don’t change.
Failure in a specific material will have the same look no matter what form that material is in. Rigid materials that fail by cracking will show cracks. Those that are able to bend or sag will do that when failing because materials that absorb moisture will display moisture intrusion in the same way, whether it's wet drywall, wet concrete, wet soil, etc.
CASE STUDIES
Earth Berm

 

One InterNACHI inspector was called to inspect an earth berm home, pictured above.  His first questions were:

• When was it built?

Answer: 1977.

• What is the square footage?

Answer: 2,800 square feet.

 

 

• Was it a kit or a custom?

Answer: It was a kit. The company was still in business after 32 years. This is always a good sign. It doesn’t take many building failures to put a company out of business. The fact that this company was still around meant that their designs had a good track record, and the inspector could contact them with questions. The main question? “What should I look for?”

 

• Were photographs of the original construction available?
• Were the original plans available?

Answer: Some were available. Neither the photos or plans were complete, but the plans had some of the structural pages showing cross-sections that allowed the inspector to see how the system was designed to work.

 

Although the information was limited, the inspector was able to get a feeling for the skill level of the builder and his crew by looking at the form and steel work, their equipment, and even the number of people onsite.

 

 

Once you know what basic system is being used, the shape in which it’s assembled is less important than whether the workmen were familiar with the materials, and knew how to assemble that system capably and in ways that avoided premature failure.

 

The inspector for this berm home did some additional online research, and the inspection proceeded without problems. His fee was $500, and the home took about four hours to go through.

 

Strawbale

 

Bales in place

One inspector became interested in developing methods for inspecting strawbale homes, and when he brought up the subject of the lack of inspectors and fire insurance, everyone he met on the jobsite was very helpful.  This home (pictured above) was being built in the inspector's town, so he was able to photograph details and talk to workmen at every phase.

 

Window detail

If they’re built poorly, strawbale homes can be very unhealthy places to live. Although they first became popular in the early '70s, it wasn’t until the mid- to late '90s that sound construction methods were settled on, good engineering studies were made available, and methods for building them well became better understood.

 

First coat of mud applied

Although methods still vary, tenets like “no flat roofs” are understood by anyone who has taken the time to research them.  Organizations such as the Colorado Strawbale Association are good sources of information.

 

Window finish details

This particular home (pictured above and below) had some natural limestone finishes, and it was interesting to learn more about how durable they can be, as well as the fact that the walls of strawbale homes stand up very well to fire. Most strawbale homes lost to fire burn during construction.

 

The finished exterior walls

These homes can represent high liability for inspectors. Unless you know the contractor and have a lot of faith in them, it's advisable to keep your prices high and take your time with the inspection.  To learn methods for inspecting strawbale homes, read InterNACHI's article on Strawbale Home Basics.

 

Conclusion
Although inspecting homes built using alternative methods may seem daunting at first, most homes are still built using materials with which you’ll be familiar.
Do your homework, be honest in describing your experience with any particular home type, and disclaim parts of the home that you don’t understand well enough to feel confident inspecting.

Exercise diligence, and these homes can be profitable and interesting to inspect

 

Zip Code Coverage Area:

 

95301, 93602, 93204, 93604, 93669, 93605, 93606, 93725, 93745, 93208, 93609, 95307, 93610, 93611, 93612, 93613, 93619, 93210, 93620, 95317, 93622, 93623, 93701, 93702, 93703, 93704, 93705, 93706,  93707, 93708, 93709, 93710, 93711, 93712, 93714, 93715, 93716, 93717, 93718, 93720, 93721, 93722, 93723, 93724, 93725, 93726, 93727, 93728, 93829, 03730, 93740, 93741, 93744, 93745, 93747, 93750, 93755, 93760, 93761, 93764, 93765, 93771, 93772, 93773, 93774, 93775, 93776, 93777, 93778, 93779, 93780, 93784, 93786, 93790, 93791, 93792, 93793, 93794, 93844, 93888, 93626, 95020, 95021, 95023, 95023 93230, 93232, 95324, 93628, 93234, 93630, 95328, 93631, 93242, 95333, 93245, 93246, 94550, 94551, 93635, 93636, 93637, 93638, 93639, 93725, 95338, 93640, 95340, 95341, 95343, 95344, 95348, 95350, 95351, 95352, 95353, 95354, 95355, 95356, 95357, 95358, 95397, 93642, 93643, 93645, 93644, 93648, 95363, 95365, 93651, 93653, 93654, 93667, 93274, 93275, 95380, 95381, 95382,

 

Invest in a Home Inspection - One Source Real Estate Inspection your CA InterNACHI Certified Home Inspector

http://www.onesourceinspection.com/


Buying a home can be one of the most important financial investments you will ever make. But, how do you know if the house is everything it appears to be? If the home you are about to purchase does not have the structural integrity to give you peace of mind, you may be buying into a money pit and sleepless nights. A home inspection is one of the smartest ways to educate yourself about the physical condition of a property you want to buy.

A home inspection is a visual inspection of the physical structure and mechanical condition of a home, from roof to foundation. The inspection is designed to identify problems that may exist, advise of repairs needed and, in some cases, provide preventive maintenance advice. A home inspection points out the positive aspects of a home, as well as the maintenance that will be necessary to keep it in good shape.

A home inspector may be a residential architect, structural engineer or building contractor. Currently, home inspectors are not regulated by any federal government agencies, and in most states, do not require licensing. However, structural engineers must be licensed.

It is up to the buyer to ask prospective inspectors questions about their experience and knowledge when deciding who to hire. When looking for a home inspector, the Better Business Bureau suggests the following general guidelines:

• Ask friends and acquaintances for recommendations. Check with the Better Business Bureau or your consumer protection division if you have questions.
  
  
• Look for someone who is familiar with the type of home to be inspected. Does the inspector specialize in residential or commercial property?
  
  
• Ask prospective inspectors questions about their professional training, relevant experience and/or length of time in business. Find out if the inspector belongs to a professional association, such as the American Society of Home Inspectors or the National Society of Professional Engineers. Membership in professional associations may offer added assurance of an inspector's qualifications and training.
  
  
• Look for home inspectors who are committed to avoiding conflicts of interest, who refuse to be involved in any real estate transaction or to deliberately obtain work in another field that could benefit them financially as a result of their inspection work, and who hold the safety, health and welfare of the public paramount in the performance of their professional inspection duties.
  
  
• Be present during the inspection. The majority of inspectors will allow you to tour the home with them and ask questions during or after the inspection. The inspection can last anywhere from two to five hours, depending on the size of the house.
  
  

Ask how soon after the inspection will you receive a copy of the home inspection final, written report. Carefully read your home inspection report and make a list of items that need correction; this will help you to determine your future expenditures for repairs and maintenance. The report will contain useful information that serves as a reference for you in the future. A home can not fail an inspection; understand that the home inspection report records the condition of the home, both positives and negatives.

 

Zip Code Coverage Area:

 

95301, 93602, 93204, 93604, 93669, 93605, 93606, 93725, 93745, 93208, 93609, 95307, 93610, 93611, 93612, 93613, 93619, 93210, 93620, 95317, 93622, 93623, 93701, 93702, 93703, 93704, 93705, 93706,  93707, 93708, 93709, 93710, 93711, 93712, 93714, 93715, 93716, 93717, 93718, 93720, 93721, 93722, 93723, 93724, 93725, 93726, 93727, 93728, 93829, 03730, 93740, 93741, 93744, 93745, 93747, 93750, 93755, 93760, 93761, 93764, 93765, 93771, 93772, 93773, 93774, 93775, 93776, 93777, 93778, 93779, 93780, 93784, 93786, 93790, 93791, 93792, 93793, 93794, 93844, 93888, 93626, 95020, 95021, 95023, 95023 93230, 93232, 95324, 93628, 93234, 93630, 95328, 93631, 93242, 95333, 93245, 93246, 94550, 94551, 93635, 93636, 93637, 93638, 93639, 93725, 95338, 93640, 95340, 95341, 95343, 95344, 95348, 95350, 95351, 95352, 95353, 95354, 95355, 95356, 95357, 95358, 95397, 93642, 93643, 93645, 93644, 93648, 95363, 95365, 93651, 93653, 93654, 93667, 93274, 93275, 95380, 95381, 95382,

Safety Guidelines for Home Pools - One Source Real Estate Inspection your CA InterNACHI Certified Home Inspector @ www.onesourceinspection.com

Safety Guidelines for Home Pools - http://www.onesourceinspection.com/

Swimming pools should always be happy places. Unfortunately, each year thousands of American families confront swimming pool tragedies, drownings and near-drownings of young children. At InterNACHI, we want to prevent these tragedies. These are guidelines for pool barriers that can help prevent most submersion incidents involving young children. These guidelines are not intended as the sole method to minimize pool drowning of young children, but include helpful safety tips for safer pools.

Each year, hundreds of young children die and thousands come close to death due to submersion in residential swimming pools. The Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) has estimated that each year, about 300 children under the age of 5 drown in swimming pools. Hospital emergency-room treatment is required for more than 2,000 children under 5 who were submerged in residential pools. The CPSC did an extensive study of swimming pool accidents, both fatal drownings and near-fatal submersions, in California, Arizona and Florida -- states in which home swimming pools are very popular and used during much of the year.

• In California, Arizona and Florida, drowning was the leading cause of accidental death in and around the home for children under the age of 5.
• Seventy-five percent of the children involved in swimming pool submersion or drowning accidents were between 1 and 3 years old. 
• Boys between 1 and 3 were the most likely victims of fatal drownings and near-fatal submersions in residential swimming pools. 
• Most of the victims were in the presence of one or both parents when the swimming pool accident occurred. 
• Nearly half of the child victims were last seen in the house before the pool accident occurred. In addition, 23% of the accident victims were last seen on the porch or patio, or in the yard. 
• This means that 69% of the children who became victims in swimming pool accidents were not expected to be in or at the pool, but were found drowned or submerged in the water. 
• Sixty-five percent of the accidents occurred in a pool owned by the victim’s immediate family, and 33% of the accidents occurred in pools owned by relatives or friends. 
• Fewer than 2% of the pool accidents were the result of children trespassing on property where they didn’t live or belong. 
• Seventy-seven percent of the swimming pool accident victims had been missing for five minutes or less when they were found in the pool, drowned or submerged.

The speed with which swimming pool drownings and submersions can occur is a special concern: by the time a child’s absence is noted, the child may have drowned. Anyone who has cared for a toddler knows how fast young children can move. Toddlers are inquisitive and impulsive, and lack a realistic sense of danger. These behaviors, coupled with a child’s ability to move quickly and unpredictably, make swimming pools particularly hazardous for households with young children.

 

Swimming pool drownings of young children have another particularly insidious feature: these are silent deaths. It is unlikely that splashing or screaming will occur to alert a parent or caregiver that a child is in trouble. The best way to reduce child drownings in residential pools is for pool owners to construct and maintain barriers that prevent young children from gaining access to pools. However, there are no substitutes for diligent supervision.

 

Why the Swimming Pool Guidelines Were Developed

 

Young child can get over a pool barrier if the barrier is too low, or if the barrier has handholds or footholds for a child to use for climbing. The guidelines recommend that the top of a pool barrier be at least 48 inches above grade, measured on the side of the barrier which faces away from the swimming pool. Eliminating handholds and footholds, and minimizing the size of openings in a barrier’s construction, can prevent inquisitive children from climbing pool barriers.

 

For a solid barrier, no indentations or protrusions should be present, other than normal construction tolerances and masonry joints. For a barrier (fence) made up of horizontal and vertical members, if the distance between the tops of the horizontal members is less than 45 inches, the horizontal members should be on the swimming pool-side of the fence. The spacing of the vertical members should not exceed 1-3/4 inches. This size is based on the foot-width of a young child, and is intended to reduce the potential for a child to gain a foothold. If there are any decorative cutouts in the fence, the space within the cutouts should not exceed 1-3/4 inches.

 

The definition of pool includes spas and hot tubs. The swimming pool-barrier guidelines, therefore, apply to these structures, as well as to conventional swimming pools.

 

How to Prevent a Child from Getting OVER a Pool Barrier

 

A successful pool barrier prevents a child from getting OVER, UNDER or THROUGH, and keeps the child from gaining access to the pool except when supervising adults are present.

 

The Swimming Pool-Barrier Guidelines

 

If the distance between the tops of the horizontal members is more than 45 inches, the horizontal members can be on the side of the fence facing away from the pool. The spacing between vertical members should not exceed 4 inches. This size is based on the head-breadth and chest depth of a young child, and is intended to prevent a child from passing through an opening. Again, if there are any decorative cutouts in the fence, the space within the cutouts should not exceed 1-3/4 inches.

 

For a chain-link fence, the mesh size should not exceed 1-1/4 inches square, unless slats fastened at the top or bottom of the fence are used to reduce mesh openings to no more than 1-3/4 inches.

For a fence made up of diagonal members (lattice work), the maximum opening in the lattice should not exceed 1-3/4 inches.

 

Above-ground pools should have barriers. The pool structure itself can sometimes serves as a barrier, or a barrier can be mounted on top of the pool structure. Then, there are two possible ways to prevent young children from climbing up into an above-ground pool. The steps or ladder can be designed to be secured, locked or removed to prevent access, or the steps or ladder can be surrounded by a barrier, such as those described above. For any pool barrier, the maximum clearance at the bottom of the barrier should not exceed 4 inches above grade, when the measurement is done on the side of the barrier facing away from the pool.
 
If an above-ground pool has a barrier on the top of the pool, the maximum vertical clearance between the top of the pool and the bottom of the barrier should not exceed 4 inches. Preventing a child from getting through a pool barrier can be done by restricting the sizes of openings in a barrier, and by using self-closing and self-latching gates.

To prevent a young child from getting through a fence or other barrier, all openings should be small enough so that a 4-inch diameter sphere cannot pass through. This size is based on the head- breadth and chest-depth of a young child.

 

Gates 

There are two kinds of gates which might be found on a residential property. Both can play a part in the design of a swimming pool barrier.

 

Pedestrian gates are the gates people walk through. Swimming pool barriers should be equipped with a gate or gates which restrict access to the pool. A locking device should be included in the gate's design. Gates should open out from the pool and should be self-closing and self-latching. If a gate is properly designed, even if the gate is not completely latched, a young child pushing on the gate in order to enter the pool area will at least close the gate and may actually engage the latch. When the release mechanism of the self-latching device is less than 54 inches from the bottom of the gate, the release mechanism for the gate should be at least 3 inches below the top of the gate on the side facing the pool. Placing the release mechanism at this height prevents a young child from reaching over the top of a gate and releasing the latch. Also, the gate and barrier should have no opening greater than 1/2-inch within 18 inches of the latch release mechanism. This prevents a young child from reaching through the gate and releasing the latch.

  

Other gates should be equipped with self-latching devices. The self-latching devices should be installed as described for pedestrian gates.

 

How to Prevent a Child from Getting UNDER or THROUGH a Pool Barrier 

In many homes, doors open directly onto the pool area or onto a patio which leads to the pool. In such cases, the wall of the house is an important part of the pool barrier, and passage through any doors in the house wall should be controlled by security measures. The importance of controlling a young child’s movement from the house to the pool is demonstrated by the statistics obtained during the CPSC’s study of pool incidents in California, Arizona and Florida. Almost half (46%) of the children who became victims of pool accidents were last seen in the house just before they were found in the pool.

All doors which give access to a swimming pool should be equipped with an audible alarm which sounds when the door and/or screen are opened. The alarm should sound for 30 seconds or more within seven seconds after the door is opened.  It should also be loud, at least 85 decibels, when measured 10 feet away from the alarm mechanism. The alarm sound should be distinct from other sounds in the house, such as the telephone, doorbell and smoke alarm. The alarm should have an automatic re-set feature. Because adults will want to pass through house doors in the pool barrier without setting off the alarm, the alarm should have a switch that allows adults to temporarily de-activate the alarm for up to 15 seconds. The de-activation switch could be a touch pad (keypad) or a manual switch, and should be located at least 54 inches above the threshold of the door covered by the alarm. This height was selected based on the reaching ability of young children.

Power safety covers can be installed on pools to serve as security barriers. Power safety covers should conform to the specifications in ASTM F 1346-91. This standard specifies safety performance requirements for pool covers to protect young children from drowning. Self-closing doors with self-latching devices could also be used to safeguard doors which give ready access to a swimming pool.

 

Indoor Pools

 

When a pool is located completely within a house, the walls that surround the pool should be equipped to serve as pool safety barriers. Measures recommended above where a house wall serves as part of a safety barrier also apply for all the walls surrounding an indoor pool. 

 

Guidelines

 

An outdoor swimming pool, including an in-ground, above-ground, or on-ground pool, hot tub, or spa, should be provided with a barrier which complies with the following:

 

1. The top of the barrier should be at least 48 inches above grade, measured on the side of the barrier which faces away from the swimming pool. The maximum vertical clearance between grade and the bottom of the barrier should be 4 inches measured on the side of the barrier which faces away from the swimming pool. Where the top of the pool structure is above grade, such as an above-ground pool, the barrier may be at ground level, such as the pool structure, or mounted on top of the pool structure. Where the barrier is mounted on top of the pool structure, the maximum vertical clearance between the top of the pool structure and the bottom of the barrier should be 4 inches.

 

2. Openings in the barrier should not allow passage of a 4-inch diameter sphere.

 

3. Solid barriers, which do not have openings, such as a masonry and stone wall, should not contain indentations or protrusions, except for normal construction tolerances and tooled masonry joints.

 

4. Where the barrier is composed of horizontal and vertical members, and the distance between the tops of the horizontal members is less than 45 inches, the horizontal members should be located on the swimming pool-side of the fence. Spacing between vertical members should not exceed 1-3/4 inches in width. Where there are decorative cutouts, spacing within the cutouts should not exceed 1-3/4 inches in width.

 

5. Where the barrier is composed of horizontal and vertical members, and the distance between the tops of the horizontal members is 45 inches or more, spacing between vertical members should not exceed 4 inches. Where there are decorative cutouts, spacing within the cutouts should not exceed 1-3/4 inches in width.

 

6. The maximum mesh size for chain-link fences should not exceed 1-3/4 inch square, unless the fence is provided with slats fastened at the top or the bottom which reduce the openings to no more than 1-3/4 inches.

 

7. Where the barrier is composed of diagonal members, such as a lattice fence, the maximum opening formed by the diagonal members should be no more than 1-3/4 inches.

  

8. Access gates to the pool should be equipped to accommodate a locking device. Pedestrian access gates should open outward, away from the pool, and should be self-closing and have a self-latching device. Gates other than pedestrian access gates should have a self-latching device, where the release mechanism of the self-latching device is located less than 54 inches from the bottom of the gate.

• The release mechanism should be located on the pool-side of the gate at least 3 inches below the top of the gate.
• The gate and barrier should have no opening greater than 1/2-inch within 18 inches of the release mechanism.

9. Where a wall of a dwelling serves as part of the barrier, one of the following should apply:

• All doors with direct access to the pool through that wall should be equipped with an alarm which produces an audible warning when the door and its screen, if present, are opened. The alarm should sound continuously for a minimum of 30 seconds within seven seconds after the door is opened. The alarm should have a minimum sound pressure rating of 85 dBA at 10 feet, and the sound of the alarm should be distinctive from other household sounds, such as smoke alarms, telephones and doorbells. The alarm should automatically re-set under all conditions. The alarm should be equipped with manual means, such as touchpads or switches, to temporarily de-activate the alarm for a single opening of the door from either direction. Such de-activation should last for no more than 15 seconds. The de-activation touch pads or switches should be located at least 54 inches above the threshold of the door.
• The pool should be equipped with a power safety cover which complies with ASTM F1346-91. 
• Other means of protection, such as self-closing doors with self-latching devices, are acceptable as long as the degree of protection afforded is not less than the protection afforded by the above.

10. Where an above-ground pool structure is used as a barrier, or where the barrier is mounted on top of the pool structure, and the means of access is a ladder or steps, then:

• The ladder to the pool or steps should be capable of being secured, locked or removed to prevent access.
• The ladder or steps should be surrounded by a barrier. When the ladder or steps are secured, locked, or removed, any opening created should not allow the passage of a 4-inch diameter sphere.

These guidelines are intended to provide a means of protection against potential drownings of children under 5 years of age by restricting access to residential swimming pools, spas and hot tubs.

 

Exemptions

 

A portable spa with a safety cover which complies with ASTM F1346-91 should be exempt from the guidelines presented here. Swimming pools, hot tubs, and non-portable spas with safety covers should not be exempt from these provisions

 

Zip Code Coverage Area:

 

95301, 93602, 93204, 93604, 93669, 93605, 93606, 93725, 93745, 93208, 93609, 95307, 93610, 93611, 93612, 93613, 93619, 93210, 93620, 95317, 93622, 93623, 93701, 93702, 93703, 93704, 93705, 93706,  93707, 93708, 93709, 93710, 93711, 93712, 93714, 93715, 93716, 93717, 93718, 93720, 93721, 93722, 93723, 93724, 93725, 93726, 93727, 93728, 93829, 03730, 93740, 93741, 93744, 93745, 93747, 93750, 93755, 93760, 93761, 93764, 93765, 93771, 93772, 93773, 93774, 93775, 93776, 93777, 93778, 93779, 93780, 93784, 93786, 93790, 93791, 93792, 93793, 93794, 93844, 93888, 93626, 95020, 95021, 95023, 95023 93230, 93232, 95324, 93628, 93234, 93630, 95328, 93631, 93242, 95333, 93245, 93246, 94550, 94551, 93635, 93636, 93637, 93638, 93639, 93725, 95338, 93640, 95340, 95341, 95343, 95344, 95348, 95350, 95351, 95352, 95353, 95354, 95355, 95356, 95357, 95358, 95397, 93642, 93643, 93645, 93644, 93648, 95363, 95365, 93651, 93653, 93654, 93667, 93274, 93275, 95380, 95381, 95382,