Homeowner Maintenance: Changing the HVAC Filter - One Source Real Estate Inspection your CA InterNACHI Certified Home Inspector

Homeowner Maintenance: Changing the HVAC Filter - http://www.onesourceinspection.com/

by Nick Gromicko and Kate Tarasenko

 

 

Part of responsible homeownership includes, of course, regular home maintenance.  And there are some tasks that, if deferred, can lead to a home system that’s inefficient and overworked, which can result in problems and expenses.  One such task is changing the filter of the home’s HVAC system.  It’s simple and inexpensive, and taking care of it at least every three months can mean the difference between optimum comfort and avoidable repairs.

 

What Can Go Wrong
Most homes have some sort of furnace or heat pump, and many of those homes (especially newer ones) have combined heating, ventilation and air-conditioning or HVAC systems.  Each type uses some type of air filter or screen to prevent larger airborne particles (up to 40 microns) from entering the system and clogging sensitive machinery.  A system that has a dirty filter can suffer from pressure drop, which can lead to reduced air flow, or “blow-out,” resulting in no air infiltration at all.  Any of these conditions can cause the system to work harder to keep the home warm or cool (depending on the season and the setting).  And any mechanical component that has to work harder to run efficiently puts undue stress on the whole system, which can lead to premature failure, resulting in repair or replacement. 
Also, a dirty filter that’s exposed to condensation can become damp, which can lead to mold growth that can be spread throughout the home by the HVAC system.  This can lead to serious health consequences, not to mention a compromised unit that will likely require servicing and may require replacement, depending on the severity of the moisture problem.
Types of Filters
Most HVAC and furnace filters are disposable, made of biodegradable paper or similar media, and shaped in cells, screens or fins designed to trap as much airborne debris as possible.  Filters can typically be purchased in economical multi-packs, and there are many types that will fit different models of furnace/HVAC units.  It’s important to use the appropriate filter for your unit; using the wrong filter that doesn’t fit the unit properly can create the same types of problems as having a dirty filter.  Your HVAC installer can show you where the filter goes and how to remove the old one and install a new one.  Your unit may also have an affixed label with directions for easy filter replacement.
How Often?
Your HVAC or furnace technician should service your unit once a year.  Because a furnace/HVAC unit contains moving parts, it’s important that belts are not cracked and dry, ventilation ductwork is not gapped, cracked or rusted, and components, such as coils and fans, are clog-free and adequately lubricated for unimpeded operation.  This sort of evaluation is best left to the professional, unless the homeowner has had the appropriate training.
The filter of the unit, especially if it’s an HVAC unit that will tend to get nearly year-round use, should be changed by the homeowner at least every three months, but possibly more often.

Check your filter’s condition and change it once a month if:

• You run your unit six months a year to year-round.
• You have pets.  Pet dander can become airborne and circulate through the home’s ventilation system just as typical household dust does.
• You have a large family.  More activity means more household dust, dirt and debris.
• You smoke indoors.
• You or someone in your household suffers from allergies or a respiratory condition.
• You live in a particularly windy area or experience high winds for extended periods, especially if there are no nearby shrubs or trees to provide a natural windbreak.
• You live in an area prone to or having recently experienced any wildfires.  Airborne ash outdoors will eventually find its way indoors.
• You have a fireplace that you occasionally use.
• You live on a working farm or ranch.  Dust and dirt that gets kicked up by outdoor work activity and/or large animals can be pulled into the home’s ventilation system, especially through open windows.
• You have a large garden.  Depending on its size and how often you work it, tilling soil, planting, pulling weeds, using herbicides and pesticides, and even watering mean that dirt, chemicals and condensation can be pulled into your home’s ventilation system.
• There is construction taking place around or near the home.  You may be installing a new roof or a pool, or perhaps a neighbor is building a home or addition.  Even if the activity is only temporary, dust and debris from worksites adjacent to or near the home can be sucked into the home’s ventilation system, and this increased activity can tax your HVAC system.

Change the filter immediately if:

• The filter is damaged.  Whether it happened inside the packaging or while being installed, a damaged filter that has bent fins, collapsed cells or holes will not work as well as an undamaged filter, especially if it allows system air to bypass the filter at any point. 
• The filter is damp.  A filter affected by moisture intrusion, system condensation, or even high indoor humidity can quickly become moldy and spread airborne mold spores throughout the home via the ventilation system. 
• There is evidence of microbial growth or mold on the filter.  Mold spores already infiltrating the home via the HVAC system are not only bad for the unit itself, but they can pose a health hazard for the family, ranging from an irritated respiratory system to a serious allergic reaction.  The musty smell produced by a moldy HVAC filter is also unpleasant and may take a while to completely eradicate from inside the home.  If you discover that you have moldy air filter, it’s important to have the cause investigated further.  An InterNACHI inspector or HVAC technician can help determine the problem so that it doesn’t recur.

Tips on Changing the Filter

• Turn off the unit before replacing the filter.
• Use the right filter for your unit and make sure it’s not damaged out of the package.
• Follow the directions for your unit to make sure you’re installing the filter properly.  For example, many filters use different colors for the front and back (or upstream and downstream flow) so that they’re not installed backwards.
• Make sure there aren’t any gaps around the filter frame.  If this is the case, you may have the wrong size filter, or the filter itself may be defective or damaged.
• Use a rag to clean up any residual dust before and after you replace the filter.
• Securely replace any levers, gaskets and/or seals.
• Turn the unit on and observe it while it’s operating to make sure the filter stays in place.
• Note the date of filter replacement in a convenient location for the next time you inspect it.  A filter that becomes dirty enough to change within a short period of time may indicate a problem with the unit or ventilation system, so monitoring how often the filter requires changing is important information for your technician to have.

Call a technician for servicing if:

• Your unit fails to turn back on.
• The fan is slow or makes excessive noise, or the fins are bent.
• The coils are excessively dusty or clogged.
• You notice moisture intrusion from an unknown source anywhere in the system.

Homeowners who take care of the easy task of changing their HVAC filter can help prevent system downtime and avoidable expenses, as well as keep their families living and breathing comfortably.  Your InterNACHI inspector can provide more useful tips and reminders during your annual home maintenance inspection.

 

 

Zip Code Coverage Area:

 

95301, 93602, 93204, 93604, 93669, 93605, 93606, 93725, 93745, 93208, 93609, 95307, 93610, 93611, 93612, 93613, 93619, 93210, 93620, 95317, 93622, 93623, 93701, 93702, 93703, 93704, 93705, 93706,  93707, 93708, 93709, 93710, 93711, 93712, 93714, 93715, 93716, 93717, 93718, 93720, 93721, 93722, 93723, 93724, 93725, 93726, 93727, 93728, 93829, 03730, 93740, 93741, 93744, 93745, 93747, 93750, 93755, 93760, 93761, 93764, 93765, 93771, 93772, 93773, 93774, 93775, 93776, 93777, 93778, 93779, 93780, 93784, 93786, 93790, 93791, 93792, 93793, 93794, 93844, 93888, 93626, 95020, 95021, 95023, 95023 93230, 93232, 95324, 93628, 93234, 93630, 95328, 93631, 93242, 95333, 93245, 93246, 94550, 94551, 93635, 93636, 93637, 93638, 93639, 93725, 95338, 93640, 95340, 95341, 95343, 95344, 95348, 95350, 95351, 95352, 95353, 95354, 95355, 95356, 95357, 95358, 95397, 93642, 93643, 93645, 93644, 93648, 95363, 95365, 93651, 93653, 93654, 93667, 93274, 93275, 95380, 95381, 95382,

 

Home Inspection Reports: What to Expect - One Source Real Estate Inspection your CA InterNACHI Certified Home Inspector

Home Inspection Reports: What to Expect - http://www.onesourceinspection.com/

by Nick Gromicko and Kenton Shepard

 

 

Influenced by the changes in the economic and legal environments over the past 30 years, home inspection reports have changed to accommodate increased consumer expectations, and to provide more extensive information and protection to both inspectors and their clients.

 

Development of Standards

 

Prior to the mid-1970s, inspection reports followed no standard guidelines and, for the most part, there was little or no oversight or licensure. As might be imagined, without minimum standards to follow, the quality of inspection reports varied widely, and the home inspection industry was viewed with some suspicion.

 

With the founding of the American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI) in 1976, home inspection guidelines governing inspection report content became available in the form of a Standards of Practice. Over time, a second, larger trade association, the International Association of Certified Home Inspectors (InterNACHI), came into existence, and developed its own standards.

 

InterNACHI has grown to dominate the inspection industry and, in addition to its Residential Standards of Practice, it has developed a comprehensive Standards of Practice for the Inspection of Commercial Properties.  Today, most types of inspections from mold to fire door inspections are performed in accordance with one of InterNACHI's Standards of Practice.

 

As a consumer, you should take the time to examine the Standards of Practice followed by your inspector. If he is unaffiliated with any professional inspection organization, and his reports follow no particular standards, find another inspector.

 

Generally speaking, reports should describe the major home systems, their crucial components, and their operability, especially the ones in which failure can result in dangerous or expensive-to-correct conditions. Defects should be adequately described, and the report should include recommendations.

 

Reports should also disclaim portions of the home not inspected. Since home inspections are visual inspections, the parts of the home hidden behind floor, wall and ceiling coverings should be disclaimed.

 

Home inspectors are not experts in every system of the home, but are trained to recognize conditions that require a specialist inspection.

 

Home inspections are not technically exhaustive, so the inspector will not disassemble a furnace to examine the heat exchanger closely, for example.

 

Standards of Practice are designed to identify both the requirements of a home inspection and the limitations of an inspection.

 

Checklist and Narrative Reports

 

In the early years of the home inspection industry, home inspection reports consisted of a simple checklist, or a one- or two-page narrative report.

 

Checklist reports are just that; very little is actually written. The report is a series of boxes with short descriptions after them. Descriptions are often abbreviated, and might consist of only two or three words, such as “peeling paint.” The entire checklist might only be four or five pages long. Today, some inspection legal agreements are almost that long!

 

Because of the lack of detailed information, checklist reports leave a lot open to interpretation, so that buyers, sellers, agents, contractors, attorneys and judges may each interpret the information differently, depending on their motives.

 

In the inspection business, phrases that describe conditions found during an inspection are called "narratives."  Narrative reports use reporting language that more completely describes each condition. Descriptions are not abbreviated.

 

Both checklist and narrative reports are still in use today, although many jurisdictions are now beginning to ban checklist reports because the limited information they offer has resulted in legal problems.

 

From the standpoint of liability, narrative reports are widely considered safer, since they provide more information and state it more clearly.

 

Many liability issues and problems with the inspection process are due to misunderstandings about what was to be included in the report, or about what the report says. 

 

For example, in 2002, an investor bought a 14-unit hotel in California.  The six-page narrative report mentioned that flashing where the second-story concrete walkway met the building was improperly installed, and the condition could result in wood decay. Four years later, the investor paid out almost $100,000 to demolish and replace the entire upper walkway. In some places, it was possible to push a pencil through support beams.

 

Although the inspector's report had mentioned the problem, it hadn't made clear the seriousness of the condition, or the possible consequences of ignoring it. Today, a six-page report would be considered short for a small house.

Development of Reporting Software
Years ago, when computers were expensive to buy and difficult to operate, inspection reports were written by hand. As computers became simpler to operate and more affordable, inspection software began to appear on the market.
Today, using this software, an inspector can chose from a large number of organized boilerplate narratives that s/he can edit or add to in order to accommodate local conditions, since inspectors in a hot, humid city like Tampa Bay, Florida, are likely to find types of problems different from those found by inspectors in a cold, dry climate, like Salt Lake City, Utah.
Using narrative software and checking boxes in categories that represent the home systems, an inspector can produce a very detailed report in a relatively short time.
For example, using a checklist report, an inspector finding a number of inoperable lights in a home would check a box in the "INTERIOR" section labeled something like “some lights inoperable,” and that would be the limit of the information passed on to the client.
Using inspection software, in the "INTERIOR" section of the program, an inspector might check a box labeled “some lights inoperable.”  This would cause the following narrative to appear in the "INTERIOR" section of the inspection report:

“Some light fixtures in the home appeared to be inoperable. The bulbs may be burned out, or a problem may exist with the fixtures, wiring or switches.

 

If after the bulbs are replaced, these lights still fail to respond to the switch, this condition may represent a potential fire hazard, and the Inspector recommends that an evaluation and any necessary repairs be performed by a qualified electrical contractor.”

Standard disclaimers and other information can be pre-checked to automatically appear in each report.
Narrative Content
Narratives typically consists of three parts:

1. a description of a condition of concern;
2. a sentence or paragraph describing how serious the condition is, and the potential ramifications, answering questions such as, “Is it now stable, or will the problem continue?” or “Will it burn down the house?" and “When?”; and
3. a recommendation. Recommendations may be for specific actions to be taken, or for further evaluation, but they should address problems in such a way that the reader of the report will understand how to proceed.

“Typically” is a key word here. Some narratives may simply give the ampacity of the main electrical disconnect. There is no need for more than one sentence. Different inspectors would include what they think is necessary.
Report Content
Inspection reports often begin with an informational section which gives general information about the home, such as the client’s name, the square footage, and the year the home was built.
Other information often listed outside the main body of the report, either near the beginning or near the end, are disclaimers, and sometimes a copy of the inspection agreement, and sometimes a copy of the Standards of Practice.  A page showing the inspector’s professional credentials, designations, affiliations and memberships is also often included.  And it is a good idea to include InterNACHI's Now That You've Had a Home Inspection book.
Inspection reports often include a summary report listing major problems to ensure that important issues are not missed by the reader. It's important that the reader be aware of safety issues or conditions which will be expensive to correct. With this in mind, some inspectors color-code report narratives, although many feel that color-coding exposes them to increased liability and don't do this.
Software often gives inspectors the choice of including photographs in the main body of the report, near the narrative that describes them, or photographs may be grouped together toward the beginning or end of the report.
A table of contents is usually provided.
The main body of the report may be broken down into sections according to home systems, such as "ELECTRICAL," "PLUMBING," "HEATING," etc., or it may be broken down by area of the home:  "EXTERIOR," "INTERIOR," "KITCHEN," "BEDROOMS," etc.
It often depends on how the inspector likes to work.
Sample Reports
Many inspectors have websites which include sample inspection reports for prospective clients to view. Take the time to look at them. Also often included is a page explaining the scope of the inspection. The inspection contract is usually included on the website, and it should give you a good idea of what will be included in the report.
In conclusion, for consumers to have realistic expectations about what information will be included in the home inspection report, follow these tips:

• read the Standards of Practice;
• read the Contract;
• view a sample Inspection Report; and
• talk with the inspector.

 

Zip Code Coverage Area:

 

95301, 93602, 93204, 93604, 93669, 93605, 93606, 93725, 93745, 93208, 93609, 95307, 93610, 93611, 93612, 93613, 93619, 93210, 93620, 95317, 93622, 93623, 93701, 93702, 93703, 93704, 93705, 93706,  93707, 93708, 93709, 93710, 93711, 93712, 93714, 93715, 93716, 93717, 93718, 93720, 93721, 93722, 93723, 93724, 93725, 93726, 93727, 93728, 93829, 03730, 93740, 93741, 93744, 93745, 93747, 93750, 93755, 93760, 93761, 93764, 93765, 93771, 93772, 93773, 93774, 93775, 93776, 93777, 93778, 93779, 93780, 93784, 93786, 93790, 93791, 93792, 93793, 93794, 93844, 93888, 93626, 95020, 95021, 95023, 95023 93230, 93232, 95324, 93628, 93234, 93630, 95328, 93631, 93242, 95333, 93245, 93246, 94550, 94551, 93635, 93636, 93637, 93638, 93639, 93725, 95338, 93640, 95340, 95341, 95343, 95344, 95348, 95350, 95351, 95352, 95353, 95354, 95355, 95356, 95357, 95358, 95397, 93642, 93643, 93645, 93644, 93648, 95363, 95365, 93651, 93653, 93654, 93667, 93274, 93275, 95380, 95381, 95382,

Attached Garage Fire Containment - One Source Real Estate Inspection Your CA InterNACHI Certified Home Inspector

Attached Garage Fire Containment - http://www.onesourceinspection.com/

by Nick Gromicko and Kenton Shepard

 

 

An attached garage is a garage that is physically attached to a house. Fires that begin in attached garages are more likely to spread to living areas than fires that originate in detached garages. For this reason, combined with the multitude of flammable materials commonly found in garages, attached garages should be adequately sealed from living areas. A properly sealed attached garage will ideally restrict the potential spread of fire long enough to allow the occupants time to escape the home or building.

Why are garages (both attached and detached) fire hazards?

• Oil or gasoline can drip from cars. These fluids may collect unnoticed and eventually ignite.
• Flammable liquids, such as gasoline, oil and paint, are commonly stored in garages. Some other examples are brake fluid, degreaser, motor oil, varnish, lighter fluid, and fluids containing solvents, such as paint thinner. These chemicals are flammable in their fluid form, and some may create explosive vapors.
• Heaters and boilers, which are frequently installed in garages, create sparks that can ignite fumes or fluids. Car batteries, too, will spark under certain conditions.
• Mechanical or electrical building projects are often undertaken in the garage. Fires can easily start while a careless occupant is welding near flammable materials.

Doors
The 2006 edition of the International Residential Code (IRC) states the following concerning doors that separate garages from living areas:

R309.1 Opening Penetration

Openings from a private garage directly into a room used for sleeping purposes shall not be permitted. Other openings between the garage and the residence shall be equipped with solid wood doors not less than 1-3/8” (35 mm) in thickness, solid- or honeycomb-core steel doors not less than 1-3/8” (35 mm) thick, or 20-minute fire-rated doors.

In addition, InterNACHI inspectors can check for the following while inspecting doors that separate garages from living areas:

• While not required by the IRC, it is helpful if there is at least one step leading up to the door from the garage. Gasoline fumes and other explosive gases are heavier than air, and they will accumulate at ground level. Their entry beneath a door will be slowed by an elevation increase.
• Doors should have tight seals around their joints to prevent seepage of fumes into the living areas of the house. Carbon monoxide, with the same approximate density as air (and often warmer than surrounding air), will easily rise above the base of an elevated door and leak through unsealed joints.
• Doors should be self-closing. Many homeowners find these doors inconvenient, but they are safer than doors that can be left ajar. While this requirement is no longer listed in the IRC, it is still a valuable recommendation.
• If doors have windows, the glass should be fire-rated.
• Pet doors should not be installed in fire-rated doors. Pet doors will violate the integrity of a fire barrier. 

Walls and Ceilings
The 2006 edition of the IRC states the following concerning garage walls and ceilings:

          R309.2 Separation Required

The garage shall be separated from the residence and its attic area by not less than ½-inch (12.7 mm) gypsum board applied to the garage side. Garages beneath habitable rooms shall be separated from all habitable rooms above by not less than 5/8-inch (15.9 mm) Type X gypsum board or equivalent. Where the separation is a floor-ceiling assembly, the structure supporting the separation shall also be protected by not less than ½-inch (12.7 mm) gypsum board or equivalent. Garages located less than 3 feet (914 mm) from a dwelling unit on the same lot shall be protected with not less than 1/2–inch (12.7 mm) gypsum board applied to the interior side of exterior walls that are within this area. Openings in these walls shall be regulated by Section 309.1. This provision does not apply to garage walls that are perpendicular to the adjacent dwelling unit wall.

In addition, inspectors can check for the following while inspecting walls and ceilings:

• In garages that have access to the attic, a hatch cover made from an approved, fire-rated material should protect this access at all times. Missing or opened covers should be called out, as should covers made from flammable materials, such as thin plywood. Garage attic door must be constructed such that the 45 minute rating is maintained; any drywall edges on both the hatch and the surrounding area exposed to physical damage are protected. The cover or door is installed so that it is permanent (non removable) with hardware to maintain it in a closed position with latching hardware to maintain it in a closed position. This could be accomplished by the use of spring loaded hinges, door closer, or hardware that will not allow it to be left in an open position when not in use. A single bolt type or hook and eye hardware does not provide a positive closure since these would allow the door to be left open. Likewise drywall screws are "fasteners" and not hardware so they cannot be used as the only means of keeping access doors closed.
• The living space is separated from the garage by a firewall that extends from the floor to the roof. If the ceiling material is fire-rated, the firewall can terminate at the ceiling.
• Drywall joints shall be taped or sealed. Joints shall be fitted so that the gap is no more than 1/20-inch with joints backed by either solid wood or another layer of drywall such that the joints are staggered. 

Ducts

The 2006 edition of the IRC states the following concerning ducts that penetrate garage walls and ceilings:

R309.1.1 Duct Penetration

Ducts in the garage and ducts penetrating the walls or ceilings separating the dwelling from the garage shall be constructed of a minimum No. 26 gauge (0.48 mm) steel sheet or other approved material, and shall have no openings in the garage.

Dryer exhaust ducts that penetrate garage walls are serious fire hazards. These ducts are generally made from plastic and will easily melt during a fire, creating a large breach in the firewall.

Floors

The 2006 edition of the IRC states the following concerning floors in garages:

          R309.3 Floor Surface

Garage floor surfaces shall be of approved, non-combustible material. The area of the floor used for parking of automobiles or other vehicles shall be sloped to facilitate the movement of liquids to a drain or toward the main vehicle entry doorway.

Inspectors should also check for the following:

• A curb is present along the perimeter of the garage floor. This curb is designed to prevent fluids from entering the living areas of the house. Curbs are often useful barriers for melted snow carried into the garage by automobiles, but curbs can also keep chemical spills contained in the garage.
• Water heaters should be elevated above the floor by at least 18 inches. A pilot light may ignite spilled fluid or floor-level flammable fumes if the water heater is placed at floor level.

Concerning items placed on the floor, inspectors should check for the following:

• All flammable liquids are stored in clearly labeled, self-closing containers, and in small amounts. They should be stored away from heaters, appliances, pilot lights and other sources of heat and flame.
• Propane tanks should never be stored indoors. If they catch fire, a serious explosion may result. Propane tanks are sturdy enough to be stored outdoors.
• The floor should be clear of clutter. Loose papers, matches, oily rags, and other flammable items are dangerous if they are strewn about the garage floor.

General safety tips that inspectors can pass onto their clients:

• Use light bulbs with the proper wattage.
• Do not overload electrical outlets.
• Tape down all cords and wires so they are not twisted or accidentally yanked.

In summary, attached garages should be sealed off from the living space so that fire may be contained.

 

Zip Code Coverage Area:

 

95301, 93602, 93204, 93604, 93669, 93605, 93606, 93725, 93745, 93208, 93609, 95307, 93610, 93611, 93612, 93613, 93619, 93210, 93620, 95317, 93622, 93623, 93701, 93702, 93703, 93704, 93705, 93706,  93707, 93708, 93709, 93710, 93711, 93712, 93714, 93715, 93716, 93717, 93718, 93720, 93721, 93722, 93723, 93724, 93725, 93726, 93727, 93728, 93829, 03730, 93740, 93741, 93744, 93745, 93747, 93750, 93755, 93760, 93761, 93764, 93765, 93771, 93772, 93773, 93774, 93775, 93776, 93777, 93778, 93779, 93780, 93784, 93786, 93790, 93791, 93792, 93793, 93794, 93844, 93888, 93626, 95020, 95021, 95023, 95023 93230, 93232, 95324, 93628, 93234, 93630, 95328, 93631, 93242, 95333, 93245, 93246, 94550, 94551, 93635, 93636, 93637, 93638, 93639, 93725, 95338, 93640, 95340, 95341, 95343, 95344, 95348, 95350, 95351, 95352, 95353, 95354, 95355, 95356, 95357, 95358, 95397, 93642, 93643, 93645, 93644, 93648, 95363, 95365, 93651, 93653, 93654, 93667, 93274, 93275, 95380, 95381, 95382,

 

Choosing the Right Home Inspector - One Source Real Estate Inspection your CA InterNACHI Certified Home Inspector

Choosing the Right Home Inspector - http://www.onesourceinspection.com/

Buying a home?  It is probably the most expensive purchase you will ever make.  This is no time to shop for a cheap inspection.  The cost of a home inspection is very small relative to the value of the home being inspected.  The additional cost of hiring an InterNACHI-certified inspector is almost insignificant.  

 

You have recently been crunching the numbers, negotiating offers, adding up closing costs, shopping for mortgages, and trying to get the best deals.  Do not stop now.  Do not let your real estate agent, a "patty-cake" inspector, or anyone else talk you into skimping here.  InterNACHI-certified inspectors perform the best inspections by far. 
InterNACHI-certified inspectors earn their fees many times over.  They do more, they deserve more, and -- yes -- they generally charge a little more.  Do yourself a favor... and pay a little more for the quality inspection you deserve.

Licensing of home inspectors only sets a minimum standard.  Much like being up to code, any less would be illegal.  Imaginary people, children, psychics (who claim to "sense" if a house is OK) and even pets can be home inspectors.  InterNACHI, the International Association of Certified Home Inspectors, front-ends its membership requirements. 

 

InterNACHI inspectors:

• have to pass InterNACHI's  Online Inspector Examination  every year.  (This general, not association-specific exam, is open and free to all);
• have to complete InterNACHI's online Ethics Obstacle Course. (This open-book Ethics course is open and free to all);
• have to take InterNACHI's online Standards of Practice quiz (This open-book Standards of Practice quiz is open and free to all);
• have to sign and submit an Affidavit;
• have to adhere to InterNACHI's Standards of Practice;
• have to abide by InterNACHI's Code of Ethics;
• have to continue seeking skills and education (24 hours per year), per InterNACHI's Continuing Education policy;
• have to maintain a Member Online Continuing Education Log (free), per InterNACHI's Continuing Education policy;
• have to submit four mock inspections to InterNACHI's Report Review Committee (free) before performing their first paid home inspection for a client (if the candidate has never performed a fee-paid home inspection previously);
• within 30 days of joining, have to successfully complete InterNACHI's comprehensive online Standards of Practice course (free);
• within 60 days of joining, complete InterNACHI's comprehensive online Roofing Inspection course (free), including all the quizzes within, and pass its final exam;
• within three months of membership, apply for a member photo I.D. (free);
• have to re-take and pass InterNACHI's Online Inspector Examination again, every year (free);
• have to attend at least one chapter meeting or educational seminar every two years (reasonable exceptions apply);
• have access to Inspector's Quarterly, delivered to their doorstep;
• have access to InterNACHI's free Visual Aid Inspection Frames to help them learn;
• have access to InterNACHI's free library for improving their inspection skills;
• have access to InterNACHI's message board for exchanging information and tips;
• have access to InterNACHI's "What's New" section so they can keep up with the industry;
• have access to InterNACHI's specific-topic advisory boards;
• have access to "Dear InterNACHI" for detailed advice;
• have access to a time-tested Inspection Agreement, which keeps them (and you) away from lawsuits;
• have access to InterNACHI's Report Review/Mentoring service;
• have to submit passport photos for their membership I.D.;
• have access to InterNACHI's free online inspection courses;
• have to carry E&O insurance (if their state requires it);
• have access to a real estate agent hold-harmless clause;
• have access to InterNACHI University;
• have access to the InterNACHI Mall;
• have a consumer hotline for their clients;
• have access to an Arbitration and Dispute Resolution Service; and 
• have access to a Client Satisfaction Survey.

So, the next time you book a home inspection, book with One Source Real Estate Inspection.

 

Zip Code Coverage Area:

 

95301, 93602, 93204, 93604, 93669, 93605, 93606, 93725, 93745, 93208, 93609, 95307, 93610, 93611, 93612, 93613, 93619, 93210, 93620, 95317, 93622, 93623, 93701, 93702, 93703, 93704, 93705, 93706,  93707, 93708, 93709, 93710, 93711, 93712, 93714, 93715, 93716, 93717, 93718, 93720, 93721, 93722, 93723, 93724, 93725, 93726, 93727, 93728, 93829, 03730, 93740, 93741, 93744, 93745, 93747, 93750, 93755, 93760, 93761, 93764, 93765, 93771, 93772, 93773, 93774, 93775, 93776, 93777, 93778, 93779, 93780, 93784, 93786, 93790, 93791, 93792, 93793, 93794, 93844, 93888, 93626, 95020, 95021, 95023, 95023 93230, 93232, 95324, 93628, 93234, 93630, 95328, 93631, 93242, 95333, 93245, 93246, 94550, 94551, 93635, 93636, 93637, 93638, 93639, 93725, 95338, 93640, 95340, 95341, 95343, 95344, 95348, 95350, 95351, 95352, 95353, 95354, 95355, 95356, 95357, 95358, 95397, 93642, 93643, 93645, 93644, 93648, 95363, 95365, 93651, 93653, 93654, 93667, 93274, 93275, 95380, 95381, 95382,

 

 

Building a Home - One Source Real Estate Inspection your CA InterNACHI Certified Home Inspector

Building a Home - http://www.onesourceinspection.com/

If you want to build a new home, there are things you need to know before you begin. Learn about construction standards and about buying land, so you know your rights.

 

MPS Supplementing Model Building Codes

 
The Minimum Property Standards (MPS) establish certain minimum standards for buildings constructed under HUD housing programs. This includes new single-family homes, multi-family housing and healthcare-type facilities.

 

HUD Minimum Property Standards and How They Supplement the Model Building Codes

Until the mid-1980s, HUD maintained separate Minimum Property Standards for different types of structures. Since that time, HUD has accepted the model building codes, including over 250 referenced standards and local building codes, in lieu of separate and prescriptive HUD standards. However, there is one major area of difference between the MPS and other model building codes -- durability requirements. Homes and projects financed by FHA-insured mortgages are the collateral for these loans, and their lack of durability can increase the FHA's financial risk in the event of default. More specifically, the model codes do not contain any minimum requirements for the durability of items such as doors, windows, gutters and downspouts, painting and wall coverings, kitchen cabinets and carpeting. The MPS includes minimum standards for these, and other items, to ensure that the value of an FHA-insured home is not reduced by the deterioration of these components.

 

HUD Field Office Acceptance for Areas Without Building Codes

 
HUD requires that each property insured with an FHA mortgage meet one of the nationally recognized building codes or a state or local building code based on a nationally recognized building code. In areas where such state or local codes are used, HUD determines if the state or local code is comparable to the model building code. There are also areas of the United States that do not have building codes. If no state or local building code has been adopted, the appropriate HUD Field Office will specify a building code that is comparable to one of the nationally recognized model building codes.

Interstate Land Sales

 
The Interstate Land Sales program protects consumers from fraud and abuse in the sale or lease of land. In 1968, Congress enacted the Interstate Land Sales Full Disclosure Act, which is patterned after the Securities Law of 1933, and requires land developers to register subdivisions of 100 or more non-exempt lots with HUD, and to provide each purchaser with a disclosure document called a property report. The property report contains relevant information about the subdivision and must be delivered to each purchaser before the signing of the contract or agreement.

 

Buying Lots from Developers

Be well informed when shopping for land. Lots may be marketed as sites for future retirement homes, for second home locations, or for recreational or campsite use. However, be wary of any investment aspect that may be stressed by sales personnel. If you plan to purchase a lot which is offered by promotional land sales, take plenty of time before coming to a decision. Before signing a purchase agreement, a contract, or a check: 

• know your rights as a buyer;
• know something about the developer;
• know the facts about the development and the lot you plan to buy; and 
• know what you are doing when you encounter high-pressure sales campaigns.

Generally, if the company from which you plan to buy is offering 100 or more unimproved lots for sale or lease through the mail or by means of interstate commerce, it may be required to register with the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD). This means that the company must file with HUD and provide prospective buyers with a property report containing detailed information about the property. Failure to do this may be a violation of federal law, punishable by up to five years in prison, a $10,000 fine, or both. The information filed by the developer and retained by HUD must contain such items as these:

• a copy of the corporate charter and financial statement;
• information about the land, including title policy or attorney's title opinion, and copies of the deed and mortgages; 
• information on local ordinances, health regulations, etc.; 
• information about facilities available in the area, such as schools, hospitals and transportation systems; 
• information about availability of utilities and water, and plans for sewage disposal; 
• development plans for the property, including information on roads, streets and recreational facilities; and 
• supporting documents, such as maps, plans and letters from suppliers of water and sewer facilities.

The company filing this information must swear and affirm that it is correct and complete, and an appropriate fee must accompany submission. The information is retained by HUD and is available for public inspection. The property report, which is also prepared by the developer, goes to the buyer. The law requires the seller to give the report to a prospective lot purchaser prior to the time a purchase agreement is signed. Ask for it. The seller is also required to have the buyer sign a receipt acknowledging receipt of the property report. Do not sign the receipt unless you have actually received the property report. Check the developer’s property report before buying. This is the kind of information you will find in a property report:

• distances to nearby communities over paved and unpaved roads;
• existence of mortgages or liens on the property;
• whether contract payments are placed in escrow; 
• availability and location of recreational facilities; 
• availability of sewer and water service or septic tanks and wells; 
• present and proposed utility services and charges; 
• the number of homes currently occupied; 
• soil and foundation conditions which could cause problems in construction or in using septic tanks; and 
• the type of title the buyer may receive and when it should be received.

Read the Property Report Before Signing Anything

 
This report is prepared and issued by the developer of this subdivision. It is not prepared or issued by the federal government. Federal law requires that you receive this report prior to signing a contract or agreement to buy or lease a lot in this subdivision. However, no federal agency has judged the merits or value of the property. If you received the report prior to signing a contract or agreement, you may cancel your contract or agreement by giving notice to the seller any time before midnight of the seventh day following the signing of the contract or agreement. If you did not receive this report before you signed a contract or agreement, you may cancel the contract or agreement any time within two years from the date of signing.

Your Contract Rights

 
If the lot you are buying is subject to the jurisdiction of the Interstate Land Sales Full Disclosure Act, the contract or purchase agreement must inform you of certain rights given to buyers by that Act. The contract should state that the buyer has a "cooling-off" period of seven days (or longer, if provided by state law) following the day that the contract is signed to cancel the contract, for any reason, by notice to the seller, and get his or her money back. Furthermore, unless the contract states that the seller will give the buyer a warranty deed, within 180 days after the contract is signed, the buyer has a right to cancel the contract for up to two years from the day that the contract is signed, unless the contract contains the following provisions: 

• a clear description of the lot so that the buyer may record the contract with the proper county authority;
• the right of the buyer to a notice of any default (by the buyer), and at least 20 days after receipt of that notice to cure or remedy the default; 
• a limitation on the amount of money the seller may keep as liquidated damages, of 15% of the principal paid by the buyer (exclusive of interest) or the seller's actual damages, whichever is greater.

Contract Rights Concerning Property Reports

It has always been the law that if the developer has an obligation to register with the Interstate Land Sales Division, the developer or sales agent must give the buyer a copy of the current property report before the buyer signs a contract. Otherwise, the buyer has up to two years to cancel the contract and get their money back. That fact must also be clearly set forth in all contracts. You may have the right to void the contract if the subdivision has not been registered with HUD, or you were not given a property report. Furthermore, if the developer has represented that it will provide or complete roads, water, sewer, gas, electricity or recreational facilities in its property report, in its advertising, or in its sales promotions, the developer must obligate itself to do so in the contract, clearly and conditionally (except for acts of nature or impossibility of performance). In addition to the right to a full disclosure of information about the lot, the prospective buyer may have the right to void the contract and receive a refund of their money if the developer has failed to register the subdivision with HUD or has failed to supply the purchaser with a property report. While a purchaser may have the right to void the contract with the developer under these conditions, the purchaser may still be liable for contract payments to a third party if that contract has been assigned to a financing institution or some similar entity. The registration is retained by HUD and is available for public inspection. If the property report contains misstatements of fact, if there are omissions, if fraudulent sales practices are used, or if other provisions of the law have been violated, the purchaser may also sue to recover damages and actual costs and expenses in court against the developer. However, depending on when your sale occurred, you may be barred from taking further action due to the Act's statute of limitations. Your attorney can advise you further on this matter.

 

"Cooling-Off" Period

 
Even if you received the property report prior to the time of your signing of the contract or agreement, you have the right to revoke the contract or agreement by notice to the seller until midnight of the seventh day following the signing of the contract. You should contact the developer, preferably in writing, if you wish to revoke your contract and receive a refund of any money paid to date. Even if the property report is delivered to you before you sign a sales agreement, the law gives you a "cooling-off " period. This right cannot be waived.

 

A Word About the Interstate Land Sales Division

The HUD unit which administers the law, examines the developer's registration statement, and registers the land sales operator is the Interstate Land Sales Division. Except for disclosure purposes, this office is not concerned with zoning or land-use planning, and has no control over the quality of the subdivision. It does not dictate what land can be sold, to whom, or at what price. It cannot act as a purchaser's attorney. But it will help purchasers secure the rights given to them by the Interstate Land Sales Full Disclosure Act. HUD is authorized by law to conduct investigations and public hearings, to subpoena witnesses and secure evidence, and to seek court injunctions to prevent violations of the law. If necessary, HUD may seek criminal indictments. HUD is authorized by law to conduct investigations and, if necessary, seek criminal indictments.

 

Exemptions from the Law 

The prospective buyer should be aware that not all promotional land sales operations are covered by the law. If the land sales program is exempt, no registration is required by HUD, and there will be no property report. Here are some of the specific situations for which the statute allows exemptions without review by HUD, including the sale of:

• tracts of fewer than 100 lots which are not otherwise exempt;
• lots in a subdivision where every lot is 20 acres or more in size;
• lots upon which a residential, commercial or industrial building has been erected, or where a sales contract obligates the seller to build one within two years; 
• certain lots which are sold only to residents of the state or metropolitan area in which the subdivision is located; 
• certain low-volume sales operations (no more than 12 lots a year); 
• certain lots that meet certain local codes and standards and are zoned for single-family residences or are limited to single-family residences by enforceable codes and restrictions; and 
• certain lots, contained in multiple sites of fewer than 100 lots each, offered pursuant to a common promotional plan.

Other exemptions are available which are not listed above. If you have reason to believe that your sale is not exempt and may still be covered by the law, contact the Interstate Land Sales Division.

 

Know the Developer

 
Knowing your rights under the law is the first step in making a sensible land purchase. To exercise those rights, you also must know something about the honesty and reliability of the developer who offers the subdivision that interests you. Don’t fail to ask questions. Whether you are contacted by a sales agent on the phone or by mail, at a promotional luncheon or dinner, in a sales booth at a shopping center, or in the course of your own inspection of the subdivision, make it your business to find out all you can about the company and the property. In addition, get any verbal promises or representations in writing. Don’t fail to ask questions. If you are seriously interested in buying a lot, ask if the company is registered with HUD or is entitled to an exemption. Request a copy of the property report and take the time to study it carefully and thoroughly. If you still have unanswered questions, delay any commitment until you have investigated. Discuss current prices in the area with local independent brokers. Talk to other people who have purchased lots. A local Chamber of Commerce, Better Business Bureau, or consumer protection group may have information about the seller's reputation. Inquire through county or municipal authorities about local ordinances or regulations affecting properties similar to that which you plan to buy. Don't be high-pressured by sales agents.

 

Know the Facts About the Lot

 
Once you have decided on an appealing subdivision, inspect the property. Don't buy "sight unseen." Better yet, hire an InterNACHI inspector to perform a thorough property inspection. Also, check the developer's plans for the project and know what you are getting with your lot purchase. It's a good idea to make a list of the facts you will need to know. Some of the questions you should be asking, and answering, are these:  

• How large will the development become?
• What zoning controls are specified?
• What amenities are promised?
• What provision has the developer made to assure construction and maintenance? 
• What are the provisions for sewer and water service?
• Are all of the promised facilities and utilities in the contract? 
• Will there be access roads or streets to your property, and how will they be surfaced? Who maintains them? How much will they cost? 
• Will you have clear title to the property? What liens, reservations or encumbrances exist? 
• Will you receive a deed upon purchase or a recordable sales contract? 
• What happens to your payments? Are they placed in a special escrow account to pay for the property, or are they spent at once by the developer? 
• If the developer defaults on the mortgage or goes bankrupt, could you lose your lot and investment to date to satisfy a claim against the development? 
• What happens when the developer moves out? Is there a homeowners' association to take over community management? 
• Are there restrictions against using the lot for a campsite until you are ready to build? 
• Are there any annual maintenance fees or special assessments required of property owners?

This is a partial list of points to consider before you commit your money or your signature.
 

Know What You are Doing

Interstate land sales promotions often are conducted in a high-pressure atmosphere that sweeps unsophisticated buyers along. Before they are aware that they have made a commitment, these buyers may have signed a sales contract and started to make payments on a lot. They may be delighted with the selection made, but, if not, it may be too late for a change of mind.

 

Nine Dishonest Sales Practices

 
Here are some of the practices avoided by reliable sales operations. Watch out for them and exercise sales resistance if you suspect they are occurring:

 

1. concealing or misrepresenting facts about current and resale value. Sales agents may present general facts about the area’s population growth, industrial or residential development, and real estate price levels as if they apply to your specific lot. You may be encouraged to believe that your piece of land represents an investment which will increase in value as regional development occurs. A sales agent may tell you that the developer will re-sell the lot, if you request. This promise may not be kept. Future resale is difficult or impossible in many promotional developments because much of your purchase price -- sometimes as much as 40% -- has gone for an intensive advertising campaign and commissions for sales agents. You are already paying a top price and it is unlikely that anyone else would pay you more than you are paying the developer. You may even have to sell for less than the price you originally paid for the lot. Sales promotions often are conducted in a high-pressure atmosphere. Furthermore, when you attempt to sell your lot, you are in competition with the developer, who probably holds extensive, unsold acreage in the same subdivision. In most areas, real estate brokers find it impractical to undertake the sale of lots in subdivisions and will not accept such listings. It is unlikely that the lot you purchase through interstate land sales represents an investment, in the view of professional land investors. Remember, the elements of value of a piece of land are its usefulness, the supply, the demand, and the buyer's ability to re-sell it. The Urban Land Institute estimates that land must double in value every five years to justify holding it as an investment. In some areas, the cost of holding the land, such as taxes and other assessments, can run as high as 11% a year.

 

2. failure to honor refund promises or agreements. Some sales promotions conducted by mail, email or long-distance telephone include the offer of a refund if the property has been misrepresented, or if the customer inspects the land within a certain period of time and decides not to buy. When the customers request the refund, s/he may encounter arguments about the terms of the agreement. The company may even accuse its own agent of having made a money-back guarantee without the consent or knowledge of the developer. Sometimes, the promised refund is made, but only after a long delay.

 

3. misrepresentation of facts about the subdivision. This is where the property report offers an added measure of protection. A sales agent may offer false or incomplete information relating to either a distant subdivision or one which you visit. Misrepresentations often relate to matters such as the legal title, claims against it, latent dangers (such as swamps or cliffs), unusual physical features (such as poor drainage), restrictions on use, or lack of necessary facilities and utilities. Read the property report carefully with an eye to omissions, generalizations, or unproved statements that may tend to mislead you. If you are concerned about overlooking something important, discuss the report and the contract with a lawyer who understands real estate matters. The developer also may use advertisements that imply that certain facilities and amenities are currently available when they are not. Read the property report to determine whether these facilities and amenities are actually completed, or proposed to be completed in the future. If the company advertises sales on credit terms, the Truth in Lending Act requires the sales contract to fully set forth all terms of financing. This information must include total cost, simple annual interest, and total finance charges.

 

4. failure to develop the subdivision as planned. Many buyers rely upon the developer's contractual agreement or a verbal promise to develop the subdivision in a certain way. The promised attractions that influenced your purchase (golf course, marina, swimming pool, etc.) may never materialize after you become an owner. If they are provided, it may be only after a long delay. If you are planning on immediate vacation use of the property, or are working toward a specific retirement date, you may find that the special features promised of the development are not available when you need them.

 

5. failure to deliver deeds and/or title insurance policies. Documents relating to the sales transaction may not be delivered as promised. Some sales in the promotional land development industry are made by contract for a deed to be delivered when the purchaser makes the last payment under the terms of the contract. A dishonest developer may fail to deliver the deed, or deliver it only after a long delay. A sales agent may offer false or incomplete information.

 

6. abusive treatment and high-pressure sales tactics. Some sales agents drive prospective customers around a subdivision in automobiles equipped with citizen band radios which provide a running commentary on lot sales in progress. The customer may be misled by this and other sales techniques to believe that desirable lots are selling rapidly and that a hurried choice must be made. Hurrying the buyers into a purchase they may later regret is only one ploy of high-pressure sales agents. More offensive is abusive language used to embarrass customers who delay an immediate decision to buy. In some instances, hesitant buyers have been isolated in remote or unfamiliar places where transportation is controlled by the sales agent or the agent's organization.

 

7. failure to make good on sales inducements. Free vacations, gifts, savings bonds, trading stamps, and other promised inducements are used to lure people to sales presentations or to development sites. These promised treats may never materialize. Sometimes, special conditions are attached to the lure, or a customer is advised that gifts go only to lot purchasers. A "free vacation" may be the means of delivering the prospective buyer to a battery of high-pressure sales agents in a distant place. The promised attractions may never materialize.

 

8. "bait and switch" tactics. Lots are frequently advertised at extremely low prices. When prospective buyers appear, they are told that the low-priced lots are all sold and then are pressured to buy one that is much more expensive. If the cheaper lot is available, it may be located on the side of a cliff or in another inaccessible location. If accessible, it may be much too small for a building or have other undesirable features. The buyers may be lured to the property with a certificate entitling them to a "free" lot. Often, the certificate bears a face value of $500 to $1,000. If the buyers attempt to cash it in, the amount is simply included in the regular price (often inflated) of the lot they choose. Often, this so-called "bait and switch" technique has a delayed fuse. Buyers who purchase an unseen lot for later retirement may be unpleasantly surprised when they visit the development. The lot they have paid for may be remote from other homes, shopping and medical facilities. It may be insufficiently developed for use. When the buyers complain, sales personnel attempt to switch them to a more expensive lot, applying the money paid for the original lot to an inflated price for the new one, and tacking on additional financing charges. If the unhappy purchasers lack sufficient funds to accept this alternative, they are left with an unusable, unmarketable first choice. 

 

9. failure to grant rights under the Interstate Land Sales Full Disclosure Act. Purchasers may not be given copies of the property report before they sign a sales contract. Some sales agents withhold this detailed statement until customers choose a specific lot. Sometimes, the buyers receive the report in a mass of promotional materials and legal documents. Unaware that the report is in their possession, they fail to read and understand it before signing a sales contract.

 

 

Zip Code Coverage Area:

 

95301, 93602, 93204, 93604, 93669, 93605, 93606, 93725, 93745, 93208, 93609, 95307, 93610, 93611, 93612, 93613, 93619, 93210, 93620, 95317, 93622, 93623, 93701, 93702, 93703, 93704, 93705, 93706,  93707, 93708, 93709, 93710, 93711, 93712, 93714, 93715, 93716, 93717, 93718, 93720, 93721, 93722, 93723, 93724, 93725, 93726, 93727, 93728, 93829, 03730, 93740, 93741, 93744, 93745, 93747, 93750, 93755, 93760, 93761, 93764, 93765, 93771, 93772, 93773, 93774, 93775, 93776, 93777, 93778, 93779, 93780, 93784, 93786, 93790, 93791, 93792, 93793, 93794, 93844, 93888, 93626, 95020, 95021, 95023, 95023 93230, 93232, 95324, 93628, 93234, 93630, 95328, 93631, 93242, 95333, 93245, 93246, 94550, 94551, 93635, 93636, 93637, 93638, 93639, 93725, 95338, 93640, 95340, 95341, 95343, 95344, 95348, 95350, 95351, 95352, 95353, 95354, 95355, 95356, 95357, 95358, 95397, 93642, 93643, 93645, 93644, 93648, 95363, 95365, 93651, 93653, 93654, 93667, 93274, 93275, 95380, 95381, 95382,

 

Household and Environmental Hazards - One Source Real Estate Inspection your CA InterNACHI Certified Home Inspector

Household and Environmental Hazards - http://www.onesourceinspection.com/

This list of terms covers most of the common household dangers likely to be encountered by InterNACHI inspectors.

 

• algae: microorganisms that may grow to colonies in damp environments, including certain rooftops. They can discolor shingles; often described as fungus.
• alligatoring:  a condition of paint or aged asphalt brought about by the loss of volatile oils, and the oxidation caused by solar radiation; causes a coarse, "checking" pattern characterized by slipping of the new paint coating over the old coating to the extent that the old coating can be seen through the fissures. "Alligatoring" produces a pattern of cracks resembling an alligator hide, and is ultimately the result of the limited tolerance of paint or asphalt to thermal expansion and contraction.
• asbestos:  a common form of magnesium silicate which was commonly used in various construction products because of its stability and resistance to fire. Asbestos exposure, caused by inhaling loose asbestos fibers, is associated with various forms of lung disease. Asbestos is the name given to certain inorganic minerals when they occur in fibrous form. Though fire-resistant, its extremely fine fibers are easily inhaled, and exposure to them over a period of years has been linked to cancers of the lung and the lung-cavity lining, and to asbestosis, a severe lung impairment. Asbestos is a naturally occurring mineral fiber sometimes found in older homes. It is hazardous to your health when a possibility exists of exposure to inhalable fibers. Homeowners should be alert for friable (readily crumbled or brittle) asbestos, and always seek professional advice in dealing with it.
• bleeding:  the migration of a liquid to the surface of a component or into/onto an adjacent material.
• blister:  an enclosed, raised spot evident on the surface of a building. They are mainly caused by the expansion of trapped air, water vapor, moisture or other gases.
• blue stain:  a bluish or grayish discoloration of the sapwood caused the growth of certain mold-like fungi on the surface and in the interior of a piece, made possible by the same conditions that favor the growth of other fungi.
• bubbling:  in glazing, open or closed pockets in a sealant caused by the release, production or expansion of gasses.
• buckling:  the bending of a building material as a result of wear and tear, or contact with a substance such as water.
• carbon monoxide (CO):  a colorless, odorless, highly poisonous gas formed by the incomplete combustion of carbon.
• cohesive failure:  internal splitting of a compound resulting from over-stressing of the compound.
• condensation:  water condensing on walls, ceiling and pipes; normal in areas of high humidity, usually controlled by ventilation or a dehumidifier.
• corrosion:  the deterioration of metal by chemical or electrochemical reaction resulting from exposure to weathering, moisture, chemicals and other agents and media.
• crater:  pit in the surface of concrete resulting from cracking of the mortar due to expansive forces associated with a particle of unsound aggregate or a contaminating material, such as wood or glass.
• crazing:  a series of hairline cracks in the surface of weathered materials, having a web-like appearance; also, hairline cracks in pre-finished metals caused by bending or forming; see brake metal.
• cupping:  a type of warping that causes boards to curl up at their edges.
• damp-proofing:  a process used on concrete, masonry and stone surfaces to repel water, the main purpose of which is to prevent the coated surface from absorbing rainwater while still permitting moisture vapor to escape from the structure. Moisture vapor readily penetrates coatings of this type. Damp-proofing generally applies to surfaces above grade; waterproofing generally applies to surfaces below grade.
• decay:  disintegration of wood and other substances through the action of fungi.
• distortion:  alteration of viewed images caused by variations in glass flatness or in homogeneous portions within the glass; an inherent characteristic of heat-treated glass.
• drippage:  bitumen material that drips through roof deck joints, or over the edge of a roof deck.
• dry rot:  see fungal wood rot.
• feathering strips:  tapered wood filler strips placed along the butt edges of old wood shingles to create a level surface when re-roofing over existing wood shingle roofs; aso called "horsefeathers."
• fungal wood rot:  a common wood-destroying organism which develops when wood-containing material is exposed to moisture and poor air circulation for a long period of time (six-plus months); often and incorrectly referred to as "dry rot."
• fungi (wood):  microscopic plants that live in damp wood and cause mold, stain and decay.
• incompatibility:  descriptive of two or more materials which are not suitable to be used together.
• lead-based paint:  Lead is a highly toxic metal that was used for many years in products found in and around homes. Lead may cause a range of health problems, from behavioral problems and learning disabilities, to seizures and death. Children age 6 and under are most at risk because their bodies are growing quickly.
• migration:  spreading or creeping of a constituent of a compound onto/into adjacent surfaces; see bleeding.
• mud cracks:  cracks developing from the normal shrinkage of an emulsion coating when applied too heavily.
• mushroom:  an unacceptable occurrence when the top of a caisson concrete pier spreads out and hardens to become wider than the foundation's wall thickness.
• photo-oxidation:  oxidation caused by rays of the sun.
• ponding:  a condition where water stands on a roof for prolonged periods due to poor drainage and/or deflection of the deck.
• pop-out:  see stucco pop-out.
• radon:  a naturally-occurring, radioactive gas which is heavier than air and is common in many parts of the country. Radon gas exposure is associated with lung cancer. Mitigation measures may involve crawlspace and basement venting and various forms of vapor barriers.
• scrap out:  the removal of all drywall material and debris after the home is "hung out" (installed) with drywall.
• seasoning:  removing moisture from green wood in order to improve its serviceability.
• settlement:  shifts in a structure, usually caused by freeze-thaw cycles underground.
• sludge:  term for the waste material found in sump pump pits, septic systems and gutters.
• spalling:  the chipping and flaking of concrete, bricks and other masonry where improper drainage and venting and freeze/thaw cycling exists.
• splitting:  the formation of long cracks completely through a membrane. Splits are frequently associated with lack of allowance for expansion stresses. They can also be a result of deck deflection and a change in deck direction.
• ultraviolet degradation:  a reduction in certain performance limits caused by exposure to ultraviolet light.
• UV rays:  ultraviolet rays from the sun.
• veining:  in roofing, the characteristic lines or "stretch marks" which develop during the aging process of soft bitumens.
• warping:  any distortion in a material.
• water vapor:  moisture existing as a gas in air.

 

InterNACHI inspectors are trained in detecting these and other common household dangers.

From Household and Environmental Hazards - InterNACHI http://www.nachi.org/hazards.htm#ixzz2WV4vf8Ix

 

Zip Code Coverage Area:

 

95301, 93602, 93204, 93604, 93669, 93605, 93606, 93725, 93745, 93208, 93609, 95307, 93610, 93611, 93612, 93613, 93619, 93210, 93620, 95317, 93622, 93623, 93701, 93702, 93703, 93704, 93705, 93706,  93707, 93708, 93709, 93710, 93711, 93712, 93714, 93715, 93716, 93717, 93718, 93720, 93721, 93722, 93723, 93724, 93725, 93726, 93727, 93728, 93829, 03730, 93740, 93741, 93744, 93745, 93747, 93750, 93755, 93760, 93761, 93764, 93765, 93771, 93772, 93773, 93774, 93775, 93776, 93777, 93778, 93779, 93780, 93784, 93786, 93790, 93791, 93792, 93793, 93794, 93844, 93888, 93626, 95020, 95021, 95023, 95023 93230, 93232, 95324, 93628, 93234, 93630, 95328, 93631, 93242, 95333, 93245, 93246, 94550, 94551, 93635, 93636, 93637, 93638, 93639, 93725, 95338, 93640, 95340, 95341, 95343, 95344, 95348, 95350, 95351, 95352, 95353, 95354, 95355, 95356, 95357, 95358, 95397, 93642, 93643, 93645, 93644, 93648, 95363, 95365, 93651, 93653, 93654, 93667, 93274, 93275, 95380, 95381, 95382,